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Yamaha YP800 - restoration

blossomchris

I feel better than James Brown
Mods please place this in the correct forum, I presume D.I.Y or Classic or here.

I have dug my first turntable out of the loft. Purchased in the mid 70's new.

I know the motor will need a rewind as speed continuity was playing up in the late 80's, when I temporarily switched to cd as housing conditions not suitable for vinyl. The only missing items being the nylon tie to the anti-bias/skid and the mat, which may yet turn up. The headshell requires re-wiring, looks reasonably easy, says he
as clumsy as an ox.

I am not expecting it to outplay my main deck, but as a number 2 deck, this should suit me fine.

How do I go about this restoration, I have only worked on antique furniture bits and pieces, but nothing electrically/mechanical before, only repairs to larger, less precise household items

Advice please

Bloss

PS: Motor windings look fine, perhaps I need to find the mat to see if the speed can be regulated as it is a heavy mat from memory.
 
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The YP-800 is a lovely design and stands out for not only being very solidly built but also for being among those Japan Inc. decks with a proper component tonearm.

I wouldn't worry about the motor windings, the most likely cause of speed instability are insufficient power supply voltage to the motor and/or the pitch control variable resistors being in need of cleaning.

You can download the service manual from www.vinylasylum.com which details the power circuit board voltage test method and speed control pots adjustment. Note: you'll want to see +19±1V on the PS board (using a multimeter) and, in addition to the two pitch control knob variable resistors (accessible from below deck) there are two fixed position variable resistors on the motor control circuit board (located beneath the motor cover); all of which should get a good cleaning/exercise/re-adjustment via Deoxit or similar.

As it is a 2Kg platter, the presence or absence of a mat won't make much difference.
 
I have a YP-D9 which wouldn’t hold its speed at 45 rpm. Turned out to be a couple of components on the pcb being defective. A simple fix if you know what you’re doing - if you don’t it should go to a techie.
 
The YP-800 is a lovely design and stands out for not only being very solidly built but also for being among those Japan Inc. decks with a proper component tonearm.
I wouldn't worry about the motor windings, the most likely cause of speed instability are insufficient power supply voltage to the motor and/or the pitch control variable resistors being in need of cleaning.
You can download the service manual from www.vinylasylum.com which details the power circuit board voltage test method and speed control pots adjustment. Note: you'll want to see +19±1V on the PS board (using a multimeter) and, in addition to the two pitch control knob variable resistors (accessible from below deck) there are two fixed position variable resistors on the motor control circuit board (located beneath the motor cover); all of which should get a good cleaning/exercise/re-adjustment via Deoxit or similar.
As it is a 2Kg platter, the presence or absence of a mat won't make much difference.

Thanks, will start with a clean and take it from there. The link is most helpful.

Bloss
 
After a clean of PCB, all switches and adjustment knobs, re-assembled and we have lift off. It is holding the correct speed and is good to go. I will still look for replacement parts for future use.

Next is the arm, I have the original owners manual which goes into good detail. Take it apart and a clean ans see what's what. I do think the tone arm cable should be replaced, but first is to get it all operable.

There are a few marks to the top face, any suggestions to spruce it up a bit. I do have jeweller's paste, would this be suitable on the alloy. Also the lid needs a polish and scratch removal, again any suggestions please.

The hinges for the lid are a work of art, real quality blum type hinges with easy access removal facility, in fact the whole build puts many to shame.

Bloss
 
Glad to hear that it is running well. I think you will be surprised at just how good this deck can sound with a posh cartridge on.

IIRC, the plinth top is cast alloy with silver anodized paint on. I wouldn't use jeweller's paste; my preferred polish is 3M Hand Glaze, an ultra-fine abrasive polish that is kind to clear coat. Jeweller's paste is meant for bare metals only and can strip plating off with little effort.

The absolute best dustcover restorer is Novus No. 2 Plastic Polish. If there are any deeper scratches, rather than just fog and swirl marks, for example, then No. 3 Medium Scratch Remover first, followed by the No. 2 polish. I've a similar vintage clear Pioneer lid here that you can barely tell is present from across the room after such treatment.

I'd recommend against taking the tonearm apart just for cleaning, that is, unless it was in a very dirty environment with the lid up all these years. Even then, a soft artists brushing followed by cotton buds dampened with a bit of glass cleaner can have even the grungiest arm looking new in no time. If you are worried about the ball races then a shot of dry compressed air (dry is the problem, better nothing than damp). Again, these should be fine unless the deck was in a filthy place with no lid on.
 
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Thanks again Craig b. I will halt remedials until I have procured the necessary materials as per your suggestions.

If I manage to get this up and running properly, I have a Stanton 681EEE cartridge (2nd one) that I used with this originally. I would need to find a new stylus assembly, possibly LPGear may do one. If not, I have a Goldring G1042 with not many hours on it to try. Opens up a different world again, be good to buy a few different ones to try.
If I had the space I would re invest in a pair of MS Pagaent II, just to hear what Talking Heads, especially Speaking in Tongues sounds like from memory.

A great deal of pleasure can be acquired from this, an interesting journey I think.

Bloss
 
You inspired me today to fit the new (to me) 1980’s vintage Micro Seiki feet to my Yamaha turntable and give it a good clean up. I then set it up with a spirit level and it’s never sounded better.

Thanks! :)
 
Polish and scratch remover all arrived. Will have a go when a bit cooler.


I need to have another look at the start/stop push button, it works fine after cleaning and then does not respond.
I found the original headshell and asked my son to replace the short leads, all good.

Any idea on the best matt for this platter?

Bloss
 
As the platter is a single piece casting, supported at its centre by interference fit with a tapered sleeve round the spindle, a rubber mat like the one originally fitted makes sense. Having said that, IME, felt mats can sound good on these kinds of decks, however, it tends to be a suck it and see thing as the result can end up sounding too lively.

Back in the infancy of record mats as hi-fi accessories, I had variable results from the likes of Platter Matter, Music Mat, Mission's Sorbomat, and others on the major Japan Inc. decks. Despite the change in record height being accounted for, with some decks, the sound became over damped in a way that seemed to suck the life out of the music; on others not so much. Do note that, with direct drive decks, there is often plenty of clearance below to damp the underside of the platter with something like bituminous sheet and then use felt on top.

Regardless, what mat you end up using, the nice thing about the YP-800 is that the tonearm is height adjustable; as is the height of the separate arm rest.
 
As the platter is a single piece casting, supported at its centre by interference fit with a tapered sleeve round the spindle, a rubber mat like the one originally fitted makes sense. Having said that, IME, felt mats can sound good on these kinds of decks, however, it tends to be a suck it and see thing as the result can end up sounding too lively.

Back in the infancy of record mats as hi-fi accessories, I had variable results from the likes of Platter Matter, Music Mat, Mission's Sorbomat, and others on the major Japan Inc. decks. Despite the change in record height being accounted for, with some decks, the sound became over damped in a way that seemed to suck the life out of the music; on others not so much. Do note that, with direct drive decks, there is often plenty of clearance below to damp the underside of the platter with something like bituminous sheet and then use felt on top.

Regardless, what mat you end up using, the nice thing about the YP-800 is that the tonearm is height adjustable; as is the height of the separate arm rest.

I like the idea of dampening the platter as I will try my Clearaudio mm on this (not the new one btw) and this is a lively sound for an mm compared to say a Goldring G1042. I will try a felt mat and dampening first.

Yes indeed, a useful feature for an arm and rest, and not forgetting the removable head shell so I can try a few MC cartridges also.

The tonearm cable is showing no sign of deterioration so I presume let sleeping dogs lie or would I gain much by replacing this?

Thanks Craig B, I am off polishing if the garage workshop is cool enough.

Bloss
 
I am going to take back what I said about damping the platter, as I just had a look at the YP-800 brochure and it is a really impressive looking bit of alloy.

Unlike the user manual, the brochure also makes clear that the tonearm cable has a low capacitance rating of 60pF/1.2m. I wouldn't change that out as it may very well be what helps make your chosen MM work best into your chosen phono input...

"The YP-800 features a low-capacitance (60pF/1.2m) output cable for the unrestricted high-frequency response needed to assure brilliant, clear separation when CD-4, Quadradisc or other 4-channel records are played."
 
Yes, it is a great piece of engineering/milling, think that is what it is called.

I will probably start another thread on the best option for re-cabling the tone arm. I will do some research first, but probably the information will eventually leave me in a state of utter confusion. I do get what you said re quadraphonic replay, and I only own one, a Walter/Wendy Carlos if my memory serves me well so I do have to change this cabling.

Bloss
 
Sorry, I should have been clearer; the existing cabling is ideal for use with MM cartridges and modern phono stages.

Typically, the lower the cable capacitance the better, and 60pF/1.2m is very low.
 
No problem, it is my understanding that is haywire, bit of a novice on the finer details of this hobby.

Bloss

PS: You are not wrong about the acrylic/perspex restorer/cleaner. It does what it says on the tin.
Deck now with the 3m recommendation of yours.
 
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@blossomchris,

Just wondering how the old Yamaha deck has turned out after all of your efforts last month?

Did the start/stop button come back to life after a bit of exercise?

Craig
 
The Yamaha is looking good, thank you. Sorted the switch contact with a new purchase of contact spray, think the previous one was like its owner, past his best.

It is yet to be installed in the system as I am currently building my third attempt at a housing/unit for all the kit. It will be really good to hear the Yamaha against my other turntable.

Regarding the cartridge fitting for the Yamaha, the only set-up advice, other than the basics is the stylus to project 15mm in front of the headshell, suppose this is a suck and see situation for the fine tuning. I will ask a member on here to give it a once over when the unit is complete and more importantly, to fit my new cartridge
when it eventually arrives on the main deck.

Bloss
 
I've just had another look at both the YP-800 owner's and service manuals and, apparently, Yamaha were kind enough to provide two convenient methods of setting a 15mm overhang without having to resort to a rule or protractor...

1) On the original headshell, there is a ridge on the underside that the stylus tip can be aligned with to give the correct overhang. All that's left is to get the cartridge body nicely square in the headshell. See figures 10 and 11 on page 7 in the owners's manual.
-or-
2) Place the original 45rpm adapter over the spindle and then align the stylus tip such that it is directly over the furthest point on the outer ring of the adapter; again, positioning the cartridge body as square as possible in the headshell. See step 4 under 'Adjustments' in the service manual.

Assuming you have both the original headshell and 45rpm adapter, I'd go with the headshell method, and then double check by swinging the arm over the 45rpm adapter.

No doubt, someone will eventually come along here and try to persuade you that you'll need use an alignment protractor AND align the cantilever rather than the cartridge body (aka the generator); else you'll have no chance of enjoying your records.

Interestingly, because of the vintage of this deck, the classic Percy Wilson* inner and outer groove radii of 56.00mm and 146.30mm have been assumed by the tonearm boffins. This isn't at all surprising, as it wasn't until the late 1970s that the later works of Löfgren, Baerwald, and much later, Stevenson were 'rediscovered'. This matters not, as lateral tracking error distortion will not exceed 1.5% using the chosen maths. (as per the Yamaha feature sheet, and double checked here using Excel).

* Percy Wilson, "Needle Track Alignment," The Gramophone, 1924 (14 years before the German bloke!).
 
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I've just had another look at both the YP-800 owner's and service manuals and, apparently, Yamaha were kind enough to provide two convenient methods of setting a 15mm overhang without having to resort to a rule or protractor...

1) On the original headshell, there is a ridge on the underside that the stylus tip can be aligned with to give the correct overhang. All that's left is to get the cartridge body nicely square in the headshell. See figures 10 and 11 on page 7 in the owners's manual.
-or-
2) Place the original 45rpm adapter over the spindle and then align the stylus tip such that it is directly over the furthest point on the outer ring of the adapter; again, positioning the cartridge body as square as possible in the headshell. See step 4 under 'Adjustments' in the service manual.

Assuming you have both the original headshell and 45rpm adapter, I'd go with the headshell method, and then double check by swinging the arm over the 45rpm adapter.

I have the original manual and head shell, and the 45rpm adapter was unfortunately not included in the UK spec. The manual, however, does suggest an alternative to aligning with the head shell imaginary line, you can also centre the stylus tip 15mm from the centre of the t/t spindle.

I gave you the wrong info in my previous post regarding the 15mm, sorry.

Bloss
 


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