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Who manufactures perspex lids to spec? I want one for my Croft.

beammeup

pfm Member
Odd question I know - but I'm sure my Croft 7 power amp sounds even better with the cover / lid off - so does anyone know where I can get a perspex lid manufactured to replace the metal lid on the Croft?
 
They sound even clearer filled with clear water than with a clear plastic lid as well don't ya know...

Sometimes Darwin needs a helping hand.....
 
OK so taking the pee... I don't blame you. I'd like to try the idea out though, so, still looking ...
 
You could probably find the type of fabricator that makes TT lids to make you a perspex cover? Google will find out more.
I suspect that the lid or cover/chassis probably helps reduce the amp receiving or emitting interference though, assuming that it's made from metal?
 
I don't own a Croft power amp', but suspect some parts run very warm - all plastics dislike heat, and localised heat even more so.
Also bear in mind that the only way that plastic does not sag when made into a TT lid (apart from TTs being cold) is because it is essentially a box - the sides support the edges of the top, and I suspect that the Croft lid is basically a square U shape.

Sounds like a crazy idea to me, irrespective of what it might sound like - it seems extremely unlikely to work for very long (if) at all.

I have, inadvertently, switched my Croft pre on minus lid, and that picked-up every bit of radiated mush imaginable - white noise.
 
Signmakers use acrylic and are expert in making boxes in the material. With or without lights and printing.
 
Pic of a valve amp using plastic casing near/over/around the valves please.

Interesting to see the amps on the link with the huge heatsinks used in the wrong orientation, suggesting that the heatsinks are window-dressing/bait, so probably running very cool.
Also interesting that the plastic is used in small slabs, and not formed, on a SS amp'.

To stop any plastic sagging over a wide span when even gently heated over hours, days, months...….……………….
 
You could actually fill it with de-ionised water :)

(please don't)

Indeed. I once worked on industrial high voltage electronics that used this running through copper pipes which were "the wiring" to cool them... there was circuitry which measured the purity and conductivity of the distilled de-ionised water and would shut it down if a problem was found!
 
Pic of a valve amp using plastic casing near/over/around the valves please.

Interesting to see the amps on the link with the huge heatsinks used in the wrong orientation, suggesting that the heatsinks are window-dressing/bait, so probably running very cool.
Also interesting that the plastic is used in small slabs, and not formed, on a SS amp'.

To stop any plastic sagging over a wide span when even gently heated over hours, days, months...….……………….
It's a pity Photobucket became so restrictive, as I did exactly that with the Velleman K4000 I made 35 years ago, but the photos have gone. Ventilation holes drilled above the eight EL34s allowed it to breathe, and in the ten or so years it was used like that it never sagged. I still use the amp, but after rebuilding it (for the second or third time!) it now has a perforated steel cover.
 
Some amplifiers are so beautifully built that a see through lid allows you to see the quality of construction and so enhances the experience. I don't know the Croft 7, but other Croft stuff I've seen is a bit more, erm, rural, in its construction. However, Plasticsonline do lovely work at a reasonable price, but if you are worried about heat, why not use glass?
 
I still use the amp, but after rebuilding it (for the second or third time!) it now has a perforated steel cover.
"They told me I couldn't build a castle in the swamp, they said it would sink. But I built it anyway. It sank into the swamp. So I built another one. That fell down and sank into the swamp. So I built another..."
 
"They told me I couldn't build a castle in the swamp, they said it would sink. But I built it anyway. It sank into the swamp. So I built another one. That fell down and sank into the swamp. So I built another..."
Rebuilt as in modified and upgraded. It always worked, it just works better now. Like the active crossover I built in 1983, continually upgraded and still in use. With the Velleman K4000. And the Concordant clone pre, also rebuilt more than once. All still working, never sank. :rolleyes:
 


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