Tannoys always full of surprises...

[cooky1257]

Tony's sounded very nice. I suppose it depends how loud you listen, low level wont excite any back panel resonance/rattles but start pumping some pressure into the enclosure and the non linearities through leaks will make themselves know. The front gaskets on Gold/HPD's only have about 2-3mm of foam proud of the aluminium frame clamps and 'over-tightening' the drivers could well compress them to the extent these thin 'U' section clamps are hard against the baffle to the detriment of the overall presentation. Front mounted, they definitely benefit from a gasket attached to the rear of the basket flange.

 

[Hooch500]

OK I managed to get a look at one of the drivers, at least as far as taking the HF unit out. Looks like the magnet gap around the pepper pot is not equal. Looking at the coil on the HF unit there has been some rubbing on the inside of membrane. I really didn't go any further. No pictures, they are the original type with paper washers.

 

[Tony L]

That sounds like it could well be your problem. I believe it is fixable, though Frank is way better qualified to advise here as really I’ve only done the simple stuff. I’ve no idea how you’d actually do it, or whether it would need remagnetising afterwards.

 

[Hooch500]

That sounds like it could well be your problem. I believe it is fixable, though Frank is way better qualified to advise here as really I’ve only done the simple stuff. I’ve no idea how you’d actually do it, or whether it would need remagnetising afterwards.

Thanks Tony

 

[Johnjo]

Love these. Is there much difference in the delivery of these compared to the Ardens Frank?
Are the drivers rear mounted in them?
Getting close to finalising my proper cabinet build for my 385s but really enjoying my tall Arden sized knock up jobs. Just wondering about going that bit larger to this size - what are they 230L?
Thanks, John.

 

[cooky1257]

Love these. Is there much difference in the delivery of these compared to the Ardens Frank?
Are the drivers rear mounted in them?
Getting close to finalising my proper cabinet build for my 385s but really enjoying my tall Arden sized knock up jobs. Just wondering about going that bit larger to this size - what are they 230L?
Thanks, John.

I kept the Amesburys stock so the driver was rear mounted. They had a slightly looser/less controlled deep bass and perhaps a tad more congested in the lower mids but other than that not much between them-I could easily live with both.

 

[Mike P]

I believe the Amesbury is more like 170l-180l internal volume, the same volume as the Arden. The Arden is just a touch shorter and wider and the Amesbury slightly taller and narrower but they're pretty equivalent to one another.

The Ardens aesthetically look very 70's (acres of Teak veneer and brown grilles) whereas the Amesbury has more of a late '60's era look about them.

I own Ardens and have heard Amesburys. There's not much to choose between them.

 

[Johnjo]

Thanks for the answers guys.

 

[Johnjo]

Has anybody made MDF cabs for Tannoy drivers, if so do they sound any different to plywood?
I’ve contacted Wilmslow Audio about making cabs and they as much as said they only do MDF.

 

[John]

Has anybody made MDF cabs for Tannoy drivers, if so do they sound any different to plywood?
I’ve contacted Wilmslow Audio about making cabs and they as much as said they only do MDF.

Tannoy chose high density particle board for their DMT line of studio monitors. This was a design which paid particular attention to all aspects of the loudspeaker including the cabinet.

https://www.hilberink.nl/codehans/tannoy74.htm

 

[Vinny]

Each material has its own modulus, which determines how it will flex. There is a very interesting, if lengthy and detailed, paper available online from Harmon Kardon where they experiment with stiffening, coating and filling a plastic cabinet. Just read the abstract and conclusions.

Each material would ideally need different bracing etc. for any one cabinet size/set of dimensions.

Not something that I have gone into in any great detail at all, but optimisation of any cabinet, in the absence of high powered software, would really need a suck it and see approach with sound analysis. Unless there is something that you can copy in (every) detail.

 

[Johnjo]

Each material has its own modulus, which determines how it will flex. There is a very interesting, if lengthy and detailed, paper available online from Harmon Kardon where they experiment with stiffening, coating and filling a plastic cabinet. Just read the abstract and conclusions.

Each material would ideally need different bracing etc. for any one cabinet size/set of dimensions.

Not something that I have gone into in any great detail at all, but optimisation of any cabinet, in the absence of high powered software, would really need a suck it and see approach with sound analysis. Unless there is something that you can copy in (every) detail.

Don’t really fancy the suck it and see for my final build.

Just thought Wilmslolw’s cabs looked great.

 

[cooky1257]

Tannoy chose high density particle board for their DMT line of studio monitors. This was a design which paid particular attention to all aspects of the loudspeaker including the cabinet.

https://www.hilberink.nl/codehans/tannoy74.htm

Actually the materials in the System 12 and 15 are 36 mm mdf baffle/back panels, 18 mm chipboard internal floating brace, double laminated 18 mm mdf side walls/top n bottoms, front to back ‘rails’ are 36 mm mdf.

 

[Johnjo]

Actually the materials in the System 12 and 15 are 36 mm mdf baffle/back panels, 18 mm chipboard internal floating brace, double laminated 18 mm mdf side walls/top n bottoms, front to back ‘rails’ are 36 mm mdf.

That sounds like a very solid cabinet. Bet they’re heavy!
I think the new Legacy range are MDF cabs with plywood bracing.

 

[HarryCrumb]

Frank, I hope you don't mind me posting a question on your thread, but this was a Tannoy surprise for me so it's in keeping with the spirit of the thread.


I'm wondering if anyone has experienced the 1017 crossovers? They look like HPD style switches, with the l/s posts sharing the same panel. I've got them with some LSU HF 15's, in Amesbury cabs (correctly ID'd by ( @calorgas Dave). I acquired them this summer on a bit of a blind punt, but had to put them straight in to storage due to a long drawn out house move. I can only find mention of them being paired in Lancaster cabs, so I assume a previous owner of these bodged them together.

The drivers look in very good condition, but someone made a really bad job of removing the original switches, and an even worse job of trying to fix it. My guess is that they forced the switch panel out, lifting the veneer, then tried filling that and finally putting veneer-tape over it to hide it. I've removed the tape from one and started cleaning the sticky residue off it. I haven't formulated a plan of repair yet, but there's no rush.

I'm interested to know what anyone thinks of them paired with the LSU HF 15's, or whether you think they look original or not. I'm very inexperienced here but I was expecting the toffee coloured caps, but these are clear/silver and branded RIFA.

I tried getting some contact cleaner in to the switches but even after working them a good few times, the sound quality drops when you switch or touch them. Is it possible to disassemble them without desoldering the transformers? I had a little look at doing that but they appear to be stuck to the top plastic, and I'm not sure how to remove the dials either. I assume they just pull out but I'm not going to force them without knowing.

Luckily the cabs are actually in perfectly good condition and the drivers look great from the back (hopefully from the front as well). I'm hoping that these will take centre stage in my living room when I finally move next month, with the DMT's up in the studio.

 

[HarryCrumb]

All my vinyl is in storage...just downloaded Bill Evans Symbiosis, and Julie London - Cry Me A River on digital highRes and had a proper listen, and I'm very pleased with myself. I'm done buying speakers and amps. I've got what I need. The volume dial is barely up and I'm blown away. If I spend any more money on HiFi equipment now it will only be for a 70's Japanese turntable or maybe a reel to reel player. What a joy...

 

[Marchbanks]

All my vinyl is in storage...just downloaded Bill Evans Symbiosis, and Julie London - Cry Me A River on digital highRes and had a proper listen, and I'm very please with myself. I'm done buying speakers and amps. I've got what I need. The volume dial is barely up and I'm blown away. If I spend any more money on HiFi equipment now it will only be for a 70's Japanese turntable or maybe a reel to reel player. What a joy...

Nice, Harry. Amesburys rock!

 

[HarryCrumb]

Nice, Harry. Amesburys rock!

Ah, brilliant! Yours look very much at home there.

 

[cooky1257]

Never seen that HPD style crossover with a Gold driver, there's a midway crossover that used some Gold styling cream panels but a HPD driver,

but never seen one facing the other way.....ie the gold were out of production when that black panel was introduced....silver caps appear in some later Devons /LGM's.

The auto former/inductors are wedged into place and clamp the laminations so great care need to be taken prizing them apart, the front knobs 'should' pull off. I'd try some deoxit flushed through the wafer switches first.

 

[HarryCrumb]

Never seen that HPD style crossover with a Gold driver, there's a midway crossover that used some Gold styling cream panels but a HPD driver,

but never seen one facing the other way.....ie the gold were out of production when that black panel was introduced....silver caps appear in some later Devons /LGM's.

Thanks Frank. I'll endeavour with the contact cleaner at the switches for now, and perhaps keep my eye out for some original crossovers. For experience I will try and map these ones and compare that to an original schematic. To my ears they sound great, just so long as I'm not damaging anything using the wrong ones this should be fine.