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SCANSPEAK D2010/851100 BEING DISCONTINUED LAST CHANCE TO ORDER

I see willys sell normal tweeters for sbl and Naim matched ones ,I thought this strange as apparently they were matched at naim headquarters,and the matched ones are considerably more expensive
 
worz said:
I see willys sell normal tweeters for sbl and Naim matched ones ,I thought this strange as apparently they were matched at naim headquarters,and the matched ones are considerably more expensive
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Mine were from Naim HQ via a dealer and cost £152 each. Like anything with Naim and its sale pitch matched everything. Some say the none matched ones work find.
 
Dave***t said:
Anyone know how much of a hassle it would be for a dealer to fit a pair of tweeters to some SBLs?

I just rang my local Naim dealer (Music Matters) and they said they would only be interested in fitting if they also supplied them. So I’ve asked them to get back to me with a price, and am waiting to hear back. But I suspect Naim may gouge on the supply price vs ordering from Falcon.

So I’m wondering whether another dealer in the Birmingham-ish area might be happy to fit them at reasonable cost if I order them from Falcon, or whether all the dealers will feel similarly about only fitting if they also supply.
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Are they glued in? If not, I can solder new tweeters in for you. I’m in Shire Oak, just up the road from Brownhills. My only concern would be marking the finish on the cabinets if they’re glued in (by glue, I’m referring to the sealant mastic as used by the likes of Rega on the ELA).
 
linnfomaniac83 said:
Are they glued in? If not, I can solder new tweeters in for you. I’m in Shire Oak, just up the road from Brownhills. My only concern would be marking the finish on the cabinets if they’re glued in (by glue, I’m referring to the sealant mastic as used by the likes of Rega on the ELA).
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Dave now has the instructions. No they are not glued in they are screwed finger tight and a wee bit common sense wee bit, they have some hylomar blue gasket sealant, its from the aeronautical industry starting in the 50s and resist horizontal drift (really cool stuff). The backs of the tweeters have hot glue over the solder joints which needs to be picked off and replaced. As said before, the Naim spec tweeters have a block of brass attached to the back of them. Im unsure if they can be transferred over to the new replacement tweeters. If it was me i’d buy some replacements from Naim via a dealer. The other thing to think about is the correct solder and im sure if im wrong ill be corrected, back in the day they used Crystal 505 60/40. Unsure if you can find in in the UK these days. I found some in Australia Loctite IDH: 288664 its 0.9mm and has a flux core. From what ive been told by Naim this what was used pre 2006 so ok to mix with old solder. Pls double check as im not technically Inclined at anything.

Pls click link and see for yourself post 7

https://community.naimaudio.com/t/new-sbls/3977

Post 1 SL2 tweeter with hot glue

https://community.naimaudio.com/t/sl2-solder/5033
 
worz said:
Well I've ordered my spare pair so if needed you can help me mate lol
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Yes absolutely… if there’s something I can do well, it’s soldering, lots of experience, from soldering 2 AWG cable into ring terminals, to BGA re-work!
 
Nero said:
Why should tweeters fail? Poor design? They’re only moving coil devices, and if they’re used within their design parameters, where is the problem?
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These days the majority of tweeters use ferro fluid. Depending on the quality of the ferro fluid and how loud you play the music they'll dry the ferro fluid up anywhere between 10 and 25 years. It becomes a hardened mass. It also slowly polishes the outside of the voicecoil rubbing off the insulation of the voicecoil windings.
 
Anything with ferrofluid is a no-no for me. Design the tweeter properly in the first place
 
Nero said:
Anything with ferrofluid is a no-no for me. Design the tweeter properly in the first place
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Ferrofluid has its place and smooths the response somewhat. You can always remove the ferrofluid and run it without it.

If you want a real good tweeter then use an AMT, it outperformes all the domes. Unfortunately the good ones are expensive. The alternative would be something with a waveguide but then efficiency goes up and has to be tamed, especially in small boxes. Cannot win, there are always compromises.
 
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