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What is considered the best tonearm for a Michell Gyrodec??

It's a few years since I owned a Gyro, but I had very good results with a Hadcock 242, and with a Tecnoarm.
 
Had my Gyro about 15 years and have gone from a rewired RB250 with Technoweight to OL Silver MK2 to OL Illustrious mk1 to OL Conqueror Mk3c.
Fair to say I like Origin Live arms yes, but they definitely work well on the Michell. I've tried my mates Jelco on there too, but something just didn't click and it's not that I don't like the Jelco sound as I have one on my other deck. Anyway, the OL arms are definitely worth considering as they're great value and I think they work well.
For reference my Gyro is an SE, with HR PSU, Pete's Pylons and Michell clamp.
 
Darren L said:
I used a rewired RB300 which was good for the money, then a Michell Technoarm which was better, then an SME IV which was excellent on the Gyro.
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I had an RB300 on mine. Sounded excellent. Wish I'd not got rid of the Gyro.
 
I had an SME 3009 mk2 detachable head shell and then and Audiomods Mk4 they both sounded great TBH
I sold the Gyro deck a few years ago but I still have the SME arm board and Audiomods arm if you are interested
IMG_1521 by Alan Towell, on Flickr
Alan
 
I’ve had my Gyrodec with a Tecnoarm for about 15 years, works superbly. toyed with the idea of changing it with a sme iv or v but it’s still here. I’ve used it with dynavector 10x5, dv17d3, dv20x2l and a Benz wood sl, all with fantastic results.
Great turntable and arm combination.
 
I've used an RB300, Hadcock and currently a Nima on mine. I recommend all these options, they've worked well and have a different character. I'm currently in unipivot land and very much enjoying the style. I've a feeling just about any 9 inch arm works well on the deck, so go with whatever you fancy, and find something that matches the looks of the deck.
 
Many years ago, around 1995.. I called Mitchell to ask what they thought of the idea of pairing a Gyro with my Linn Ittok LVIII Mk2. No lesser Gent than the late John Michell answered the call and rather wearily explained that I would hear whatever arm/cartridge combination I used and I would not hear the Gyro.

Clearly a bit of sales talk, but also basically correct.
 
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Mike Reed said:
I had a Five on my Orbe for 14 years, so found it interesting that you preferred the (presumably 9") PU7. I changed decks and got a 12" PU7, which I find to be an excellent one for s.q. and ergonomics. I can well imagine the virtues of the PU7 on a Gyro as opposed to the SME.

O.P., if you have a predilection for unipivots, the N.A. range are good, and Jonnie at Audio Origami has a new unipivot out. Worth investigating.
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Yes the 9” version. I think I should have listened to that saying “don’t meet your heroes” been disappointed with SME V, Quad 34 and Naim 500, suspect expectations were maybe too high on my part. I’m very pleased with the PU7/XX2 combination, seems ito work well together on the type of records I play - rock/pop/synth generally.
 
Mullardman said:
Many years ago, around 1995.. I called Mitchell to ask what they thought of the idea of pairing a Gyro with my Linn Ittok LVIII Mk2.
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John Michell (no 't'); It was in 1995 that I went to his factory in Borehamwood to pick up one of the first Orbes. I'd previously met him at his house when I bought his ProAc R3s which he'd used in the Orbe's development. He had a Five on his Orbe so I had a Five on mine, but he used a Koetsu; I started with a Lyra (not sure why, though). Very nice chap; used to pop in from time to time on my travels.

putting different arms on the Orbe (and I guess the Gyro was the same) was not a matter of synergy but one of balance; getting those springs right was a bit of a pain.
 
Mike Reed said:
putting different arms on the Orbe (and I guess the Gyro was the same) was not a matter of synergy but one of balance; getting those springs right was a bit of a pain.
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I think the suspension towers were modified at some pont, making it a bit easier. Once I figured out how to do it.. I found it pretty easy on my Orbe. I put up a detailed description of how I built up my Orbe from a pile of bits.. somewhere on here....
 
Mullardman said:
I think the suspension towers were modified at some pont, making it a bit easier. Once I figured out how to do it.. I found it pretty easy on my Orbe. I put up a detailed description of how I built up my Orbe from a pile of bits.. somewhere on here....
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Definitely easier with the modified towers (no springs) which is what the OP has done.
 
So how do you know when you've got it right ?

I was tempted by the pylons until I read that you needed to dismantle things to measure the holes before ordering. Mine is an early model with the A/C motor.
 
The reps have been great so far, very informative and interesting to say the least, I'm really loving the Nima, Benz and Ear 834p combo at the moment.

For Eisenach honestly it takes no time and measuring the hole diameter is a doddle. That particular upgrade is what set me off on my path. :)
 
Anyone put an Orbe double spider on a Gryro? Is there an upgrade pack from Michell like the platter, clamp ones.
 
I use an sme v on my gyrodec MK3 with a newly refurbished Allaerts MC1 Boron MK2. It's bliss, Jan Allaerts thinks very highly of the tt/arm combination fwiw
 
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