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Thorens TD 125 stock lid question

Marchbanks

Marchbanks

Hat and Beard member
My TD 125 came with the stock plinth and cover. The hinge system was disassembled and the lid had a large crack around part of one end hinge and the other end hinge was broken off entirely from the lid, but still tenaciously holding on to a small section of it!

I think I’ve worked the mechanism out now - could someone confirm that the open position is really the most tension-free as far as the metal rods are concerned (ie that is the position the rods would really like to be in), and that it is the weight of the lid that keeps it shut against the tension in the rods? This seems to me to put a huge amount of stress on the lid around the hinges, which would account for why the lid has given way there.
 
As you've noticed, the TX-25 hinge mechanism consists of metal rods that are under torsion when the lid is lowered. IOW, the rods are increasingly twisted relative the the central bracket that holds the 'L' shaped end of each rod stationary. The 'L' shaped end is at roughly 90º to the 'C' shaped end that fits into the hinge, so when the lid is closed both torsion and torque are at maximum.

Be very careful not to attempt the remove the hinges from the plinth with the dust cover installed and in the down position, else it is all one big loaded mouse trap with one's fingers being the mice!

thorens-td-125-mkii-turntable_1_d31864939022011539623beeea7c2fac.jpg
 
Thanks Craig, that’s confirmed what I thought. My problem is the small section of the lid around one of the hinges that has separated from the rest. Because of bodged attempts to repair it by the previous owner I can’t get a tight enough fit to use chloroform/solvent weld it back in efficiently. And anything less than that gives way immediately due to the high bending forces around the hinge. So I’m trying to work out a way of making the lid serviceable again - perhaps by adding some kind of bracing where the hinges are attached. It seems a shame to replace the cover or convert it to a lift-off type.

44468249395_5d99e0d6dd_c.jpg
 
Thanks, that’s exactly what I had in mind, although maybe with acrylic rather than alu. Although the metal doesn’t look too bad - I could say it matches the strip across the front of the TT if I was being pretentious!
 
I like the idea of the aluminium as it will hide the cracks in the cover if you use a big enough piece.
 
Hi mate I cant promise but I might have a spare lid in the loft with some other bits.
I am busy today, So will pop up and have a look later tonight. If its there you can have it mate. I’ll let you know later
 
jasonski73 said:
Hi mate I cant promise but I might have a spare lid in the loft with some other bits.
I am busy today, So will pop up and have a look later tonight. If its there you can have it mate. I’ll let you know later
Click to expand...

That would be great - thank you.
 
jasonski73 said:
Hi mate
Sorry just spent an hour up in the loft, the lid I had was for the td126 which I used to also own.
This is the one I found up there. If you can do something with it I will send it.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jason, it was very kind of you to look. The 126 lid looks totally different though, so I’ll pass - but there may well be someone else here who would appreciate it. My 125 lid has responded well to an afternoon of rubbing down in the sunshine today - another session plus the alu strips linked to above should result in something pretty good. Thanks again for your generous offer.
 
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Hi mate
Your welcome wish you luck with the lid! ps I bought some specialist plastic polish repair on eBay a few years back
I will find out the name of it. It worked really well on the lid of a TD160 I had at the time, It pretty much looked like new
with a bit of elbow grease.
 
I have a TD 125 and purchased a new lid for it. For authenticity I tried the stock lid hinge system but in practice it just doesn't work. The tension on those bars is quite scary.
Instead I purchased 3 sony/linn style hinges which have a spring built in each. They work fine...and I didn't have to drill holes in my nice new lid. You need three to support the lid weight. The solution for you would be to fit them on the back where your lid is undamaged. Here's mine...

 
madmike said:
I have a TD 125 and purchased a new lid for it. For authenticity I tried the stock lid hinge system but in practice it just doesn't work. The tension on those bars is quite scary.
Instead I purchased 3 sony/linn style hinges which have a spring built in each. They work fine...and I didn't have to drill holes in my nice new lid. You need three to support the lid weight. The solution for you would be to fit them on the back where your lid is undamaged.
Click to expand...

That’s very sensible, and probably what I’d do with a new lid. But now the structural integrity of mine has been compromised I don’t think I’d be happy with any solution without strengthening it again first.

It does seem an odd design that has such forces in those rods and on the cover most of the time. When you say ‘it doesn’t work’ do you mean the lid won’t fully close? That’s the problem I can picture - even with the little adjusters on the centre hinge - and I imagine the lid on mine cracked when someone tried to force it shut.
 
That sounds right, there is too much torque in those rods. Mine never closed right.
 
Thanks, I’ve ordered some of that. I’ve already gone through the polishing process once from 600 grit all the way up to car polish. Not bad for a first attempt by a novice, but someone who knew what they were doing would probably give me 3/10. So I’m going to start again now I have a better idea of what I’m doing, and the Greygate should have arrived by the time I’m ready for it.

I’ve also found a local metal supplier who will cut me some aluminium of the correct size for the bracing bars at a very good price, so things are moving along.

I think my 125 once had a dustbug type device attached as there is a slight discoloration on the subchassis where madmike’s is in the photo above. Any ideas what I might use to get rid of that?
 
Howard's Restor-A-Finish certainly does look the business for wood restoration, however, the Dustbug type devices are usually attached to the enamelled chassis plate of TD-125 via a black rubber suction cup that bleeds into the finish over many years.

I would try a drop of white/clear vinegar, large enough to cover the discolouration, leaving it on for an hour, wipe dry, and repeat as necessary.
 
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