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SBLs

@fraser.
I love projects like this, so well done for taking this on. I love SBLs, I ran a pair for many years, both active and passive, they only went because I had an Isobarik itch to scratch, currently using active Linn Kans. I tend not to go back to stuff I have used before, but I could easily make an exception for the SBLs.
 
Thanks Wylton, always good to hear good feedback on them

Today in between meetings I did a little more veneering to one of the tweeter units. It's going ok, not exactly a professional finish on the edges but from a distance they'll definitely look presentable enough... You can see the painted sections are going to need touching up before any final finish goes on but not to the extent I once thought. This is after a quick sanding and a rub down with a damp rag.







I am really not sure if i'm going to be able to do the veneering around the edges of these baffles and made them look decent... I may be tempted to paint the whole front baffle instead but it won't look nearly as good :/
 
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The cross overs look tiny, am I being dim it was quite a big black box and you could see the traces which were way bigger?
 
Not sure what you mean Gary - they aren't particularly big but maybe didn't come across in photos very well. Could be my massive hands throwing you off? :D
 
A little progress with the veneering today... Still a long way to go but no major hiccups so far


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same I dont have the confidence or ability to do such a great job sadly, mainly as the black ash finish comes up nicely on mine with a a light scrub and polish, black quickshine for shoes works a treat
 
I have a black ash pair but would love the confidence and tools to be able to veneer them in American walnut.
 
If I can manage it... I'm pretty sure anyone can. Veneering is one of things where the results tend to flatter the workmanship, especially if you use a nice wood. Unless you hack it to pieces it generally turns out nicely. The only tools I've used on these speakers are a scalpel, some sandpaper and a sanding block, and an old piece of timber to apply pressure to the veneer when sticking it down.

Tonight was a stark reminder that no amount of veneer or any other material can flatter my metal working skills. They are truly horrid. I bagged a cheap power amplifier going for spares on ebay to begin

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2x snapped drill bits later and I'd crudely hammered in the holes needed for some binding posts:

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Didn't look quite so bad once the posts are hiding my efforts... I've opted to keep the left/ right designation from the amp notation, but would prefer to keep the high / low frequencies on top of each other on the outputs. Looks a bit messier that way but makes sense to me.

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To mount the crossovers I drilled 4 small holes in each board and attempted to match these up with some I drilled in the bottom of the case. Not quite perfectly aligned but they do the job...
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That's it for one night, a little disheartening but nevermind, at least it won't be visible :D

Tomorrow I'll attempt to wire it all together and forget about that side of things... is there any way of testing what I've done before connecting to the drivers?
 
well being an engineer to trade metal I can work with as much more forgiving, measure twice cut once and get a good automatic centre punch for thin plate. A pillar drill is always preferable if not use block off wood underneath and get someone to watch you a drilling straight and true. Drill from above straight down if you can as easier to apply even pressure. A centre drill is a lifesaver. For thin plat stepped drills can work, but I much prefer a proper drill bit or a dremmel can hide a tale of woes as well
 
I find lots of files helps, the range sells a pack of cheap small files for like 4 quid in a variety of shapes which is handy.
I mashed up a HDX into a full fledged PC with Rasp Pi for a display, that was fun. The back panel I replaced with a piece of right angle aluminium.

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