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Stripping a 90s LP12 black ash plinth?

Dowser

Learning to bodge again..
I recently picked up a cheap black ash LP12 plinth, serial number 842xx so I assume 90s?

I don’t like the black finish, but it was cheap enough for me to experiment with (I have a 77 fluted afromosia LP12). How do I best strip it? Paint stripper and then sanding? Anyone done similar? Tried a search but didn’t find photos to see what the raw wood looks like.

Thanks, Richard
 
Ash has open grain the black paint will be difficult to remove from the grain, think snooker cues.
Lots of sanding will be needed enough to alter the size of the plinth.
My vote would be a light sand and some satin black from a rattle can.

Pete
 
Look at a couple of threads about refinishing NS1000M speakers. These are also black ash, so a similar process.
 
Used paintstripper and a scraper on a black PT1 frame some years ago - then waxed it - worked out well - still have it to this day.
 
The sanding involved to take it right back to the wood will always take some sharpness away from the edges and corners. Those features are fundamental to the look and you can't get them back. I know I did it and was never happy with it despite the nice finish.
 
The sanding involved to take it right back to the wood will always take some sharpness away from the edges and corners. Those features are fundamental to the look and you can't get them back. I know I did it and was never happy with it despite the nice finish.

As above.

Strip it and then use a super sharp plane to remove the ingrained black and then carefully sand by hand with a block and some 180 grit paper
Just be very careful planing across the mitred corners as you may get break out - best to come in from each end .
You will need to be fairly competent not to ruin it mind you.
 
You might find once you’ve exposed the surface grain that you like what’s left and can now call it the “burnt ash” effect ;)
 
Thanks all! TimH - to be honest that is what I was thinking...either that or spray it a gloss white and suffer the negative feedback :)

As for reselling it - it’s not really viable, it cost me chf 30 here in CH, but there’s no market here hence the cheap price. Selling to a larger market in UK or EU means import duties and high shipping fees are attracted. Just not worth it in the end.

I think I try paint stripper first - then decide on whether to wax at that level, or spray it gloss white (not sooo bad, it has a Mission 774 on it, I reckon it’ll kind of work...)
 
You can use the paint left in the grain as a feature. I did one with 600 grit wet and dry paper ,a rubber block and water and have to say it looks really good with just a coat or 2 of clear varnish.
 
I think Rob Holt had a pair of Linn Kan speakers which had been stripped and sanded. Dark areas remained and they looked stunning. Many thought that they were a rare hardwood finish.
 
No need to strip the paint just keep the paper wet so the paint does not clog it up and keep flatting it off as they say in the motor trade.
 
No need to strip the paint just keep the paper wet so the paint does not clog it up and keep flatting it off as they say in the motor trade.

To be clear, I have zero skills in this space... You’re suggesting I should use wetted sand paper (actually, you say wet & dry?) to remove the painted surface instead of stripper? What grade of sand paper? My preference would be to strip the black off and see if I liked what I assume will be a black grained wood as a result - if I like it then oil it. If I don’t then respray in gloss white, orange (one day I will order orange fabric sock replacements for my 63s :)) or kwaka green. I think my preference would be gloss white though, my first proper TT was a gloss white plinthed SOTA.

If sanding, I’d be concerned about rounding edges off - I assume just use a sanding block and be careful?

Thanks (from a complete woodworking numpty!)
 
Wet and Dry refers to a type of sandpaper which can be used wet or Dry. Used wet it tends towards a finer finish and gives a sludge to wipe off rather than masses of dust to get everywhere.
Link
 
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A rubber flatting off block is best as the paper is fitted to it with spikes, it wont round the edges /corners off unless you want it to.

I you want it white use the block/paper and remove about half the black to lessen the grooves in the black,then spray it with a few coats of primer to build it up ,leave to harden and sink for a week ,spray it with a cover coat of black again and flat it off again .once the cover coat has flatted through it will show up all the grain faults in the wood, keep flatting until it is all the colour of the primer, then it is ready for its finishing coats.
 


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