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split earth 'mod' for the Mk II NAP160

coltrane

electrobaroCKjazzer
as above, owning a specimen of the later 160 with separate windings/rectifiers/earth wiring/cap pairs for each channel, having read and done the Mr. Tibbs mod for the Hi-Cap (amazing, many thanks Mr. Tibbs) this power amp just laid itself for a similar tweak, though this time much simpler.
that is, all earth wires are soldered on a wire bar between the 0 (or 'negative') speaker output connectors. dunno why Naim chose to do so as this later 160 is almost a perfect dual-mono amp (for which only the signal earths should be separated), so I decided to take a punt and see, err, hear, what comes out of it.
the 'mod' itself is pretty straightforward and easy: you only need to cut the wire bar in the middle leaving 3-3 earth wires on both remaining sides of it, and you're done. no soldering, no rewiring, nothing extra needed to be done - provided Naim employees built these later 160s all the same. that is, in my amp the 3-3 earth wires were spaced 'properly', so on both sides of the wire bar the 3 earth wires go to the same channel - it should be checked, though, before deciding all's done and switching the amp on.
also, when cutting the wire bar use a sharp pinchers, and although the soldered bar looks to be impenetrable to it, it's not so, the solder Naim used is very soft, so you can do it. moreover, if you feel like the operating space for the pinchers isn't enough feel free and bend that wire bar gently, it's flexible.
to add, when finished make sure that the earth wirings for the two channels don't touch.
and the result? much more music with smoother, more natural, transparent and detailed sonics, quicker attack (PRaT if you like), and deeper, more airy and better-defined soundstaging. not a heaven-and-earth difference, though, but an easily discernible one that's pretty much worth doing. good luck, lads :)
 
Being also the owner of one of these I'm rather interested in this mod. However, I once read of someone who did something similar and then had stability problems. On the face of it this shouldn't happen, but if a setup is marginal small changes can have unexpected consequences. Any signs of distress from your amplifier?
 
it's 4 days now w/o any (negative) issues - hence I ventured to post the above (though was sure from the off that no harm should happen)
 
We think it's probably OK, but I'd want to check the noise level on the outputs and for any signs of instability. One thing we tend to do with amps of this vintage is what we call the T bar mod to the bus bar between the caps. The transformer centre tap feeds both caps equally and the earth reference for the boards is Tee'd off that. Naim used this arrangement in the CDI for example.
 
thanks for the input, Mark. I don't have a proper measuring instrumentation (e.g. oscilloscope) at hand but the amp's been surely working with no issues, as I say, for days, and sounds really sublime (with the aforementioned Mr. Tibbs Hi-Cap mod).
of the earth reference point, in the Mk II version of the 160 that I wrote about and as detailed above, there're everything 2x as compared to the MkI model> 2x the wiring and earth for the separate power feeds for each cannel, 2x rectifiers, 2x 2 caps for the 2 channels. so the earth reference points remain at the same place where they were for each channel for only the wire bar connecting the 2 channels at the 0 speaker terminals is cut, everything else remains the same. I can't insert a photo here but I believe it's really as simple as described in the 1st post.
 
just to clarify Mark, please. that is, by your above post do you mean that the earth wire for one channel from the DIN input of the proper board, the earth wire from the related side of the transformer, and the earth wire that goes to the 0 speaker terminal should meet on the wire bar between the 2 caps for the specific channel, and from that bar an earth wire should go to the 0 speaker terminal (with obviously no other wire bar)? if yes, it's then almost the same as what I did, but with these slight tweaks there's less chance of any added noise is what you mean (that I still can't experience)? please confirm - thanks. FYI here's a link to a 160 MkII that's built like mine> https://www.ukaudiomart.com/details...amplfier-scarce-chrome-bumper/images/2113476/
 
as a back-up, I in the meantime did what Mark suggested, that is, that 'T bar mod', and the 160 is even more transparent and smooth with deeper and more delineated bass than before - thanks for sharing this, Mark, much appreciated
 
Just to clarify do you mean you've now got both the cut between the LS terminals AND the T wiring referred to by MJS?

Is the T mod just moving the existing capacitor wiring or does something new need to be added?
 
I have a mk2 160 and have often thought that the Ov points are not on bus bars between the caps . It would mean rewiring most of the amp

to correct this though.
 
Just to clarify do you mean you've now got both the cut between the LS terminals AND the T wiring referred to by MJS?

Is the T mod just moving the existing capacitor wiring or does something new need to be added?

yes, as my 160 is an Mk2 one I did the cut between the 0 (black) speaker terminals, and also did the 'T mod' as Mark advised. that is, I moved both the earth wires from the inputs, and from the speaker outputs, on the main PCB to the T bars of each capacitor pair, and soldered these to both sides of the existing wiring (from the transfomer and speaker terminals) there. then I direct soldered the one earth wire that comes from the middle of the T-bar to the related side speaker 0 terminal (after removing the wire piece where the earths were originally soldered to there). to note, I had to lengthen the earth wires for the right channel (the one that's closer to the transformer) as they wouldn't reach the related T bar, but from the 2 lengths of surplus wire one gets after the mod it was no problem
 


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