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Zeta tonearm rebuild.

karma67

pfm Member
So ive been busy over the last week,there has always been a slight bearing rattle since i bought the zeta in the lateral top bearing.

you can hear it in this video.

[video=youtube_share;YJYUkEy6o3o]

so what to do??
After further adjustment to the top bearing i became clear that it was either to loose or too tight,there was no in between sweet spot.
After a call to a fellow Zeta owner,Roger at TPA it seemed the best course of action was to strip the arm completely and check all the bearings.:eek::mental:

As there was no manual it was in at the deep end time!
Each bearing has its own cover disc,to access the bearings each one has to be removed,i made a tool up at work to do this.

IMG_2122_1.jpg


Top lateral bearing cup cover disc.

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With the bearing cover discs removed we can see 1 of the 4 bearing cups which hold the bearings in place.

Here's a photo of the top lateral bearing cup,the cover disc has been removed.

IMG_2011_1.jpg


To remove the arm tube the 2 vertical bearings have to be removed first,they are held in place with grubs screws so i first removed them.
Once the bearing cups are unscrewed using my special tool :) you can withdraw the arm tube out from the back,whoops the finger lift wont go through the square arm tube block???
Apply some heat,i used hot air pant stripper and let physics to the rest,once there's enough heat the finger lift just pulls out,bingo! you can now remove the arm tube!

Now that the arm tubes out of the way you have to remove the bearing cones before the arm tube block can be removed.These are a push fit and again held in place with grub screws,some heat here gets them out .

Here's the underside of the arm tube block showing the bottom lateral bearing cone.

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With both top and bottom cones removed the arm tube block comes away leaving the main c shaped block/arm pillar.

So here's all the parts.

IMG_2096.jpg


Someones been here before!
The tonearm uses 3, 2.5mm ball bearings to each bearing cup,except my bottom lateral bearing has 4 much smaller bearings which dont even fully cover the diameter of the cup they run in??
Thats not right,i think ive found my problem!!

In this pic you can just see the smaller bearings to the right of the top bearing cup.

IMG_2095_1.jpg


Feeling rather happy that id found the problem i ordered some new Silicon Nitride bearings,my thanks to angus for the advice :cool:

After work yesterday i started the rebuild.
All parts well cleaned with alcohol,basically its the strip down in reverse.
The bearing cones are put back in the arm tube block,then the bottom lateral bearings go in,then the top ones,a good tip here is to use Vaseline to hold the bearings in their cups,the cups have a small hole so once the arm is fully assembled the Vaseline can be cleaned away using wd40 squirted through the hole.

IMG_2099.jpg


Lateral bearings ready for action!
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Now comes the tricky bit,getting everything centered correctly,i used feeler gauges here,and got the arm tube in the right ball park,the final truing up i did when the arm was completely back together.

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Here the arm tube is back in place and new tonearm wire inserted,

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Anyone still following??:D

Right next i had to put the arm tube assembly back into the c shaped arm pillar,again final alignment is done when complete.

With everything back in place i set about getting everything totally true,careful loosening of one arm tube bearing and tightening of the other moves the arm tube left or right depending on where you need to be.Be very careful here as if you loosen 1 too much the cone slips out and you have to take the whole ting apart and re sit the bearings again,ask me how i know!!!

With everything all nicely squared up i had a lovely view from behind,ooh matron!

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Nows the time to give all the bearings a good soaking in wd40 to remove the vaseline,i did this periodically about 5 times,wiping with kitchen roll.
With that done i called it a day.

First job today was to check how everything was,movement of the arm in all directions was good so i went on to re solder the tonearm wires.

IMG_2115.jpg



And that's it folks,job done!
What effect has it had? well to start with the movement with the arm at balance is way better than before in all directions,the arm glides smoothly with no hint of sticking.
The head stock lines up with the alignment protractor grid lines at 90 degrees,before it didn't, and lastly here's a vid showing the greatly improved vertical free play.

[video=youtube_share;4yVlZlQwQRo]
 
Interesting to see what’s inside the beast. I take it that the liberal application of your paint stripping heat gun did not, in fact strip the paint :D.

Looks like an all-round good job. Don’t lose that tool - you might be looking at a new and lucrative career as Zeta Repair Man.
 
thanks,dont worry the paint was safe :)
its one thing to work on your own arm,working on other peoples...well that's a different story :eek:
 
A very informative and entertaining script if I may say so. Congratulations on a fine piece of photo journalism. I wish I had the confidence and ability to undertake a project like this.

Keep up the good work.

Good luck.
 
A very informative and entertaining script if I may say so. Congratulations on a fine piece of photo journalism. I wish I had the confidence and ability to undertake a project like this.

Keep up the good work.

Good luck.

thank you for you kind comments, yes to say i was worried before i started is an under statement,i had nothing for reference except a few pictures of someones else s zeta already in pieces.

as long as you work slowly and methodically its fine,the hard bit is centralizing and adjusting the bearings,you have to tighten them up with very little load,the real pain in the arse is the grub screw that locks it in place, it slightly tightens the bearing as does the cover disc,so you have to allow for that.

the long tool i made really helps in that you can feel very small movements when tightening (thanks to roger for the tip).
 
But don't lose that tool - it may be the only one in existence :D

I've got my Zeta box down from the loft - 7 Allen keys, 3 screwdrivers, 2 counter-balance weights, assorted nuts 'n' bolts, even a very stylish cartridge alignment gauge, but nary a two pronged tool..............
 
Hi.great work and same with tool.regards charlie. Ps I have pal who is selling tools for zeta.one like yours and a threaded rod with handle and rubber tip.
 
its much better,it would appear to be more focused now and tighter,im not sure what sonic signature the ceramic bearings have over the standard chrome steel ones but they certainly allow better movement.
 
A small update,
i have read on the web somewhere that early zetas used 3 bearings per cup and that later ones changed to 5 bearings.
Now it is very possible that whoever worked on the tonearm before me for what ever reason used the later 5 smaller bearings,even though he/she would have seen the fact that it uses 3.
Also the bearing cone angle would be different and the bearing cups ID made bigger to suit.It explains why my arm tube mounting block sat lower in the c shaped arm pillar,it now sits higher.

Here's a picture from the web of a later zeta using 5 to illustrate what i mean,i adjusted the photo to make seeing the bearings in their cup clearer.

zeta_final.jpg


and mine.

IMG_2095_1.jpg
 
A couple of things I can’t figure out from the pics: How does the anti-skate work? I’m assuming some spring up in the top by the knob somewhere, but what kind and how it is implemented is not clear. What kind of bearing is the lower lateral one? I’m assuming it would have to be a conventional captive ball-race (e.g. SME 3009) as the arm wiring would need to pass through the centre, though I can’t figure out how that would work in conjunction with the top loaded cone and ball bearings without stiction.

I owned and enjoyed a Zeta for several years, though never took it to bits!
 
A couple of things I can’t figure out from the pics: How does the anti-skate work? I’m assuming some spring up in the top by the knob somewhere, but what kind and how it is implemented is not clear. What kind of bearing is the lower lateral one? I’m assuming it would have to be a conventional captive ball-race (e.g. SME 3009) as the arm wiring would need to pass through the centre, though I can’t figure out how that would work in conjunction with the top loaded cone and ball bearings without stiction.

I owned and enjoyed a Zeta for several years, though never took it to bits!

hi tony,
to answer your questions,
yes you are right,it uses a small length of sprung steel,there is a pin on top of the arm tube mounting block that the spring pushes against as you turn the dial to apply bias pressure.not the last word in ant-skate lol.
all the bearings are the same,ie 3 to a cup,the bottom lateral one is the same only the cup is a press fit into the arm mounting collar.
machined into the arm tube mounting block as well as the arm pillar are 2 slots,the tonearm wire comes out of a hole in the tube and passes through the left slot,a pic explains it better.
here's the mounting block showing the 2 slots.

IMG_2099.jpg
 
Ah, thanks - I assumed the arm wiring passed centrally through the bearing as it does on most arms.
 
you can just make out the spring in this pic and the small pin it pushes against on the arm tube block

zetaabab.jpg
 


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