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Akai 4000DB

On the head cleaning front, relative to Reel to reels I have seen mention Nu-Finish car polish and PEEK METAL POLISH. Is Brasso acceptable ? What properties do these polishes need to have ?
 
I have a Brenell direct drive R to R, it came out of the BBC studios in Leeds some years ago and I bought it from a chap with a houseful. I ought to recomission it. I also have an Akai 1721 (?) that's been languishing in a mate's spare room for 10 years, that too I should recover and get running. The only thing is that the Akai is buried behind several tons of his dead hifi gear that will never see the light of day, and it would take days to exhume it.
 
On the head cleaning front, relative to Reel to reels I have seen mention Nu-Finish car polish and PEEK METAL POLISH. Is Brasso acceptable ? What properties do these polishes need to have ?

I've not heard of this. I thought all one was aiming at when cleaning heads was to remove any nasty brown tape-shed that had stuck there. In the case of my 4000DB, which was pretty caked, it didn't need more than some time and patience with some cotton buds and isopropyl alcohol. That got the heads clean, using a demagnetiser later seemed to get them working properly. I'd have thought using an abrasve cleaner would only escalate head-wear.
 
After thorough cleaning of the tape heads and tape path with IPA, polishing the tape heads & guides with nu finish or Peak polish does seem to reduce surface resistance in the tape path, I got a lower W&F reading from a test before and after
There was also and audible improvement after polishing so it seems to improve tape contact with the head.
Don't get polish on the pinch roller or capstan though

Alan
 
dioxit all switches/sockets/plugs. look carefully on the pots there is usually a hole or slot you can get in.
 
I've had this arrive today - a 40 year old tape deck ruined in a few seconds by shoddy packing by the seller - no bubble wrap or anything and the mains plug was squashed against the corner that got damaged. Nakamichi made decks for Goodmans - I'm not sure this is one of them and there is very little info about it on the web. The transport, components and dolby implementation are dofferent to that of the of the Nakamichi-made Goodmans SCD100, this is an SCD110.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/102ncQmsRLMUHZ9aCVyqHntT7F1sz3snHNA/view?usp=sharing
 
That's mains plugs for you! The amount of kid I've seen destroyed by the damn things; vintage synths, classic audio etc etc. I always ask that they be removed.
 
I've had this arrive today - a 40 year old tape deck ruined in a few seconds by shoddy packing by the seller - no bubble wrap or anything and the mains plug was squashed against the corner that got damaged. Nakamichi made decks for Goodmans - I'm not sure this is one of them and there is very little info about it on the web. The transport, components and dolby implementation are dofferent to that of the of the Nakamichi-made Goodmans SCD100, this is an SCD110.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/102ncQmsRLMUHZ9aCVyqHntT7F1sz3snHNA/view?usp=sharing

That's mains plugs for you! The amount of kid I've seen destroyed by the damn things; vintage synths, classic audio etc etc. I always ask that they be removed.

That scared me :) Did the Aiwa make it over OK?

Richard
 
That scared me :) Did the Aiwa make it over OK?

Took a ding to the back panel unfortunately (f***ing mains plug again!), I've not seen it myself, but df reckons he's straightened it out and it didn't crack the curcuit board.
 
Argh - sorry! I really thought the fact the Aiwa's have the fake socket on the back panel would protect it...
 
It straightened out fine, just a very small scratch on the back now. I will be posting it out tomorrow. Sonically and mechanically it's now as close to new as you can get for a 25 year old component. I will post it to you tomorrow Tony. Regards, David.
 
It straightened out fine, just a very small scratch on the back now. I will be posting it out tomorrow. Sonically and mechanically it's now as close to new as you can get for a 25 year old component. I will post it to you tomorrow Tony. Regards, David.

Just belts & a clean/re-lube?

Thanks Dave. Please take the plug off!

No comment :)
 
Just belts & a clean/re-lube?

Also idler tyre and pinch roller refurb, take up and supply tension check, Azimuth and playback level adjust, bias trap, bias and record level adjustment, W+F check and speed adjust, and a 4 hour soak test, then re-check/set speed :)
 
Ha-ha - so, basically, a somewhat more professional job than if I had done it :) Nice one.
 
Also idler tyre and pinch roller refurb, take up and supply tension check, Azimuth and playback level adjust, bias trap, bias and record level adjustment, W+F check and speed adjust, and a 4 hour soak test, then re-check/set speed :)

Interested to know how you restore idlers and pinch rollers.

If I can't replace them and they look reasonable (just shiny or a little hard) I use very fine grade wet and dry to 'matt' the surface and then apply a liberal amount of Caig rubber rejuvenate.
 
Small point, I seem to remember that the Perspex cover was an optional extra, not supplied with the machine. I still have a 4000DS mk. 2 and a GX4000 DB. Bought the covers separately for both. Akai were near Heathrow then.
 
Interested to know how you restore idlers and pinch rollers.

If I can't replace them and they look reasonable (just shiny or a little hard) I use very fine grade wet and dry to 'matt' the surface and then apply a liberal amount of Caig rubber rejuvenate.

Hi, I do something very similar but I tend not to use wet and dry on pinch rollers, I use Platenclene (for printer rollers) as a rejuvenator.
 


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