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What type of stands for Tannoy dmt12

eevo1969

eevo1969

pfm Member
I need to sort out some stands for a pair of DMT12 but before making a start what would be the best type of stand? Metal open frame stands or a solidly built massy pillar filled with a heavy materials such as Atabites and childrens play sand or metal plate top and bottom with wooden posts and metal bolts with washers?

I’m intending to use Speedframe for the metal stands and I intend to make a low pair with a slant to have the speakers aim at my head rather than feet and a taller, level pair at around 300mm, approximately level with my ears sitting around 3 metres away.

The pillar variant is a simple thing so doesn’t require much discussion at this point.

I can also make a wooden set made with steel plates top and bottom with wooden uprights 4x2 connecting the top and bottom via bolts and washers.

Anyone have a opinion on which type would be the best option?

Thanks.
 
I have DMT-15’s and had mine custom made. They are filled 3/4 with playground sand. I did not use the spikes as the base settles firmly into the cork floor after a few days. The nice thing is though they weigh a lot, the whole shebang can be moved around for better positioning which I experimented with quite a bit recently. I added roller bearings and and custom absorption platforms because the speakers are so worth it.

s628xmq.jpg


65pH9ez.jpg
 
divedeepdog said:
https://flic.kr/p/2mS95FP

I’ve made these out of 25mm birch I had. Cooky suggested the top plate connected with the inside of the frame.

400 high, didn’t think about tilting them backwards.
Click to expand...

Very nice. It’s interesting to see how others have dealt with raising them up. The tilt will only really come into it if I have enough materials left over to play around with, the design is very simple, like this:
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2mSaTqn]0CDA6BD7-CC1B-4448-9D22-936CAA371031 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/188083431@N08/[/URL]
 
John said:
I have DMT-15’s and had mine custom made. They are filled 3/4 with playground sand. I did not use the spikes as the base settles firmly into the cork floor after a few days. The nice thing is though they weigh a lot, the whole shebang can be moved around for better positioning which I experimented with quite a bit recently. I added roller bearings and and custom absorption platforms because the speakers are so worth it.

s628xmq.jpg


65pH9ez.jpg
Click to expand...

Lovely. Look superb. I think that may very well be the way to go……
 
John said:
I have DMT-15’s and had mine custom made. They are filled 3/4 with playground sand. I did not use the spikes as the base settles firmly into the cork floor after a few days. The nice thing is though they weigh a lot, the whole shebang can be moved around for better positioning which I experimented with quite a bit recently. I added roller bearings and and custom absorption platforms because the speakers are so worth it.

s628xmq.jpg


65pH9ez.jpg
Click to expand...

what are the little pucks??
 
It's important to follow Tannoy instruction re stands i.e. Such is the lossy design of the DMT enclose the top of the stand must connect with the inset bottom panel and not the main carcass of the enclosures.
 
cooky1257 said:
It's important to follow Tannoy instruction re stands i.e. Such is the lossy design of the DMT enclose the top of the stand must connect with the inset bottom panel and not the main carcass of the enclosures.
Click to expand...

I’ve actually used them in that way since I got them. A piece of pine to keep the frame just off the surface that they’re on but tbh it was to protect the framing rather than some “knowledge” so thanks for the advice.
 
I like the rollerblock idea, but worry about displacement of the tweeter and effect on phase when used with speakers.
 
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