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Small speakers that sound like big ones

I suspect a distinction needs to be made: high-Q resonance vs low-Q resonance.

A high-Q elastic element in a room (a stringed musical instrument for example) may well resonate very well near its resonant frequency. And from what people report, audibly so.

For low enough Q, the resonance probably does not reach audibility. And I think loudspeakers really should get nowhere near the Q of a musical instrument - even a small driver with a reflex port that tries too hard to extract a quart from a pint pot.
I wonder, though, whether even technically inaudible resonances might have a parasitic effect?
 
I have a simple question.

If I add a sub to a small speaker system (like one with JR149s), I know I risk losing image coherence. But will I gain gravitas, a powerful presence in the mid field -- 10 to 15 feet away?
 
Ls3/5a's for me, have recently discovered the big sound you can achieve with them ((mine are Rogers from 1982)), and still amazed when i power up the system. I'm running them with a Leben 600, and for jazz the combination is just perfect.
 
I have a simple question.

If I add a sub to a small speaker system (like one with JR149s), I know I risk losing image coherence. But will I gain gravitas, a powerful presence in the mid field -- 10 to 15 feet away?

In my view that would be one of the best setups I can think of. Two subs would be better. The great things about subs are that you can put them where they work best, and force out bass nulls leaving the mains placed suitably to create an exceptional image.

Going one step further than Mr Pig, I think you would not only lose nothing but done right you’d gain sparkle, coherence and image because of the context provided by the lows the subs would augment. If I were to start over, I’d have a pair of DIY sealed subs and something like those JRs.
 
I’d echo the comments here about subs. Properly set up you’ll lose nothing at all and will only gain. Poorly integrated cheap subs will sound like a mess but something decent and a couple hours spent doing it right will give great rewards.
 
I have a simple question.

If I add a sub to a small speaker system (like one with JR149s), I know I risk losing image coherence. But will I gain gravitas, a powerful presence in the mid field -- 10 to 15 feet away?

Mostly you'd be able to play louder and the low- and sub-bass would improve in extension as well as clarity.

But ideally you would add two subwoofers and high-pass the main speakers in order to reduce both intermodulation and harmonic distortion coming from the JR149 midwoofers, by preventing them from reproducing the lower end of the spectrum.
 
In my view that would be one of the best setups I can think of. Two subs would be better. The great things about subs are that you can put them where they work best, and force out bass nulls leaving the mains placed suitably to create an exceptional image.

Going one step further than Mr Pig, I think you would not only lose nothing but done right you’d gain sparkle, coherence and image because of the context provided by the lows the subs would augment. If I were to start over, I’d have a pair of DIY sealed subs and something like those JRs.

Mostly you'd be able to play louder and the low- and sub-bass would improve in extension as well as clarity.

But ideally you would add two subwoofers and high-pass the main speakers in order to reduce both intermodulation and harmonic distortion coming from the JR149 midwoofers, by preventing them from reproducing the lower end of the spectrum.

I have been offered a chance to try a JL Audio E-Sub E110, with the possibility of a good deal if I decide to keep it. I'm trying to get motivated to do it . . . .
 
Devialet Phantom, B&W Formation Duo

I'd agree with the Phantom especially on stands. I just couldn't get on with the visuals and the lack of repairability/throw away ethos.
If you don't mind that I really have never heard anything as small sound so big.
 
Meridian M30 Active 2 way monitors from the early 90's.

I wasted these for a year or so as desktop monitors before I stuck them back on their stands and put them in the living room on the end of a Topping E30 DAC a few months ago. Rated down to 38hz and sounds like lower. Will also go plenty loud if fed with a hi gain source (the inputs seem calibrated for very low gain sources and require a bit more voltage than most pre amps can provide). Considering I paid £257 for these in mint condition, for what they are - amps speakers and stands in one package - they are one of the most staggering bargains in S/H audio. Definitely a small speaker for a big room.

I notice someone else here recently got a pair of the slightly large M20's - I'd love to hear them but they come up for sale even less frequently.

Very much at the beefier end of standmounts, but Kef 103.2's (8" woofer, sealed box, mid 80's) sound a lot bigger than their spec suggests or than similar sized and far more expensive modern offerings from Harbeth or Spendor, but you can find yourself spending more on stands than they go for S/H. They are also hideously inefficient.
 
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I have been offered a chance to try a JL Audio E-Sub E110, with the possibility of a good deal if I decide to keep it. I'm trying to get motivated to do it . . . .

What about Jim Rogers' sub, the JR Super Woofer?

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I have been offered a chance to try a JL Audio E-Sub E110, with the possibility of a good deal if I decide to keep it. I'm trying to get motivated to do it . . . .

I really like JL Audio but they’re not the first choice in home audio from a value perspective. However, I don’t think you need to cut the signal to the mains to enjoy a wonderful integration although it is important you don’t overlap frequencies in the same way any crossover would work from one speaker type to another.

JRs get down to what around 50hz? I’d try augmenting the signal with a low pass crossover on the sub at around 60hz, get the volume right and see how you get on. If you can find a real time analyser app on your phone then by playing some pink noise you can visually see what the volume or gain setting should be on the sub.

Before doing all this you’re going to want to get the sub located in a corner of the room, and you’re going to want to notch out whatever prominent room mode you have. Once that’s done you’re 95% of the way there and it’ll sound great.

Does that JL sub have DSP? If not you’ll want it for the room mode that the sub will likely find!
 


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