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townsend rock turntables (questions)

I don't know if Max is still doing them but I got some bellows type feet for my Elite a couple of years ago from him, like an ugly version of those used on the 7. A really nice improvement over sitting it on a seismic sink. They were a bit of a faff to stabilise at first as the studs needed fixing in the feet with a bit of loctite. Each foot has to be raised while it's adjusted (from the top) and then the whole deck lifted and lowered evenly but I've not had to readjust in 2+ years.

A 10mm polycarbonate armboard lowered the noise floor compared to the 1/2" perspex one I'd used for decades but I don't have an aluminium one any more for comparison.

These feet have replaced the seismics and can now be purchased from many outlets - four attached to an aluminium plate , they aint half expensive though

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=251273142061
 
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Dave, thanks for that, useful advice on pulley removal. I was just very kindly given a phillips motor (same number as your Airpax so assume same oem motor) by Stewart on hifi wigwam (with board) out of an old Rock of his. Interesting what you say about yours being wired in series, I didn't know that was possible, but it explains the very odd, kind of back to front, wiring arrangement it has. I'm just toying with weather to use it (bit of a pain as i'll have to make a mounting plate) or just buy a new premotec. The board I have with the phillips uses a 1k ohm resistor, but with a 0.82uf cap, I suspect that was what Max had in the drawer that week, it would be good to know which is right and if it makes much difference, but I can't seem to find any data on that motor. Anyway thanks again.
 
I have a Townsend Rock with Origin Live motor and power supply. Rega RB300 modded by Audio Origami.
The Townsend has a definite sound, nothing like as clinical as my SME20, but with some records the effect is so appealing that these records then just sound anaemic on either the SME or LP12. It doesn't do fine detail, but I could live with it as my only TT if I had to.
I found it works best in a valve Quad/Tannoy system.
 
Martz,

A current phasing cap value of 0.68uF or 0.82uF will be OK for that motor - I have done the calcs and either will do if using a single value component.
A 1K series voltage dropping resistor would seem to be suitable for a 110v supply - I assume this is how it will be fed?


Good luck.

David
 


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