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Tannoys always full of surprises...

Yeah, now I come to think of it I remember expecting the golds to fit straight in when I bought the cabs, maybe there was always something the seller of the cabs wasn't telling me.
When previously trying the Golds in some Devon cabs I did need to use a 5mm 'spacer' (routed out of ply) to get the Golds to fit, as the basket was a slightly different shape and wouldn't sit flush otherwise. The holes lined up correctly though. Hmm.

I can't recall if I left the original t-nuts in place but I expect I would have done, so you might be able to locate them under the 'gasket' and check for yourself.
12/3/6/9 o'clock have 5mm T-nuts, a couple of the(4) intermediate holes have some still in place...but don't line up with the Gold frame. None of this work is any more than just inconvenient but had I been made aware I'd have offered less dosh for them to cover the afternoon's graft to put them right.
 
The basket on my MG12 is larger than the HPD315, meaning the mounting holes need to drilled extremely close to the baffle opening (too close for comfort actually!), and makes fitting t-nuts an impossibility...
 
Yep, just 3 to 4mm.
I think I was even less than that on some of my drill holes, and the driver was still a very snug fit, so we ended up trying to flare the baffle cutout to preserve more baffle towards the rear. A plywood standoff ring would in hindsight probably have been a better solution.
 
I think I was even less than that on some of my drill holes, and the driver was still a very snug fit, so we ended up trying to flare the baffle cutout to preserve more baffle towards the rear. A plywood standoff ring would in hindsight probably have been a better solution.
Someone has had a go at this baffle cut out with a wood file.
 
Sub baffle/t-nut sections added(grab adhesive + not overly tight g-clamps!)

48584231256_57b3352522_z.jpg


New longer bolts sleeved before application of epoxy filler.

48584236546_d9bbe495cd_z.jpg


After drilling out 3 screws with their heads snapped off(!) that were protruding by about 1.5mm from the base of the cab and just enough to give you a nasty scratch.... I decided to fit 50mm plinths.

48584275366_9ddf91f09b_z.jpg


Proper gasket fitted

48584414402_6db9e0e6c1_z.jpg


Stink pipe port and plinth painted, tired and stained cone surface refinished (to match Monitor Gold replacement cones) a la Kenrick Sound Japan.

48584403862_72dbbe9c37_z.jpg


Much improved. Some cnc'd Tannoy lightning badges on their way from Fraserking of this parish will finish off the grills nicely.
Will do more work on the enclosures at a later date but looking much better.

48584295526_56503958e0_z.jpg
 
Sub baffle/t-nut sections added(grab adhesive + not overly tight g-clamps!)

48584231256_57b3352522_z.jpg


New longer bolts sleeved before application of epoxy filler.

48584236546_d9bbe495cd_z.jpg


After drilling out 3 screws with their heads snapped off(!) that were protruding by about 1.5mm from the base of the cab and just enough to give you a nasty scratch.... I decided to fit 50mm plinths.

48584275366_9ddf91f09b_z.jpg


Proper gasket fitted

48584414402_6db9e0e6c1_z.jpg


Stink pipe port and plinth painted, tired and stained cone surface refinished (to match Monitor Gold replacement cones) a la Kenrick Sound Japan.

48584403862_72dbbe9c37_z.jpg


Much improved. Some cnc'd Tannoy lightning badges on their way from Fraserking of this parish will finish off the grills nicely.
Will do more work on the enclosures at a later date but looking much better.

48584295526_56503958e0_z.jpg

Looking good, Frank!

I presume the MG12R cones were stock you already had as they are ridiculously expensive now from "you know who" on eBay?!

How do the drivers measure?
 
Looking good, Frank!

I presume the MG12R cones were stock you already had as they are ridiculously expensive now from "you know who" on eBay?!

How do the drivers measure?

Haha not with a 10 foot barge pole, those part salvaged 12R cones are a dog's dinner. These are the original cones, spruced up.
Quick n dirty RTA/pink noise has them pretty close match-to the extent I've no inclination to reseat the HF dias.
 
Haha not with a 10 foot barge pole, those part salvaged 12R cones are a dog's dinner. These are the original cones, spruced up.
Quick n dirty RTA/pink noise has them pretty close match-to the extent I've no inclination to reseat the HF dias.
I'd be interested to know what you did to spruce up the cones? They look jet black as if they've never been exposed to UV!

PS - How can you tell the mainlytannoy ones are part-salvaged?
 
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I'd be interested to know what you did to spruce up the cones? They look jet black as if they've never been exposed to UV!

PS - How can you tell the mainlytannoy ones are part-salvaged?
Trade secret..
He says as much in his listing, reclaimed butyl rubber surrounds,not that neatly reattached.
 
This site contains affiliate links for which pink fish media may be compensated.
Spray paint?
Too volatile/heavy? The key is for the medium to evaporate leaving only pigment behind.
Also many blacks dry with purplish tint so the right colour blend is key.
The neat thing about the Kenrick approach is the cone doesn't seem to actually get that wet, drying almost instantly.
 
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Frank, is it simple enough to add a top baffle to flush-mount Golds if the original baffle hasn’t been messed with? I’ve always been tempted to get the drivers flush on my Chatsworths but it seemed too daunting...
 
Frank, is it simple enough to add a top baffle to flush-mount Golds if the original baffle hasn’t been messed with? I’ve always been tempted to get the drivers flush on my Chatsworths but it seemed too daunting...
Yes, should be very straightforward job, the extra baffle need only be as thick as the frame depth. Measure twice, cut once.
 


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