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The heel of Italy

Cheese

Bitter lover
Hi all,

A few months ago, I asked here what I should see and do around Naples/Capri for the 50th of my Beloved who must not be obeyed. Thanks to all of you for your information, our trip was booked and paid for, but Covid-19 made us stay home.

Now I'd like to schedule the event for 2021. In the meantime, too many people told me how ****ed up Capri was nowadays, and that Naples was very interesting for the various fragrances of its rotting trash bags.

Looking at the map, I might change my plans and opt for a place more down south, in Puglia or Calabria. Mafia is there for sure, but I don't expect tourists to be too much affected by it, as long as they shut up and bring in foreign currency. What we like is Italianità, dirty markets where people shout around, simple but honest trattorias, dreadful table wine served by the Mamma, dusty roads in towns where there is not a lot to do apart from loving the place. My Beloved one has a particular affinity for sort-of-forgotten towns whose Glory has long gone, like Brighton or Blackpool in the UK, or Deauville/Trouville in France. If we find something like this in Italy we'll be delighted.

On Google maps, Lecce looks like a good starting point, with beaches and sights easily attainable by bus, provided they are not 'broken' or on strike. What do you think ?

As usual, thank you for your information !
 
Don't worry about the mafia.

Lecce is lovely, we used it as a base for exploring. Try to get to Otranto - the mosaic floor in the church is one of my highlights of Italy generally. Brindisi is a bit squalid, but being an old port, has a lot of historic stuff in it.

We also stayed in Martina Franca further north, as that's another good base for exploring the trulli.

Worth a trip down to Santa Maria di Leuca just to see the end of the world.

Don't make the mistake that I almost did. The Italian Gallipoli has nothing to do with ANZACs!
 
Interesting that someone wary of the Mafia would have been happy going to Naples home of the Camorra...
 
Don't make the mistake that I almost did. The Italian Gallipoli has nothing to do with ANZACs!
Thanks Nero, that's a good start. I've never heard about the Trulli ! But I didn't understand the quoted sentence !
 
Why not consider Sicilia. A whole island to explore and just so many ancient sites etc.

In '63 or thereabouts, after 3 months away on a Lambretta and most of that living in olive groves in Corfu and Parga, my friend and I arrived at Otranto on our way back to London. We were met by a friendly Italian who invited us to a 4 hour lunch in his home, lent us his beach hut to sleep in and pointed us to a mechanic in Lecce to get my machine fixed. Lovely memories, but we were very glad to finally get home via the French Alps in an ailing 150cc scooter
 
Thanks Nero, that's a good start. I've never heard about the Trulli ! But I didn't understand the quoted sentence !
Well, Gallipoli (in Turkey) was the site of a terrible military failure which cost a huge loss of life, many amongst the Antipodeans. Our friend Churchill took a lot of the responsibility.

I planned a visit to Gallipoli (in Italy) until I realised it wasn't the right one!
 
I spent a fortnight in the region about 8 years ago. I'm struggling to remember the names of places other than those already mentioned, and matera.

I liked it and think it has some of what you seek but it can be a little jarring in places. Eg endless industrial estates or facilities suddenly followed by a lovely town or olive groves.Its true of many places I suppose but it stood out.

We stayed in a converted trullo with a pool. Luckily the the outside space was great as inside they are tiny. We took it in turns to enter the kitchen! Generally better to look at than to stay in.
 
Yes, Matera is worth a visit. It's incredible that most of the inhabitants at one time lived in caves until recently. With their animals. They were moved out into new flats, and of course, the authorities hadn't factored in the co-habiting cattle

I agree with @roman about the jarring industrialisation - but there are some real jewels. I forgot to mention Trani on the coast - lovely church and harbour. I can't comment on beaches as it's not our thing
 
Yes, Matera is worth a visit. It's incredible that most of the inhabitants at one time lived in caves until recently. With their animals. They were moved out into new flats, and of course, the authorities hadn't factored in the co-habiting cattle

I agree with @roman about the jarring industrialisation - but there are some real jewels. I forgot to mention Trani on the coast - lovely church and harbour. I can't comment on beaches as it's not our thing
Worth adding that it's more of a whitewashed look rather than honey coloured stone etc you might find further north.
 
I was just browsing the photos we took in Otranto in 2010, and found this one of the Chapel of the Martyrs. 400 locals were beheaded by the Saracens in 15th century for not renouncing Christianity. All the bits are stored behind the altar.

50046904051_a15698d007_b.jpg

Funny old thing religion
 
Hi all,

What we like is Italianità, dirty markets where people shout around, simple but honest trattorias, dreadful table wine served by the Mamma, dusty roads in towns where there is not a lot to do apart from loving the place.!


Manfredonia (Puglia) maybe -- though it's a few years since I was last there.
 
Done Sicily three times so far, and will go back anytime. Wonderful variety of places and things to do
Sicilian history is amazing. Over the centuries it's been settled by the Phoenicians, ruled by Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Normans, the Spanish and finally, following Garibaldi's intervention, Italy. The various rulers have all left their mark in its architecture and it's cuisine.
 
Sicilian history is amazing. Over the centuries it's been settled by the Phoenicians, ruled by Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, Normans, the Spanish and finally, following Garibaldi's intervention, Italy. The various rulers have all left their mark in its architecture and it's cuisine.

You forgot the Vikings. They slotted in between the Arabs and the Normans.
 
I can recommend Calabria, I don't know Puglia. However, for all the things you mention, like good food served with bloody awful wine that they make in the back garden, dusty towns with nothing going on, dogeared former tourist attraction s, Calabria has it all. Every so often you find a place where they have got their shit together, but mostly it's like Mablethorpe trying to compete with Spain. Go for it, it has its charms.

Edit, fly to Lamezia out of Stansted, Napoli is 3 hours away and, trust me, you don't want to drive in Napoli. Unless you can hire a tank, in which case crack on.

Edit 2, don't worry about the Mafia. They don't bother tourists.
 


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