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Tweaking EPOS ES11

! Has anyone tried playing around with the ES11 tweeters ?

I was surprised to find ferrofluid in the ES 11's MBQ tweeters (given the high XO frequency).

Removing that might be interesting, ferro generally not favoured in flat earth land. Crossover would probably need tweaking, but, given it's only a cap and a shunt resistor, that wouldn't be a major.
 
You don't wanna do anything with the tweeter with the Jantzen superior cap and a Mills resistor.

No I don't feel the need to do anything as it sounds magical at all levels.
This combination cap/resistor proofs that the tweeter doesn't have any short comings as stated in so many discussions on forums.
My ES11 sounding neutral,detailed perfectly placed in a huge and much deeper soundstage.
Have owned a lot off prominent speakers over the years from big floorstanders to bookshelves and these ES11 are by far the best sounding off all I've owned.
 
As it is a while ago since this topic started I feel the need to share mine modification on the ES11 which will result in speakers that will sound "beyond believe".
I'll keep it short.I have tested different capicitors and even more resistors,metal and carbon in mine ES11.
First thing I did was replacing the stranded Naïm cables inside for solid 0.6mm copper cable in a hollow cotton sleeve and a teflon tube over it.Only this replacement made a huge difference in sound for the better even on the supernait II of my brother.Than I went to drivers.
Mundorf Supreme didn't meet my expectations a single bit and found it rather a down than a upgrade.
Switch the mundorf capacitor and resistor for the Jantzen Superior Z-cap in combination with a Mills MRA5 47R resistor and tell me on which level your ES11 has landed...
You won't believe it till you hear it and tell me "are you going back to mundorf supreme?"

Hey Raggendeman1, i want to try your upgrade with my es11, do i take the original values or which one do you recommend? Thx, aleksy
 
Raggendeman hasn't been seen here since Septemger 2019 so don't hold your breath waiting for an answer.

If anybody biamps any of these speakers which run the mid bass wide open and a single cap on the tweeter you could try doing the first order high pass filter passively at line level. In some cases depending on which amplifiers are used all you would have to do is change the coupling cap at the input of the power amp for a lower value. In my case I used a polystyrene film cap. One less cap in the chain :cool: but nothing but wire between amp and tweeters which might make your sphincter tighten up a little
 
Oh thanks. I changed the original cap&resistor a couple years ago, when i restored the cabinet and cables...can not remember anymore which ones i chose. i do not want to buy&try several times, would be glad to have recommondations which work fine, and which values. Biamping is not intended.
 
i found a photo in the deep of my archive ;) i used a clarity cap csa 1,5µF, and 2 resistors 47Ohm But why two in a row?)...
 
…but nothing but wire between amp and tweeters which might make your sphincter tighten up a little
Put a capacitor in series with the tweeter to give a high pass crossover frequency an order of magnitude lower than your actual crossover frequency until you're cocksure that the tweeter power amp never produces significant DC output (even at switch on), and the line-level filter is doing what it should.
 
Put a capacitor in series with the tweeter to give a high pass crossover frequency an order of magnitude lower than your actual crossover frequency until you're cocksure that the tweeter power amp never produces significant DC output (even at switch on), and the line-level filter is doing what it should.

That is a good idea however I never bothered. I have four tweeters wired in series per channel in my speakers so I expect each tweeter sees a quarter of the total voltage which I thought would be safer. If the amp went totally DC I would need to buy a lot of new tweeters. It is an accepted risk in my case.
 


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