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Tannoy Monitor Golds

Tony L said:
Yes, I plan to try that. I was planning to stick a couple of pillows behind them next time I take the backs off just to see what it does. I also intend to brace the cabs a bit as the baffle is way too thin IMO (they are an accurate York copy, i.e. just as flimsy as the real thing!).
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It would be possible to rear mount the driver onto a sub baffle and open up the existing baffle cut out to make the driver flush with the front. glueing said sub baffle to the rear of the existing would do a lot to stiffen things up too.
 
cooky1257 said:
It would be possible to rear mount the driver onto a sub baffle and open up the existing baffle cut out to make the driver flush with the front. glueing said sub baffle to the rear of the existing would do a lot to stiffen things up too.
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All sadly far beyond my skill level. I'm probably capable of gluing some 2x4" blocks to the back of the baffle wherever it will fit, and screwing a bit across the kind of partition thing in the middle of the cab (I think this will help a lot), but that's about my limit. If I want to really make the cabs better I'll simply have to commission a carpenter to make me a better pair. I'm reluctant to pay out though as currently the speakers are a good investment, i.e. I'd get back at least what I paid for them just in the drivers, I look at the cabs as being worth zero, so I'm reluctant to fling any money at them.
 
Hi Tony.

Lining the cabinets with ''dedshete'' (bitumen-backed-lead with a sticky back) is likely to improve your bass.

It's a simple DIY tweak anyone could do. You can cut the sheets with a kitchen knife.
 
Yes my brother and I designed them.Or rather tweaked the Canterbury design.We built experimental boxes in cheap 16mm ply and fine tuned these to get the size and slotted porting right.

I live in Western Australia.

The report about them is on StereoNet DIY section.

I agree that larger boxes do best suit larger rooms and placement away from walls.They will still sound very good in smaller rooms however.
The smaller boxes tend to sound a bit overdamped or choked up to me.
I also think a small amount of damping material sounds better.Another reason for a larger box.The midrange seems to sound nicer in a larger lightly damped box.

We also used a nippled rubber doormat stapled on to the inside of the rear baffle in line with the driver.I have found this simple device works really well.A cheap version of Deflex pads I suppose.

These cabinets sound far superior to GRF Rectangles which we also built.
 
I thought the problems he found were common knowledge, as a result of Tannoy using a 'Gold' crossover with a 'Monitor Gold' driver. Tannoy corrected this in later models.
 
Cooky,

If you're running Reds it worth fixing the 3 kHz peak with a notch filter?

Joe
 
Hi Joe, the notch circuit goes some way to removing the horn honk caused by the peak around 3khz-it looks reversible, cheap and simple to try if your xovers are easy to get at, I'd defo do it but would make it reversible so as not to compromise the original status of your kit.
 
Thanks, cooky.

I'll leave the original crossovers alone, but it might be worth experimenting with some external ones.

Joe
 
cooky1257 said:
Eh?

The only 'common' knowledge I can think you refer to is the lack of a HF notch filter in the Silvers and Reds.

Schematics here;

http://www.44bx.com/tannoy/TannoyXos.html
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Sorry, I will clarify after checking my information. I am getting my Monitor Golds and Monitor HPD's mixed up. Suffice to say there is more than 1 official version of both those crossovers so Gravesens findings are not that surprising in terms of component values.
 
There is only one version of Monitor Gold crossover to my knowledge:

6075540893_6f67efb9ce_o.jpg


Though there are a couple of very minor variations, e.g. some have the binding posts on the control plates (as above), and some do not, plus inevitably there were some different capacitor brands used over the course of manufacture. As far as I'm aware the component values were not altered.
 
Is there a knack to getting the crossover box open? I haven't properly tried getting into mine yet and I don't want to undo any screws that need to stay in place.
 
starbuck said:
Is there a knack to getting the crossover box open? I haven't properly tried getting into mine yet and I don't want to undo any screws that need to stay in place.
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You need to very carefully drill the rivets out, there are a few pics on page 13 of this thread (link). I'm actually back to using completely unmolested stock crossovers at present, and enjoying them very much. If you do feel like removing the level and roll-off switches, which I tried on one set, be aware it makes them a lot more bright and forward, i.e. work on at least one 'level' setting lower than you like with the switches in series. The more time I spend with Tannoys the more I feel the stock crossovers are beautifully, and very cleverly voiced, it's easy to get more detail, clarity etc, but something hard to define seems to go at the same time. Assuming your switches are in good condition I'd advise either doing nothing or at most just replacing the electrolytic cap on the bass. I'm not convinced replacing the three smaller caps brings much of a gain, and removing the switches alters the voicing somewhat.
 
Thanks for the info, and for the direct link to the pictures - saves me a lot of head scratching and thread trawling.
 
Tony L said:
You need to very carefully drill the rivets out, there are a few pics on page 13 of this thread (link). I'm actually back to using completely unmolested stock crossovers at present, and enjoying them very much. If you do feel like removing the level and roll-off switches, which I tried on one set, be aware it makes them a lot more bright and forward, i.e. work on at least one 'level' setting lower than you like with the switches in series. The more time I spend with Tannoys the more I feel the stock crossovers are beautifully, and very cleverly voiced, it's easy to get more detail, clarity etc, but something hard to define seems to go at the same time. Assuming your switches are in good condition I'd advise either doing nothing or at most just replacing the electrolytic cap on the bass. I'm not convinced replacing the three smaller caps brings much of a gain, and removing the switches alters the voicing somewhat.
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Couldn't agree more.
 
it's easy to get more detail, clarity etc, but something hard to define seems to go at the same time.
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Yes . I believe it is coherance. There are more detailed speakers here.........but on go the Tannoys in the end.
 
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