I am sure that the tant bead caps are perfectly OK when used as buffer caps in a DC power supply, but when they couple AC audio signal, they are really toxic and do not belong in any product costing multiple kilobucks.
I have actually thought about getting rid of the output caps in the CDP, but my pre-amp to be (still in design/build stage) has no input coupling.
If you only heard what $100 in Cardas bypass caps did for a CDS3, I doubt very much if you would consider the results overpriced.
Mike,
I am pretty sure that bypassing the tants with almost *anything* would offer large improvements, but the degree of those improvements would be proportional to the subjective quality of the bypass caps. And in my experiments the Cardas caps are by far the most neutral that I have tried. I would love to try the $$$$$ Duelund CAST caps, but they are maybe 10x the price of the Cardas ones and are even larger. And I have already spend at least a kilobuck on capacitors that never made the final cut and are lying in a cardboard box somewhere.
The Cardas caps, like so many other domestic hi-end audiocaps are made in California by RTI, to the clients specifications. But those specifications vary widely, as do their performance.
I have no experience with the Cardas myrtle wood blocks. They may or may not offer any changes or improvements. But I have in the past spent thousands of $ on Fraim, which in my application made not one bit of difference as compared to a $150 Target rack. But it sure looked nicer and gave me a warm feeling knowing that my Naim/Naim/Naim/Naim/Naim/Naim/Naim/Naim/Naim/Linn/Naim/Naim system was supported on Naim stands.
If you only heard what $100 in Cardas bypass caps did for a CDS3, I doubt very much if you would consider the results overpriced.
Bypassing works up to a point, but the inferior capacitor will still dominate the overall result. Since you're trying to get the maximum effect of the Cardas cap's, then IMHO you need to use a 'base' capacitor that is at least electrically more similar to the Cardas than a Tantalum capacitor. Replacing the Tant's with small, inexpensive film cap's like the Wima would create a better platform for bypassing with low-value Cardas capacitors. Also, assuming your preamp is DC coupled at the input, you probably no longer need anything like 10uF of coupling capacitance. I would suggest a 4.7uF Wima as the base cap in place of the 10uF Tant, then bypass the Wima with a low value Cardas.
Today I was talking about doing exactly that.... the best way to upgrade the tant cap is to *replace* that tant cap. The 4.7 uF Wima may be a perfect candidate, although technically having a lower coupling value may result in early LF rolloff if the CDP is used into a preamp with a lowish input impedence.
Dave,
I couldn't really tell the difference when I got the Fraim, really I couldn't. Maybe because the equipment was housed in an adjoining walk in closet lessened its susceptability to vibrations.
How about this offer Dave...we live in adjoining states. If you like I could ship you my modded CDS3/XPS2 and it would be there on the next day. Then you can spend a few days with it (and having the chance to compare my hot-rodded XPS2 with your current supply in your current player too). All I ask is that you post your honest opinion, favourable or not, and pay for return shipping. Thats it. If that is agreeable, e-mail me your shipping address to [email protected].
But I wish you could hear for yourself the magnitude of changes that are inescapably those of large improvements that can be wrought by doing some fiddling to the output capacitors. Or the striking collapse of dynamics, detail, definition and tonality when a reworked on head unit is replaced by a standard one.
So how does this compare to the LP12/Aro/Armageddon/Prefix--assuming you still have that?