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Stack Audio LP12 Sub-chassis

I mean, once the initial CAD work is done it's just a case of chucking a billet in the machine and hitting go, surely? Money for jam.

I do believe the machining process of the one piece sub and arm-board can be a days work per unit as it is slowly milled for precision I believe, then it has to be anodised etc. Tonearms take a lot of hand assembly on top of the parts manufacture. So I believe they are more labour intensive to produce.No doubt John Nilsen from Audio Origami could enlighten us on that score....
 
The Linn Kore is available in Rega fit version.

The Majik sub-chassis extends under the arm fixing point so you are effectively bolting the arm directly to the sub-chassis with the arm board like a big washer in between them. I expect that to be good but different, possibly better? Depending on what you want. As you progress up the sub-chassis ladder they all stiffen up that joint.

The Majik is a box made of thin aluminium where as the stack is a machined thicker single piece. I'm inclined to think they are different rather than one being massively better than the other. I did consider the Majik but did not want to commit to a Linn arm.
 
The Linn Kore is available in Rega fit version.

Yes but if you buy the Linn Kore Rega Fit version and then later want to fit a Linn tonearm, do you not have to sell the Linn Kore Rega Fit version you had previously purchased and then by the Linn tonearm version instead ?
 
I delivered my old Sondek (which I bought in 1984) to Infidelity today. A decade ago I decided to cease upgrading and spend no more money on it because I wasn't that impressed with the Keel/Radikal/EkosSE upgrades. But a Stack sub-chassis and a Karousel are more affordable and for the first time in a decade I'm tempted to spend a bit on the old girl. The other day I had a chat with the proprietor of Stack who is charming and who inspired my confidence. I would now be able to justify the spend as product research ;-)

Hitesh noticed that my Sondek's bearing was pre-Cirkus, to my surprise. I was certain that I had upgraded. Then I remembered that when I decided not to fork out for the Klimax upgrades I took the deck back to its lowest configuration with a view to selling the more valuable parts. I have a Cirkus bearing and sub-platter sitting in a box somewhere. A Stack and Karousel would still allow me to sell the now ubiquitous Cirkus kit.

Stop me from climbing back onto the Sondek upgrade ladder after a decade with no upgraditis! ;-)

Looks likes it’s too late as it seems you’ve already proceeded. How do you think the bearing and subchassis will fix speed stability which you seem to be sensitive to?

https://pinkfishmedia.net/forum/thr...eir-old-belt-drive.248761/page-2#post-4184234
 
It certainly would be if that’s what it was. As it’s actually milled from solid billet I’d say it’s just expensive.




At £2200 I’d have thought the pu7 too rich for your blood. I’d be interested in the actual sales figures you’re privy to, because i believe the reality is somewhat the reverse of your assertion. Personally id have an ittok over a pu7.

You have to be joking! Seriously?
 
Si, Dougie once said to me that whilst he thought his PU7 was ok he would have been just as happy with his old Ittok back.
 
Maybe the dealer in question is massively more experienced and capable than you are.

And he was giving you good, well informed advice.

My own dealer has set up tens of thousands of LP12s and has heard every combination of third party parts hundreds of times over in every possible domestic setting with every possible type of ancillary.

But having heard one subchassis in combination with one arm , you probably know best.

So your dealer is God as opposed to a biased dealer? You don't half slaver some s... Being a mere mortal I've only serviced, sold or set up dozens of LP 12s over the years. In every instance, Linn arms have done nothing for me that can't be achieved much cheaper using Mission, Rega, Zeta, Kuzma, Well Tempered, Roksan or any Syrinx arms and God forbid Aros before they started fetching ludicrous prices. All of which were bought used, way cheaper than any ancient knackered Ittok. As to an Ittok bettering a PU 7, deary me. Only Linn ever stayed long was a fully funked one, sacrilidge until Linn copied all Arthur's ideas at multiples of the price. Thankfully never felt the need to mess with my Oracle picked up for $500 :)
 
I have a plan to reclaim my invention from the Thorens 1601 ;-)

A long time ago I successfully tested the Kleat, i.e. two pieces of gaffer tape and some thread, which did a great job of stabilising the sub-chassis in the way that Linn's thick arm cables used to do. This time, if I go ahead, I'm going to make a more permanent invisible structure.

Ah yes, the crucial thick arm cable. What was Linn thinking with the Urika.

urika.jpg
 
Ah yes, the crucial thick arm cable. What was Linn thinking with the Urika.
I have been doing some testing over the last month specifically comparing speed of some of my suspended decks with 3 of my direct drives and reached the conclusion that there is no additional rotational instability caused by belt to sub chassis interaction on the suspended decks. Whatever problem people believed they were hearing is almost certainly down to something else.

The accessible guidelines and manuals I have located so far do strongly recommend that the cable is dressed so it neither pushes or pulls on the sub chassis.

The Linn setup manuals at Vinyl Engine are in line with the copy of the manual here

https://theanalogdept.com/linn_lp-12.htm

35) Plug the cable into the arm, allowing enough slack so that the cable is not pulling on the suspension; but not so much that the cable can sag and rest on the bottom board of the turntable or push on the suspension.

38) Unplug the arm cable from the bottom of the arm. The position of the armboard should not change whether the cable is plugged in or unplugged, since this could indicate that the arm cable is pushing or pulling on the suspension. If the armboard is being pulled slightly, it is usually possible to correct this without completely re-dressing the cable by grasping the cable firmly between thumb and forefinger next to the P-clip, and pulling firmly down its entire length towards the plug. This will usually straighten it enough to correct the problem. If the armboard is being pushed slightly, it can be corrected by turning the P-clip EVER SO SLIGHTLY by pushing on it with your thumb while tightening the nut that holds it. This will rotate it a slight bit and pull on the arm cable. If this will not correct the problem, you will have to redress the cable, per steps 35 and 36.

The Peter Swain set up manual has the following which appears to line up with the Linn manuals.

"Additionally, the cable attachment at the p-clip wants to be very secure indeed IMHO, so as to
avoid any unwanted movement of the dressed part of the arm-lead within the deck, additionally the
dressing/positioning of this cable should be so it causes no resistance to suspension movement at
all, and hence no effect on suspension movement whatsoever, and we want to keep it that way!"

However Mr Pig got involved with a discussion at another forum here

https://www.lejonklou.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5626

ThomasOK a well respected US dealer was arguing in line with the Peter Swain approach. The forum owner came back with the following which implies at least one person employed by Linn in the 90s was promoting the concept that the arm cable prevented rotational movement

"When I took Linns courses in the LP12 and system installation in the early 90's, I was told that the arm cable orientation prevented rotational movement of the subchassis, exactly as Mr Pig has suggested in this thread. A proper arm dressing should both stop the subchassis from oscillating horizontally and let it move freely along the vertical axis."
 
I have been doing some testing over the last month specifically comparing speed of some of my suspended decks with 3 of my direct drives and reached the conclusion that there is no additional rotational instability caused by belt to sub chassis interaction on the suspended decks.

I don't agree with that. It varies from deck to deck but you can hear it quite easily on the right (wrong) tracks. Solid plinth decks, even belt drive ones, have better speed stability than the LP12.
 


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