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Yamaha NS-1000M Refurbishment

YNWOAN

100% Analogue
I have a pair of Yamaha NS-1000M speakers and am in the process of conducting an extensive refurbishment/update of them.

Replace all capacitors with polypropylene (same value) - improve tolerances/matching
Externalise crossovers
Make stands
Improve bracing of cabinet/bass driver
Repair/improve mounting of mid driver
Remove L-pads (replace with fixed resistors)
Make anti-diffraction rings for tweeter and mid
Replace/remake badges
Remake rear connector panel
Remake all gaskets
Replace all cables
Smooth and refinish all driver rebates
Replace rear panel wood screws with M4 T-nuts and bolts
Refinish cabinets in high gloss black laminate

If interested, step-by-step pictures and description can be found here (updated as work progresses):

http://www.audioflat.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=159
 
Yeh, that was what started this off the idea that the XO could be improved, and then once he was looking at that, well it was only natural that he'd redo the cabs.
 
Looks good Mark!
I haven't read the entire thread but it looks like you avoided the temptation of Troels' XO.

Must admit I am doubtful about Troels' stuff after I tried all his variations to improve Proac R2.5 clones. All he did was turn a flawed but characterful speaker into a flawed but characterless speaker. Of courese that was a long time ago and one would hope he's learned a lot since then, given the huge number of designs he's done.
 
Great stuff, can you give me your address and just out of curiosity what room will you keep them in when they're finished. Just interested!

BTW I have pair changed the caps and put them on open frame stands and everytime I sit and listen to them I am amazed by the sound.
 
I did a cap swap on mine, replacing the bipolar PIO's with polyprops, but left the electrolytics on the bass for now. Mark has gone one step further on his and is replacing the pots with fixed resistors.

You should ask to see his bloody stands...They're beasts.
 
I did a cap swap on mine, replacing the bipolar PIO's with polyprops, but left the electrolytics on the bass for now. Mark has gone one step further on his and is replacing the pots with fixed resistors.

You should ask to see his bloody stands...They're beasts.

Talking of beast-like NS1000 stands and Marks going one step further, you should try these:
http://www.itemaudio.com/index.php/active-passive-speakers/speaker-stands/yamaha-ns-1000-stands.html

Sterling work on the Yams so far: do I recognise those XOs?
 
Wow, this does take the art of bodging to a whole new level!

One thing , though: aluminium enclosures for the XO might not be the best option.
 
There's no reason why you should recognise the Xo's. They are complete one-offs not following anything that has gone before. Split off bass and through-put from mid/tweeter for an external supertweeter with the pots replaced with fixed value resistors.

That finish looks shiny, I'll bring the Canon round later if you fancy.
 
I've just updated the thread with pictures and explanation of the lamination process. I'm still behind a bit with pictures though, the neoprene gasket set I have made, the positioning template for the logo badges, the tilt adjustment and cups for the speaker/stand interface (and probably a couple of other bits that I can't think of at the moment).
___________________________

Yes please Si, though I still have lots of finishing off to do on them (they are very shiny :).

Wow, this does take the art of bodging to a whole new level!

One thing , though: aluminium enclosures for the XO might not be the best option.

I'm not a big fan of bodging (which rather implies a casual, 'thrown together', quality) - if a job's worth doing, it's worth doing to excess in my opinion :).

I don't see why aluminium would not be good to house the crossover, it's non ferrous/non magnetic after all.

do I recognise those XOs?

Umm..not unless you have looked at the thread before. It's all completely custom, designed and made by myself - it isn't based on anybody else's work or existing design. The actual circuit is just the standard Yamaha one - all I have done is laid it out in discreet sections for the tweeter, mid, bass and L-pad attenuation (so I can more easily control the wiring from input to output and make changes to specific elements ). The capacitors have been replaced with polypropylene - the inductors are the original Yamaha ones - this is common and there's nothing very unique in this. I realise you bought some crossovers from a chap on DIY Audio who had also replaced the capacitors, but this is not intended to emulate that and is, in truth, one of the lesser elements of the project. I have also considered the Troels Gravesen crossover modifications, but I really didn't want to add extra complication to the circuit (which his mods do). I've had a good search on the Internet and I've not seen anything like the crossover cases or speaker back panel from anyone else (which is why I made my own - as that is what I wanted).

I've seen the stands you do, and they do look very nice. Unfortunately, the lack of spikes top and bottom ruled them out for me. I also wanted them to be three legged (so much easier to adjust) and to have the option to fill them (mine are filled with lead shot).

My stands: http://www.homebuilthifi.com/project/4702
 
So I popped round to Mark's today and took my little camera with me to snap a few pics.

8478987587_5d7374626c_c.jpg

This one shows the finish he's got with his laminate, it's super glossy with the finest diffusion pattern to it. It's not a mirror finish, it's more subtle and softening than that. This shot also really catches the effect from that glass edge acrylic.

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This one nicely catches the contrast in materials between his new mid and tweeter surrounds and the laminate, the closed cell foam provides a textural contrast and really makes the ally driver surrounds 'pop'.

8478989569_a9f9c57e34_c.jpg

Here's the back panel with the crossover panel blanking plate fitted. The camera doesn't quite capture it but these are a perfect fit into the recess.

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Here's a real moment of truth shot as Mark peels back the protective wrap for the first time. The tension, and relief was palpable.

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A little closer up on the crossover plate, plenty of nice detail here, the finish is impeccable.

8478990727_e2a4606a99_c.jpg

Ok, enough with the peel and reveal.

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Extracts from the crossover, mid and bass sections laid out. I think these are soem way from being the final parts, some tinkering to do yet.

8478991653_20ee3ac816_c.jpg

Close up of the new badges, these are etched on two sides to give a 3D parallax effect. When you look at them dead on you can see only one line of text, as you shift to the side the depth of the panel becomes apparent and the back lettering is revealed.

8480082478_d78bfb476d_c.jpg

Nearly the whole shebang.

8478992513_43301641e0_c.jpg

Close up of the brace, that's a beast, that bass driver isn't going anywhere once that is torqued up.

8478994249_a364f5cca1_c.jpg

One last shot of the new badges, this one catches the full depth of the panel.

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And that's it for now I'll take soem more once they are finished and back in place. There's still some spraying to be done on the drivers and the edges need a clean.

But bloody hell they do look quite remarkable.
 
Wow!!

Excellent work Mark.

I wish I had a fraction of your skills and tenacity.

I hope they sound as good as they look.
 


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