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Soldering earth rod & 10sq.mm cable

Martin

pfm Member
I have an earth rod in my garden, but it is currently not in use due to some corrosion where the cable clamps to the rod. Quite frankly, connecting it in circuit at the moment actually degrades the sound from the system.

I am planning to try soldering this connection to resolve this.

I assume I need a real mother of a soldering iron, so have purchased this gas soldering torch and this lead free solder.

Are these suitable tools for the job?

Can someone give me an idiot's guide to the job?

Thanks for any help.

cheers, Martin
 
IIRC the 50mm2 earth some use out here uses a cadweld for termination to the eth stake. High-pressure crimp.

Rico

PS - Martin that torch will be fine - plenty of temp to get the heat in there. The trick will be not to totally heat-harden the PVC jacket (how about some old wool blanket soaked in water as a heat-sheild wrap, and some appropriate heatshrink for afterwards )... and of course a reasonable heat exposure to allow the flux to penetrate and work its magic, and the solder to create a good flow for bond. It's easy to create a dry joint with overkill heat, where you heat the outside of the material and get the solder flowing before the whole thermal mass of the work has accepted the heat, and thus remove the heat too early.

Will be intereested to hear your report of how it helps yer system.
 
Rico,

thanks, that's very useful.

If you assume I'm a complete novice at soldering, could you amplify your comment about the heating?

Do I understand that I have to heat the material up well first, and only then introduce the solder?

Chatting with a friend tonight, he also reckoned I need to tin the wires before I make the joint.

As you can see, I'm starting from a position of considerable ignorance!

cheers, Martin

P.S. my plan to do this tomorrow may be washed out by the weather.
 
P.S. to the post above - would it be a good idea to re-install the clamp after it's all soldered up? Should I clamp over the solder joint, or as strain relief by clamping above/below the joint?

cheers, Martin
 
Martin,
Use a wooden clamp to hold the wire to the stake while soldering. Heat until solder melts touching the stake. The mistake most novices make is melting the solder with the torch. You should only let the radiant heat of the wire and stake melt the solder. As Rico stated, you may need a heat sink on the wire to keep it from melting anything upstream. Also, do the job with the wire disconnected from the service panel.

I would definitely use a clamp too as a freak lightning strike could heat and melt your solder joint instantly. Safety first!

Ron The Mon

P.S.
I too would be interested in any sound differences to the hi-fi.
 
Originally posted by Martin
Rico,

....
Chatting with a friend tonight, he also reckoned I need to tin the wires before I make the joint.

As you can see, I'm starting from a position of considerable ignorance!

cheers, Martin

P.S. my plan to do this tomorrow may be washed out by the weather.

i am a complete novice too. i tried my hand at soldering the joints for my hydra recently, and even though the joint looked OK, i wasnt too happy and decided not to use it.

the problem i had was that the joint (the wire joint i mean!!) was about 2cm long and i needed to apply the solder to the whole length -- but stupidly, i kept forgetting to feed the solder wire through -- ended up moving the iron without any solder -- at which point i would remember and feed a little more, etc etc.. consequently, i spent too long soldering one joint. the result looked shiny enough -- presumably indicating a good soldered joint -- but i certainly didnt feel too "confident". will practice some more.

i suspect soldering your earth rod may bring the same sorts of issues.

tinning is quite important to get the heat xferred effeciently to the joint.

i found the following link very useful to learn about soldering.

http://www.antex.co.uk/

i think you can pick up additional links there too.

good luck and enjoy...

ken
 
Solder isn't the best approach if exposed to the elements, the dissimilar metals in the wire and solder alloy create a potential with moisture that increases corrosion.

My earth rod has a bolt threaded in the end, under which a suitably large eyelet can be placed and secured, like the sort used on battery terminals.

If yours is similar, I personally would clean the area up, and try to beg or borrow a suitable crimp tool to fit a terminal to your earth wire.

Crimping, like wire-wrap, when done properly forms a cold weld that is remarkably good and excludes air / moisture.

Once secured the joint should be wrapped in self-amalgamating tape, or the incredibly sticky stuff antenna installers often use (not sure what it is exactly), this then forms a weatherproof seal to protect against degradation from the elements.

I've stripped antennae from PMR sites that have been there for years, and the connectors underneath looked like new when protected in this way.

Andy.
 
Got to agree with Andrew here, soldering might not be the best approach. I would go with the crimping a ring tag end to your cable , then securing this with a nut and bolt to the earth stake. Once everything is all nice and tight use a solvent to degrease everything and then seal it up, (allow time for the metal to equalise temp , you don't want to seal any condensation in). I would use a polysulphide rubber sealant, ( because its brilliant at sealing and a twat to get off ).
This is the method we adopt to secure and make all of the Earthing and bonding joints on our aircraft, some of these joints experience extremes of conditions that they would never be subjected to in your average back garden and they last for years and years.

If i was doing this job i'd do it as follows:

1) Cut a new end on the cable, cut off the insulation just enough to fit into the crimp barrel.
2)Clean and protect the bare wire end. I would use De-Oxit D5 to clean and maybe Stabilant 57 to protect.
3) Clean the inside of the crimp barrel with De-oxit
4) Insert wire and make the crimp, following the instructions for the crimp and the crimping machine.
5) Clean and de-oxidise the end of the earth stake and all metal to metal contact points.
6) Make the connection using Bolt, 2x washers and lock nut.
7) clean and degrease the whole area using a solvent cleaner eg IPA, MEK ( my prefrred solvent ;) ) or toluene.
8) allow 10 minutes for the wet solvent and then any resultant condensation, to evaporate.
9) completely seal up the joint. I would use a Polysulphide Rubber sealant ( as i use it all the time at work) but there are plenty of others ( automobile Underseal might do ).

That is pretty much just the way that i would do it at home and the way i have to do it at work. ( wouldn't bother with de-oxit , etc, at work )
HTH
 
"Listening session live grounding" is preferable to the "rod in earth" approach and a lot cheaper to implement.

I find that "LSLG" brings about a cleaner, effortless, presentation with starts and stops followed by an inky black silence free from boxy colouration with a stygian bass delivery underpinning the proceedings. LSLG ensures the listener will always be connected to his / her music.

LSLG is a cost effective upgrade and is very easy to install into your setup. buy a set (pair) of high quality jump leads from your local car maintenance shop (cheapskates visit your local scrapyard or "motor factor")

Installation couldn't be easier: Lick your forefinger and press down hard on an exposed part of your source (if you receive a massive shock and die I'm sorry........ defective equipment) Next, attach a crocodile clip to your left toe and get an assistant to ground the other end of the Jump lead into some pliant soil in your back / front garden. If the sound is veiled get your assistant to pour some salt solution over you, this should improve the highs...............

I'll stop before I'm sued :)

Pinkie
 
Martin

sorry for solow response - I think the replies above not only cover your questions, but provide better info also.

cheers

Rico
 


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