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Stack Audio LP12 Sub-chassis

Mr Pig

^'- -'^
Just bought a Stack Audio TENOR LP12 sub-chassis and thought I'd share initial thoughts.

I bought it direct from the web site and it arrived today. A sheet of aluminium that is CNCed for the bearing, grommets and arm-board fixing. It comes with an earth strap pre-installed and can be supplied with a spacer so it can take, pre-Cirkus, Cirkus and Karousel bearings. It can also take a Linn arm-board or one of Stack's own which locates on inserts to improve alignment and rigidity.

It's very well made, black anodized, but the most unusual feature is the constrained layer damping. An alloy plate is fixed in a recess machined into most of the underside. The fit is perfect and it's perfectly level with the surface of the sub-chassis. What's invisible is the viscous damping layer between the plate and the sub-chassis.

And of course it's dead flat! If you've never built an LP12 you may not realize what a big deal that can be but Linn's steel ones are often not very flat, and it's a pain.

Why did I buy this? I enjoyed the musicality of my old LP12 but technically it was well off the pace, the RP10 left it for dead in Hi-Fi terms, so I want to try and move my LP12 on a bit. I don't want to change too much at once though, as then you'll have no idea what is contributing what. I could have gone for a more advanced PSU, like the Lingo 4, but I decided on the sub-chassis for a few reasons. One is that it's hard to change later if you don't like it. A motor and PSU is quite easy. Another is that it's cheap.

Second hand the going rate for a Cirkus sub-chassis is about £150. This is a thin folded sheet of steel which is basically identical to the one the LP12 started life with in the early seventies except for the addition of a steel brace.

The next Linn chassis up is the Majik, which is fairly thin sheet aluminium folded into a box. I quite fancied this but it's £330 and incorporates an arm fixing point so you are tied to a Linn arm. I want to use a Rega arm initially at least.

The first CNCed alloy sub-chassis from Linn is the Kore which is £800. It does include a bonded arm-board but damn, £800!! Plus, I actively want to retain the 'wood' arm-board initially for continuity.

So the TENOR is a CNCed sub-chassis for £200, only £50 more than used Cirkus one. Yeah, I'll take a punt on that. Apart from this sub-chassis the deck will be pretty similar to something I've had in the past and with over thirty years of LP12 ownership and experience I'm hoping I'll get a good idea of what the sub-chassis is adding, or taking away! Probably be a few weeks until I nail the deck together, still a few bits to get, but I'll update the thread as things progress.
 
Finally got the LP12 built up last night. Hit a couple of snags and a couple of things I'll still need to sort out later but it's up and running. Early days but so far I'm very happy. I reckon the sub-chassis contributes a lot to the sound and certainly isn't doing any harm. Nothing weird going on, just sounds like a good LP12 should. I was worried it might change the character of the deck and take away from what I like the LP12 for. Really pleased that's not the case.

The sub-chassis certainly made the build easier. Everything fits perfectly and the attention to detail is nice. For example there are two options for the position of the sub-chassis ground wire, one might be better than the other depending on what other bits you've got inside the deck. Being really flat helps so much! getting the bounce was easier than usual. I checked the arm azimuth once it was together and it was perfect. Sounds trivial but I reckon that's the first time I've seen that on an LP12.

I'll update on the sound once it's run in a bit and I'm more familiar with it but straight out of the jig it's lovely. Looking good.
 
Still far and away best mod on my 77 LP12 was fitting a decent sub chassis - mine was ages ago, choices were limited and being a miser I ended up buying the prototype Sole mule. But I reckon any of the aftermarket items will have a similar effect - much more definition within each note, more extended frequencies, and without losing anything of the Linn character (which I was also concerned about).

oh, and you know a thread like this without pictures is worthless? :)
 
The Stack Audio updates seem well made & of a reasonable cost. I my still end up buying a Kore but will be interested to know ho this all ends up
 
Aye, pics or it never happened

I've posted some on the Linn Sondek LP12 Facebook group. This forum is unusual in that you can't upload pictures directly to it. You need to host them somewhere and link to them but let's see if I can link to a couple of the Facebook images.

Yeah, so far I'm pleased with things. All upsides and not really any downsides. And the value is excellent. With most LP12 upgrades costing silly money a brand new alloy sub-chassis for £200 seems great. And sonically it seems like money well spent too.

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You posted that last pic as I was writing so I’ll just add how nice that deck looks with the Rega arm and all.
 
You posted that last pic as I was writing so I’ll just add how nice that deck looks with the Rega arm and all.

I wore white cotton gloves while fitting it! The grease from yous fingers eats into bare alloy over time and leaves marks you can't get off.

Anyone who thinks that Rega arms don't work on the old Linn are so wrong. The rules are different but get it right and they are great. I don't know why you'd want a forty year old Ittok when you can have this. OK, I do. The Ittok is a great arm and looks fantastic but as good as a top Rega? Don't think so.

The RB2000 and 3000 are also light arms. If you know a bit about the LP12 you'll know that's a good thing. Not only is it easier to set the thing up but there seems to be more of a rightness to the sound of an LP12 with a lighter arm.
 
The armboard holes look big and why is it white inside the hole?

The holes are about the same size as the holes on a Linn sub-chassis. The outer hole has the anodizing removed around the hole so that you'll get a good ground if you use metal arm-board. Longer arm-board screws and washers are supplied to suit the thicker sub-chassis.

The top picture shows the Stack audio ground lead which arrives pre attached. It is thicker and softer than a standard Linn one. I decided not to use as it looked like it might droop over time, I used a Linn one. Maybe it would be fine but I used a Linn one because I know it will be fine,
 
Mr Pig, my AO’d Ittok was left behind by an Audiomods Rega so I sold it on with no regrets. One thing I will say is that the Ittok had a fit and finish that the Rega could never get close to. My Linn now has a modded RB300 sitting in the corner. I sold the Audiomods as I couldn’t get on with the blingy holes in the arm tube!
I usually polish bare alloy with good quality bees wax and it seems to work well enough.
 
Any pictures of the finished deck from the underside?

it's a new-style arm cable clamp, which I must admit I think is very good. Standard Rega M4 arm mounting bolts were too short so I had to grab some bolts from B&Q and file the heads down to fit. The correct bolts are ordered.

Came up with a good way to dress the arm cable! Works really well. You can't see it very well unfortunately.

The Majik PSU was intended as a stop gap just to get the deck up and running but I'm not disappointed with it.


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Looking at the website, they mention a material AVDC incorporated into the subchassis It’s hard to tell from the pictures where that is used?
 
My AO’d Ittok was left behind by an Audiomods Rega so I sold it on with no regrets.

I loved the look of my Ittok but a stripped and rewired RB300 beat it and I've never considered owning a Linn arm since. Ok, to the purist an LP12 looks less 'correct' without a Linn arm on but performance per pound matters more to me.
 
Looking at the website, they mention a material AVDC incorporated into the subchassis It’s hard to tell from the pictures where that is used?

The shaped insert you can see is an alloy plate. It is sandwiched between that plate and the sub-chassis so you can't see it. When tapped the sub-chassis sounds very inert. I was concerned that it might sound dead too, rob the deck of life. Happily, that is not the case.
 
“ Sounds trivial but I reckon that's the first time I've seen that on an LP12.” That’s astonishing given it’s one of the basic setup parameters of a cartridge.
 
That’s astonishing given it’s one of the basic setup parameters of a cartridge.

The pressed steel sub-chassis are rarely perfectly flat. They can be crazy out. Linn supply a tool to bend the sub-chassis at the bearing mounting to line it up with the arm board.

The arm board is also a point of error. When the screws go in they pull up little lands around the hole which stop the board siting flat on the sub-chassis. You need to test fit the screws then trim off the lands to make sure the underside of the arm board is flat. Even then any unevenness on the sub-chassis can throw it out. You really need to mount the arm-board and bearing/sub-platter to the sub-chassis off the deck and check they're level with each other. They're usually not.

And once you get your platter and arm-board level, there is no guarantee the grommet holes are and there is pretty much nothing you can do about that. An error here and it can make getting the suspension to behave properly difficult.

An alloy sub-chassis eliminates these problems and makes setting the deck up easier.
 


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