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Switching on/off with mains distribution block

spamnap

spamnap

pfm Member
Hi,
Am looking for some advice re using a mains distribution block to switch my power amp on/off.
Am considering buying a used Linn Klout amp but I don't like the idea of leaving power on and the Klout power switch is on the back of the amp. Is anyone using a switched distribution block and is it safe to do so, meaning will I risk damaging the amp?

Thanks
 
Two options - switched block or a RC plug in the wall. Various versions available - DEWENWILS Remote Control Plug Socket, 13A/3120W Heavy Duty Wireless Light Switch, 30m/100ft Long Range, Programmable, CE and RoHS Listed, 5 Pack Sockets and 2 Remotes: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools - I use a two controller version - everything but the NAS on one (which has no mains switch at all) and the NAS on the second - so simple/convenient (and bone idle :) )

A switch upstream of the amp would be no different to the mains switch in the amp. Just switch things on/off in the usual order to avoid thumps and bumps.
 
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Pain the switch is on the back but I would only use that to power on and off.
Would also avoid adding anything else in the path

Can you re arrange the power amp so it is easier to turn on and off ?
 
I switch everything on/off at the mains block. I have three of the old-style MusicWorks blocks which as just standard switched wall sockets in an (RS I think) six-way box.

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I have one of these switched blocks in each system.

Some of my kit doesn’t even have an on/off switch as it is of the era that it was powered on/off by an associated preamp (Quad & Leak), other stuff such as my DPA DAC has the switch on the back. Far more sense to just switch it all on/off at the mains block, I can still do it in appropriate sequence and decide what I want on at that time (e.g. not power up the CD and DAC if playing vinyl).

It is absolutely no issue as far as the kit is concerned, plus it saves wear on the front or back panel switch and prevents finger-marks etc.
 
mikemusic said:
Pain the switch is on the back but I would only use that to power on and off.
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I am on the same page, my amp switch is on the back but that’s what I do, pain the back and overkill or not. switching off from the block to me sounds like one is causing a power cut? then the sequence from source to power amp does matter when on and off as well.
 
sq225917 said:
Just make sure your pre isn't in the same block, power amps off first and switch on last.
Click to expand...

This is why I use and would recommend an individually switched block. It enables correct switch-on/off sequence, plus only powering up the parts of the system currently being used. By coincidence my amps are all really well behaved without pops or thumps, but many are not.
 
I find valve stuff fussy over switch on, the slow start I think is compromised and my fono stage sets off vitus protection circuit if switched off first.
 
Frizzy said:
I find valve stuff fussy over switch on, the slow start I think is compromised and my fono stage sets off vitus protection circuit if switched off first.
Click to expand...

I can’t think of any reason that would be the case unless the valve kit actually has a ‘standby’ switch the way of some guitar amps. Certainly just about all classic valve amps (Quad, Leak etc) had no power switch and were wired to the preamp’s switched connection, i.e. exactly the same logically as throwing a switch on the mains block.

Switch-on/off sequence can be very important though and I’d not recommend just banging the whole system on/off at the wall. I’m arguing for individually switched mains blocks here. Correct sequence is to power on the source, then preamp, and finally the power amp, and to power off in the reverse order.

PS If you are getting a loud pop from any item there may be an issue with a suppression cap somewhere.
 
There’s a note in ‘audio valve’ manual saying switch off last. Not sure why, the valve output brinkmann dac is silent when switching on or off.
I will email audiovalve to check but it had a full service 18months ago.
 
I've been switching on/off using individually switched distribution blocks and/or wall switches for the last few years as it's far more convenient and reduces wear and tear that results from physically pushing/rocking the switches on the hifi components. I only wish my Mac Mini could be powered on/off this way so that I could tuck it away deep in my hifi rack instead of having to keep it within arms reach!...

Question for the gurus: On those hifi components that have on/off switches, either on the front or the rear, is it a good idea to 'exercise them' once in a while instead of always switching on/off further upstream, so that the arcing doesn't cause them to seize in the 'on' position, or am I worrying about a problem that doesn't exist?
 
I wouldn’t have thought there would be any arcing as the contact is already fully ‘made’. To my understanding any arcing only occurs as a switch is actually moving from off to on, i.e. has a less than perfect electrical contact in that intermediate position.

If the switch is already badly worn or damaged, e.g. the incorrectly specified and bad switch that was fitted to my Stereo 20 when I bought it, then yes, you might get random arcing. It took me ages to figure out it was a cause of a highly annoying random noise with that amp! That switch was simply not right for the voltage/amperage and should never have been installed there at all. I can’t see it happening with a properly specified switch.
 
ToTo Man - I once rang up Naim service dept. about something else. Upon hearing that my system had been powered up continuously for years, the guy suggested that I unplug everything and switch switches repeatedly.Even the sockets on the wall. The action of switching switches would improve the sound he said. To my surprise I found he was right...
 
The Klout has remote switching if your preamp is compatible. The switch on the back has 3 options, on, off, standby.
 
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