cooky1257
pfm Member
You need to measure the existing cut out, is it large enough to front mount the driver( like the Prestige range)? if yes then no modification is needed, if the driver wont fit from the front then you'll need to widen it..
Tannoys always full of surprises...
- Thread starter cooky1257
- Start date
cooky1257
pfm Member
These golds were just too hot in the energy dept with some slight hf tizz/distortion starting to irritate so
I decided to restore the tone control switches and fettle/reseat the hf dias.
Quick RTA shows pretty smooth with roll off flat and energy -1-sounds much better.
On disconnecting the driver the crossover can be heard singing away! Not sure if the source is the coils or the caps....
I decided to restore the tone control switches and fettle/reseat the hf dias.
Quick RTA shows pretty smooth with roll off flat and energy -1-sounds much better.
On disconnecting the driver the crossover can be heard singing away! Not sure if the source is the coils or the caps....
mikeyb
pfm Member
ToTo Man
the band not the dog
@cooky1257 , are you just using the internal mic or an external one? The >500Hz response looks nicely matched but the <500Hz response is out by as much as 6dB in places which, if genuine, would be quite audible? It could however just be an artefact of the measurement signal, pink noise is notorious for 'dancing around' in the bass frequencies, I find Periodic Pink Noise provides a more stable reading. IME a sine wave sweep is the most stable/accurate for LF measurements, but Pink Periodic Noise is so much more convenient as it lets you analyse the response in real time.
cooky1257
pfm Member
Internal mic-actually quite good when compared to my Dayton audio calibrated external one. As stated the drivers are out of their enclosures and as I'm only interested in the matching/results of the re-installation of the HF, LF response in this measuring situation is pretty meaningless.
I've seen the dancing LF pink noise effect myself.
Elephantears
Trunkated Aesthete
Can I just ask a slightly tangential question to you Tannoyistas. When using valve amps with HPDs (295s in my case), is the 8 Ohm tap always the best choice? I ask because I'm considering a valve amp with 4/8 taps, but in the past I've had speakers where the 4 Ohm vs 8Ohm choice became so annoying that I've had to give up and sell the amp.
Elephantears
Trunkated Aesthete
Yes, I just dread one of those situations where it's an irritating either/or and both options have their virtues. I decided when I used Harbeths, for instance, that I would only ever buy another valve amp if it a 6 Ohm tap (e.g. Unison Research). If Tannoys are more easily in the 8 Ohm camp then that's encouraging.
eastone
pfm Member
It would be interesting to know the specs for that amp at 4 ohms. If your speakers are fairly demanding the 4 ohm tap may not drive them at all, which would avoid any anxiety.
cooky1257
pfm Member
Monitor Golds now restored to standard with edition of banana posts to energy/level terminal plate, substantial front to back and side to side/top bracing with extra 300x300x18mm mdf squares sections glued to centre of any unbraced 25mm ply panels. PU10 auto adhesive used for cross bracing behind driver(DMT style), this brace is 2x19mm constrained layer mdf steel sheet sandwich with 18mm ply. Much cleaner bass mids now, cabs are solid and dead.
Grenadier_45
pfm Member
A dab of Loctite Thread lock or similar should do the trick. Make sure to get one that allows it to be undone at a later stage though.
The other way is a dab of nail varnish or paint on the screw/back plate.
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eastone
pfm Member
Superglue sounds scary given the cost of these diaphragms now. Maybe doubling up on washers would do the trick?
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Grenadier_45
pfm Member
Thread lock isn’t superglue, which I’d avoid like the plague for exactly the reasons you suggest. Also, when I say a dab, I meant it - a tiny amount on the thread is all that’s needed - don’t flood it. If it still scares you, though, there’s no harm in trying different shakeproof washer arrangements.
Tony L
Administrator
Mine, again just finger-tight, seem to stay put, though if they didn’t I think I’d just try a tiny blob of Blu-Tac. Tannoy used some kind of red paint, nail varnish or something, just a drop on the side of the screw. It is an annoyingly fiddly setting, the difference between ‘wonderful’ and ‘just totally wrong’ is very small and it is a right PITA to really pair match. I’ve got mine very good though, they do sound like a pair and thankfully seem to have stayed put or even improved in use. I’ve not had to touch them for years now.