Recent content by Sparts155

Great, thanks. I've managed to tweak up the output to 1.4V. Onto testing!

Thanks very much for the guide David. I have a Karik with the laser outputting 1.1V p-p, but I am unable to understand how I adjust the laser output current with the laser in situ? I can't access the Pot, do I have to remove the laser assembly? Thanks.

i'd be interested to hear how it sounds in the Buffalo. Despite being "soft", does it maintain detail?

Cool. In what ways did you like these amps better? Not looking to dispute your findings, just curious.

An expensive bunch of components! Not far of from mine, although I don't have as many Z foils, and use polystyrenes for the small signal caps. I'm doing some mods to the regulators too, which I may report on if worthwhile.

Ha, yeah he did, but got the error of his ways explained to him by someone else. I just ignored him. It's prefectly safe as long as there is no DC at the input, plus the board has got a DC protection relay. So you are using Z foils? I recently fitted one for the 12k feedback resistor, a...

What didn't you like about the MyRef at first? What did you do to improve it? Re. bypassing, I mean take it out of circuit completely with a wire link. It's no longer needed if you use an opamp that has good DC offset performance, and you get a nice performance boost. The big change though...

Interesting to me! Just couldn't figure out what the first amp was. I look forward to your comparison with the MyRef, but I'd be surprised if you found it as good. By the way, I highly recommend swapping the LM318 in the MyRef for a ADA4627, then bypassing C9 the feedback cap - it's a big jump...

1uf will give you a -3dB of 160Hz. Well below the treble, so shouldn't affect your crossover.

As it uses a 4558 op-amp, it won't sound anything special. First thing I'd do would be to upgrade to a better part. As the impedances surrounding the op-amp are rather high, I'd use a FET input part, such as OPA1642. ARCAM have used Wolfson DACs in the past, so that would be my guess.

The topology is a fairly standard 3rd order filter/ balanced to singled ended converter. It'll be used with a delta sigma DAC, but it's impossible to tell which from the diagram.

I used a a Mundorf to replace a still fairly new Panasonic cap in a DAC. It was a surprisingly large upgrade in clarity and bass depth.

This is what sold me on using the JLSounds unit. further, I powered the clocks/ with a 3.3V battery which brought further improvements. I suspect power cleanliness is the most important factor/whatever board you use. Don't rely on USB power for sensitive circuitry.

As frequency drops, the voltage across the cap rises, leading to the potential at least for distortion. A larger cap will have less voltage drop across it due to its reactance, hence producing lower distortion at low frequencies.

Despite claims of jitter immunity, the Buffalo sounds better with a low jitter source. A good USB interface (I use the JL Sounds, which has isolation and reclocking) will help. Or if you want to stay with S/PDIF, an interface that uses a chip like the AK4118 would be good.