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Sony CDP-710 won't eject tray.

Yes that's the wrong belt set. It look like they've sent you a belt set for the KSS-151a laser mech. You belt code 18DD.5 like the one in the ebay link I posted.
 
I'm not sure, it's been years since I worked on a 227esd. There's a good chance it is the right set. It'd certainly be worth checking before you send them back.

It's very difficult trying to get definitive information about the right belt set for a player. Often there can be several different versions of the same player, which require different belts.
 
one of the two blue belts fitted into the 227, which now works fine. not sure why they sell a bag with two, it's probably a set meant to fit a moltitude of cd player models.

I contacted nanocamp about the wrong belt and it took them 3 minutes to answer (I love german efficiency). their database had the CDP-710 listed with a KSS-151A which explained the mistake. they already shipped the correct belt.
 
so I just installed the new belt, but it makes little to no difference. when the tray closes the disc ATTEMPTS TO SPIN but it can't. it feels like the disc is pressed "too much" on the tray, because when it manages to spin a bit it gets all scratched.

there is something mechanical but I can't figure it out. it's like the disc clamp is too strong, if I try to relieve some pressure the disc tries to spin "better".

I have just recorded another video, and a picture of the disc scratches.

https://darkchina811.mywire.org:5001/sharing/dj9EAWBnO
https://darkchina811.mywire.org:5001/sharing/zDLR76ytJ

@Mike P as much as I hate bothering you, I guess I could use more of your insight. thanks!
 
darKchina811 said:
one of the two blue belts fitted into the 227, which now works fine. not sure why they sell a bag with two, it's probably a set meant to fit a moltitude of cd player models.

I contacted nanocamp about the wrong belt and it took them 3 minutes to answer (I love german efficiency). their database had the CDP-710 listed with a KSS-151A which explained the mistake. they already shipped the correct belt.
Click to expand...

Yes the KSS-151a belt kit is designed to suit a large number of models. Some need one belt and others two. It's simpler to sell a kit with covers both options.

I contacted Nanocamp to explain your problem, so they were already expecting your email.
 
I wonder if the disc platter has been pushed down on the motor shaft? The platter should just clear the top of the laser head.

As the tray closes the bit of the tray that the four blue parts that the disc sits on should drop down. If you watch the tray closing without a disc in place can you see this happen?

I will get my 710 out for you and we can compare some measurements.

It's nothing to do with clamping force, this is a common misunderstanding of how most mechs work. The top of the disc is not 'clamped', the chucking arm merely delivers the top magnetic puck and this is attracted to the platter by magnetic force enough to grip the disc and stop is slipping as it accelerates up to speed. Very very few mechs actually clamp the disc from either side.
 
Mike P said:
I wonder if the disc platter has been pushed down on the motor shaft? The platter should just clear the top of the laser head.
Click to expand...

does not seem to be the case. I can spin the disc platter by hand and it feels very "free". it does indeed just clear the top of the laser head.

Mike P said:
As the tray closes the bit of the tray that the four blue parts that the disc sits on should drop down. If you watch the tray closing without a disc in place can you see this happen?
Click to expand...

the four blue parts do indeed drop down. I THINK they did not before replacing the belt, but my symptoms have not changed. weird.

Mike P said:
I will get my 710 out for you and we can compare some measurements.

It's nothing to do with clamping force, this is a common misunderstanding of how most mechs work. The top of the disc is not 'clamped', the chucking arm merely delivers the top magnetic puck and this is attracted to the platter by magnetic force enough to grip the disc and stop is slipping as it accelerates up to speed. Very very few mechs actually clamp the disc from either side.
Click to expand...

thank you so much for your help!
 
Take the whole mech out and turn it over. You'll see that the laser assembly is suspended from four springs. The springs are not all the same strength and need to be in the correct positions. The stronger ones go at the front. Are the four screws and rubber grommets there?
 
now I feel like an idiot. I removed those four screws/springs/grommets when I cleaned the pickup home leaf switch.

I had no idea the springs were different so for sure I mixed them up.

let me check if I can easily figure out the two (stronger) front ones.
 
no F-ing way. it (almost) works. the stronger springs were front left and rear right.

now that I put both in the front, it spins and reads the scratched disc 9 times out of 10. 1 out of 10 times it won't spin and won't light up the DISC presence indicator.

I tried another disc, no scratches, and it appears to be working every time.

(needless to say both discs don't scratch anymore...)

I guess I am close to the solution but I am still shocked with how those springs can make a difference.
 
some more considerations:

I tried 3 different commercial discs in pristine conditions and they are read every single time. they also spin immediately after the disc is loaded.

with the scratched (commercial) disc it seems to be a hit or miss. I would say that 50% it does not even spin, 25% it spins like after a second, and 25% it spins immediately. it will also eventually skip during play.

I tried some CD-R that I burned years ago and again it's a hit or miss.

do I have a focus problem now or does this player only likes commercial discs in excellent shape?
 
Just to note - the rubber bushes the springs fit into have a lip on them - very important to make sure the spring is mounted properly before screwing it down! See my recent Densen thread for photos :) Good luck
 
I can probably borrow a scope. then I'll have to remember how to read it haha, my last interaction with it was in high school.

@Dowser crap do I really have to tear it apart again? :D
 
darKchina811 said:
I now have a scope that I can keep for a few days :)
Click to expand...
Great. I can help you.

Before you do anything else clean the lens. Do both the top of the focusing lens, the underside of the focusing lens and the top of the collimating lens.

You gain access to the underside of the focus lens and top of the collimating by gently prising off the black plastic cover of the lens assembly.

Use several clean q-tips. Do not use IPA/alcohol as it can damage the lens coating. Just fog the lens with your breath and polish dry until you get a 100% clean steak free finish.
 
ok done. top of both lenses is shiny like a mirror, I did my best to reach the bottom of the upper lens.

right now I only have the scratched commercial cd with me and the performance seems to be the same ("hit or miss. I would say that 50% it does not even spin, 25% it spins like after a second, and 25% it spins immediately.")

wait... I hit PLAY from track 1 and it stops after 30 seconds or so and the DISC indicator disappears.
 
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