Sound Advice - Ortofon 2m Black

[Big Tabs]

Please keep comments to the point. I struggle to understand jargon, and often miss the meaning of sarcastic etc comments. I have brain damage and take things very literally.

I want to upgrade my cartridge. This has been on the cards for several years but I have little confidence re: setting up a new cartridge.
Life would be easier if my tonearm had a removable headshell, but it does not.

My current system: Heybrook TT2 S2 deck, this has the cast aluminium chassis.
It was upgraded a few years ago by Robert at Inspire hifi. It now has an acrylic armboard and an offboard Heed PSU.
The tonearm is an Origin Live Onyx with cable upgrade, this is a one piece arm, i.e. no removable headshell.

For years now I have been using a Goldring 2100 cartridge. (fitted by inspire hifi)

I have an Arkless Turbo phono stage which goes to a Roksan K3 amp.
This feeds PMC FB1i speakers and a Monitor Audio BXW10 active sub.

I want to do this once, I do not envisage changing the cart again. Therefore I have choosen to go for the Ortofon 2m Black.
I do not wish to investigate MC carts, I would rather have a top line MM cart than fart about with low end MC carts.

Can anyone see an obvious problem with what I propose?
Will the Arkless turbo work with the 2m without any alterations?

Any advice re: setting up the cartridge would be very useful. Think advising a complete novice.

I understand and I can set cartridge/tonearm weight, I can also sort out tracking.
I can just about comprehend azimuth, overhang and vertical tracking angle, but have never set up those parameters.

I do have a huge magnifying glass, lots of light and plenty of time. I have not ordered the new cartridge yet, but I am already excited about the prospect of listening to all my records again whilst making appreciative grunts.

 

[Guest432]

good cart, I had one a few years ago and found it to be much better than the bronze. I'm sure some will harp on about checking capacitance values but on a standard TT with standard cables this can be safely ignored or not worried about.

The black is a bit more fiddly to setup and get right than most other MM's but with a bit of patience it's not that difficult.

 

[Tony L]

I'm sure some will harp on about checking capacitance values but on a standard TT with standard cables this can be safely ignored or not worried about.

Not true I’m afraid. The phono stage is a key factor too, it needs to have very low onboard capacitance as the required total amount for the 2M Black is unusually low (150-300pf, and I’d avoid the top end of that), otherwise the Black starts to sound very forward and bright. Jez will be able to advise regarding his phono stage and I know he can set them up for the required load etc, so it isn’t a deal-breaker, just something to be aware of. I’ve owned a Black and tried it with a lot of phono stages so this isn’t just text-book thinking, it is hard experience. Get it right and it is a very nice cart, get it wrong (too much capacitance) and it really isn’t.

Everything else should work fine!

 

[Big Tabs]

Not true I’m afraid. The phono stage is a key factor too, it needs to have very low onboard capacitance as the required total amount for the 2M Black is unusually low (150-300pf, and I’d avoid the top end of that), otherwise the Black starts to sound very forward and bright. Jez will be able to advise regarding his phono stage and I know he can set them up for the required load etc, so it isn’t a deal-breaker, just something to be aware of. I’ve owned a Black and tried it with a lot of phono stages so this isn’t just text-book thinking, it is hard experience. Get it right and it is a very nice cart, get it wrong (too much capacitance) and it really isn’t.

Everything else should work fine!

Thanks very much Tony. I shall wait a while to see if Mr. Arkless sees this, otherwise I shall message him, it already is beginning to sound like a ballsache.

 

[Tony L]

Thanks very much Tony. I shall wait a while to see if Mr. Arkless sees this, otherwise I shall message him, it already is beginning to sound like a ballsache.

It won’t be as once you have it setup correctly it will be done for good and it is just a matter of buying a new stylus when it eventually wears out. An MM cart you really like is a very simple thing to use long-term! Don’t be put off, the Heybrook is a very capable turntable and it should all sound excellent once dialed-in.

 

[Craig B]

For reference, the Onyx tonearm wiring is specified as having 130pF capacitance. For clarity, it is the sum of the tonearm wiring capacitance and that of the phono stage input capacitance that should be within the range of 150-300pF; typically the lower the better with MMs.

Mechanically, your chosen tonearm is almost ideal. All of Origin Live's own designed arms are to Rega dimensions and feature two parallel sides to the headshell, making it very easy to align a cartridge using the supplied two-point protractor. If you didn't receive the included protractor back from the dealer that fitted the Onyx and Goldring then one can be downloaded and printed to scale. Alternatively, you could simply position the cartridge such that the stylus tip is exactly 17mm past the centre of the platter spindle with the cartridge body square in the headshell.

In case you don't already have a copy, the following link will download a .pdf of the Origin Live manual which offers sensible advice for cartridge mounting and alignment...

https://www.originlive.com/wp-content/uploads/pdfs/Alliance-to-Zephyr-Arms.pdf

 

[alanchamberlain]

I had one once and whatever I did I couldn’t eliminate a fair amount of annoying sibilance. I tried it on three different arms and it was always the same. Thinking I had a duff one I tried another 2M - with the same result. By contrast I’ve had quite a few AT cartridges (AT 440, 150 and 33 PTG) and never had a problem - no sibilance whatever. I’m sure a 2M Black can be set up properly but personally I wouldn’t bother as I’m convinced a decent AT will be a safer bet.

 

[Craig B]

Typically, audio-technica MMs have a specified loading capacitance range of 100-200pF. In practice, they are a bit more accommodating than the specification would suggest.

With respect to sibilance; tip profile, tip mass (bonded vs. nude), (mis)alignment, and electrical parameters can all contribute, so, unless your 2M was a well aligned and properly electrically loaded Black then your experience may not be relevant.

Apologies to the OP for going off topic a bit.

 

[mercalia]

Presumably the 2M Bronze which has the same generator as the Black has the same capacitance problems? seems I was lucky then with my set up of Van den hul cables into a Musical Fidelity XLPs v3. the over all result which is very sweet

 

[PerF]

If the 2M Black is too difficult setting up (for a novice) perhaps the Bronze would be a better bet.

Also new VM range from Audio Technica seem to get good views at reasonable price, no personnal experience though.

If you get a replacement stylus for the Goldring 2100 (perhaps higher up the hiearchy) this will be the easiest and cheapest change as other cartridges might trick a neccesary re-adjustment of the turntable ?

 

[Craig B]

Presumably the 2M Bronze which has the same generator as the Black has the same capacitance problems? seems I was lucky then with my set up of Van den hul cables into a Musical Fidelity XLPs v3. the over all result which is very sweet

I wouldn't go so far as to refer to any of the 2M models as having 'capacitance problems'.

For reference:

AT MM models - 100-200pF
Goldring MI models - 100-200pF
Ortofon MM models - 150-300pF

Perhaps Ortofon have been somewhat optimistic with the top end of their recommended capacitive loading range?

Then again, the blame should rest upon those producing phono stages/phono sections for being out of touch with tonearm cable capacitance and cartridge loading trends. Gone are the days when the typical MM/MI was happy to see 400-500pF.

As your X-LPSv3 has no user adjustable loading (nor did they bother reporting the input capacitance), you were wise to go with Van den Hul cable as these are typically of very low capacitance.

 

[Rockmeister]

No this is a great MM cartridge, and despite the fine tuning...(get hold of Arkless and get him to advise re the phono stage) it's quite easy.
You need an accurate scales, an alignement protractor, a mirror and various small screwdrivers etc to boot.
Not wishing to teach you to suck eggs but as follows.
It'll be much easier if you can remove the arm. If not, AND you are a clumsy, fat fingered so and so I would advise 'asking a friend)!
Otherwise. Unscrew old cart and set aside.
Put arm in arm rest and elastic band it in place.
Make sure the four coloured wires in the headshell are not tangled, and sort their position out with regard to the cartridge pins.
Keep the cartridge stylus guard firmly ON.
This is the only tough bit, assuming the arm is on the deck still. Push the wires onto the matching coloured pins. Do the top two first. Long nose pliars can help if you are delicate.
Once they are on, fit the cartridge to the headshell with the supplied screws/bolts (check this fitting out first before you put the wires on as a dry run, to make sure the bolts are the correct length etc).
Don't tighten the bolts hard yet. Finger tight is all you need.
Now it's alignement protractor time. Make sure the stylus is exactly on the right spot and get the arm aligned.
Once the overhang is perfect, its worth checking the cartridge is exactly vertical. Use the mirror. Lower the cart gently onto the mirror (no LP under) and look straight on from the front. Once the reflection and the real thing are in a perfect line up/down, you can tighten the cartridge screws. Don't go mad, just tight, not gripping on for grim death.
Now set the tracking weight. Start at Ortofons reccomended 1.5g. If it doesn't track cleanly, go to 1.6 later.
Next, lower the cartridge into the groove of an old LP (outer groove) and, looking from the side, make sure the arm is level with the surface of the record.
That's it. Check everything is tight, plug her in and Bingo.

 

[Big Tabs]

For reference, the Onyx tonearm wiring is specified as having 130pF capacitance. For clarity, it is the sum of the tonearm wiring capacitance and that of the phono stage input capacitance that should be within the range of 150-300pF; typically the lower the better with MMs.

Mechanically, your chosen tonearm is almost ideal. All of Origin Live's own designed arms are to Rega dimensions and feature two parallel sides to the headshell, making it very easy to align a cartridge using the supplied two-point protractor. If you didn't receive the included protractor back from the dealer that fitted the Onyx and Goldring then one can be downloaded and printed to scale. Alternatively, you could simply position the cartridge such that the stylus tip is exactly 17mm past the centre of the platter spindle with the cartridge body square in the headshell.

In case you don't already have a copy, the following link will download a .pdf of the Origin Live manual which offers sensible advice for cartridge mounting and alignment...

https://www.originlive.com/wp-content/uploads/pdfs/Alliance-to-Zephyr-Arms.pdf

Thank you, I do have the manual that came with the arm, and the protractor. The problem is knowing how to use it.

 

[Big Tabs]

No this is a great MM cartridge, and despite the fine tuning...(get hold of Arkless and get him to advise re the phono stage) it's quite easy.
You need an accurate scales, an alignement protractor, a mirror and various small screwdrivers etc to boot.
Not wishing to teach you to suck eggs but as follows.
It'll be much easier if you can remove the arm. If not, AND you are a clumsy, fat fingered so and so I would advise 'asking a friend)!
Otherwise. Unscrew old cart and set aside.
Put arm in arm rest and elastic band it in place.
Make sure the four coloured wires in the headshell are not tangled, and sort their position out with regard to the cartridge pins.
Keep the cartridge stylus guard firmly ON.
This is the only tough bit, assuming the arm is on the deck still. Push the wires onto the matching coloured pins. Do the top two first. Long nose pliars can help if you are delicate.
Once they are on, fit the cartridge to the headshell with the supplied screws/bolts (check this fitting out first before you put the wires on as a dry run, to make sure the bolts are the correct length etc).
Don't tighten the bolts hard yet. Finger tight is all you need.
Now it's alignement protractor time. Make sure the stylus is exactly on the right spot and get the arm aligned.
Once the overhang is perfect, its worth checking the cartridge is exactly vertical. Use the mirror. Lower the cart gently onto the mirror (no LP under) and look straight on from the front. Once the reflection and the real thing are in a perfect line up/down, you can tighten the cartridge screws. Don't go mad, just tight, not gripping on for grim death.
Now set the tracking weight. Start at Ortofons reccomended 1.5g. If it doesn't track cleanly, go to 1.6 later.
Next, lower the cartridge into the groove of an old LP (outer groove) and, looking from the side, make sure the arm is level with the surface of the record.
That's it. Check everything is tight, plug her in and Bingo.

I have accurate scales.
I am unable to remove the arm.
I have the protractor that came with the arm.
I know how to suck eggs, BUT I do not know how to do this, as previously stated, advice needs to be more than simple, assume I know sweet F.A.
I have one friend and he is shit at anything like this, he believes that streaming youtube is the pinnacle of the listening experience.
I am not especially clumsy BUT I am a bit blind in one eye and my hands/wrists do not work that well...
Your post has given me some confidence, it can't be that hard...

 

[Big Tabs]

I wouldn't go so far as to refer to any of the 2M models as having 'capacitance problems'.

For reference:

AT MM models - 100-200pF
Goldring MI models - 100-200pF
Ortofon MM models - 150-300pF

Perhaps Ortofon have been somewhat optimistic with the top end of their recommended capacitive loading range?

Then again, the blame should rest upon those producing phono stages/phono sections for being out of touch with tonearm cable capacitance and cartridge loading trends. Gone are the days when the typical MM/MI was happy to see 400-500pF.

As your X-LPSv3 has no user adjustable loading (nor did they bother reporting the input capacitance), you were wise to go with Van den Hul cable as these are typically of very low capacitance.

I have no idea what any of this means

 

[Big Tabs]

If the 2M Black is too difficult setting up (for a novice) perhaps the Bronze would be a better bet.

Also new VM range from Audio Technica seem to get good views at reasonable price, no personnal experience though.

If you get a replacement stylus for the Goldring 2100 (perhaps higher up the hiearchy) this will be the easiest and cheapest change as other cartridges might trick a neccesary re-adjustment of the turntable ?

The price of the 2m Black is not a concern, I want the best I can get, and do it once. I have no interest in swapping things about regularly.

 

[Big Tabs]

The instruction sheet that accompanied the Arkless Turbo states:

"the input load is 47k in parallel with 100pF and should suit the majority of MM cartridges.
Loading plugs can be supplied to order for any MM cartridge with other loading requirements "

I have no idea what this means, but I think it means Mr. Arkless can supply me with something that makes the 2m Black work with the phono stage.

A good thing I hope.

 

[Tony L]

The price of the 2m Black is not a concern, I want the best I can get, and do it once. I have no interest in swapping things about regularly.

If you are not hunting around for an online bargain price and aren’t comfortable installing/setting it up yourself I’d expect a proper hi-fi shop to offer installation on a cart of this price. I do this stuff myself as I enjoy it and being excessively picky I’ve got very good at it, but it is perfectly understandable that many do not like this aspect and that is what good dealers are for.

PS The load you specify for the Arkless stage is correct and the capacitance is within the accepted range. It should be ok. All you need to think about is getting the cart in the arm and setup correctly, either yourself or via a dealer.

 

[Big Tabs]

If you are not hunting around for an online bargain price and aren’t comfortable installing/setting it up yourself I’d expect a proper hi-fi shop to offer installation on a cart of this price. I do this stuff myself as I enjoy it and being excessively picky I’ve got very good at it, but it is perfectly understandable that many do not like this aspect and that is what good dealers are for.

PS The load you specify for the Arkless stage is correct and the capacitance is within the accepted range. It should be ok. All you need to think about is getting the cart in the arm and setup correctly, either yourself or via a dealer.

Thanks for the reply Tony. That is good news then re: my Arkless phono stage, and my grandiose plans. I have messaged Mr. Arkless earlier to get it from the horses mouth, so to speak.
I could ask InspireHiFi or Nottingham HiFi Centre to fit a cartridge, but I guess I will be paying up to £100 for the privilege (?) I do not think they would fit it for free even if I purchase the cart from them. (I will enquire)
I thought that with advice from PFM I should be able to so it myself.
I also have another Heybrook TT2 with an old arm on it that I was going to try and fit the goldring 2100 cartridge to that, a second deck for grotty records. You may recall, I grade and sell records for Headway brain injury charity - a 2nd deck would be useful for that.
I think that deck has a removeable headshell, so I could have a go with it when the # 1 deck is sorted.

 

[Craig B]

I have no idea what any of this means

Sorry, that was a side comment to another poster.

The instruction sheet that accompanied the Arkless Turbo states:

"the input load is 47k in parallel with 100pF and should suit the majority of MM cartridges.
Loading plugs can be supplied to order for any MM cartridge with other loading requirements "

I have no idea what this means, but I think it means Mr. Arkless can supply me with something that makes the 2m Black work with the phono stage.

A good thing I hope.

At '47k in paralled with 100pF', the Arkless Turbo will be fine as is.

As to cartridge alignment, if you manage to get the cartridge positioned in the headshell such that the stylus tip overhangs the centre of the spindle by 17mm AND the cartridge body is square inline with the headshell, then you will have the exact same alignment as faffing about with the supplied single point alignment protractor will allow for (possibly better, as the Rega sourced alignment cards often have their spindle holes punched off centre).

EDIT: Just read your previous reply to Tony. The above cartridge alignment option won't necessarily apply to your other Heybrook with removable headshell tonearm (unless it is an old Acos/Lustre or Rega R200).