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Roksan Nima question

S

spet0114

REMPI Member
Hi Folks,

First post here in ages, have been out-of-the-loop for a while.

Long story short, the other day my daughter collided with my LP12/Nima/DV10x5. The words I uttered would not bear repeating.

On inspection, only visible damage was a snapped arm raise/lower lever on the Nima. Made enquiry with Roksan about cost of a replacement raise/lower mechanism, was quoted a price to supply and fit same along with a 'repair and rewire'.

Any thoughts on why they're advocating a rewire? Do modern and older Nimas differ in their wiring and so they want to bring my arm up to modern standards? Has the 'flexible PCB' that they used back in the day now been replaced? Can't find anything online about a change in the Nima spec.

Any thoughts welcomed.

Cheers
Adrian
 
I’ve had mk 1 and 2 Nima’s, 1st had the litz ribbon wire, mk 2 more ordinary wire. Can’t say I heard much difference?
I suspect it’s a Jelco type armlift that used to be available from eBay.
 
divedeepdog said:
I’ve had mk 1 and 2 Nima’s, 1st had the litz ribbon wire, mk 2 more ordinary wire. Can’t say I heard much difference?
I suspect it’s a Jelco type armlift that used to be available from eBay.
Click to expand...

Didn't know there was a Mk2, that explains a lot - thanks! :)
 
Worth speaking to Peter at Cymbiosis about this. He fitted my Mk 1 Nima, and is very knowledgable. He also does plenty of trade ins, so may have a pre-loved lift in that will be sufficient.

Other dealers are available to be asked, of course.
 
I would certainly want the arm checked out as there might be unseen damage, the bearing for instance. Can't see why you'd need it rewired though.
 
I can imagine that the wire may harden or deteriorate over time even if only slightly. If going to the trouble of sending it back to the maker then a rewire would effectively wind the clock back to it being brand new, and I expect it's not a lot of extra work on top of a thorough examination anyway. From the manufacturers point of view they will want to be as sure as possible that it's working perfectly when they return it.
 
The Nima lift-lower device is a pretty standard off the shelf 0.5"Ø unit; the type that have a small pin guiding the platform that keeps it from swinging away from the arc of travel of the tonearm.

These are easily removed; the platform unscrews from the top and there is a set screw along the inward side of the combined arm-rest/lift-lower outrigger platform that holds the 0.5"Ø upper portion of the cylinder in place (and allows for height adjustment).

Generic Japanese lift-lower device (sold as Jelco JL45, VPI Cueing Mechanism, Ortofon 'Armlift for Ortofon Tonearms', and many others):
7vpi-d1029-large__90050.1620326707.jpg
 
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If they have to tear down the arm (to check the bearing for example), the internal wiring may not survive the process. It's common when repairing tonearms unfortunatley.
 
This particular bearing isn't exactly the jewelled uni-pivot of such as the classic inverted Decca design. Basically, Nima has a stout inverted conical set screw which bears down upon a drilled indentation within the top of the combined wiring aperture/top end fitting of the arm post. This isn't anything like as delicate as the typical long slender pivot 'pin' of none inverted uni-pivot designs. If the arm can be balanced, levelled, and made to float freely to and fro then it is fine.

The OP has reported a snapped off lift-lower lever, no doubt right at the threads where it engages the cam, leaving nothing as purchase for removal of same. The cueing device pictured above can be installed in a matter of minutes, with the main cylinder pushed all the way up to the chamfer above the cam.

Screen-Shot-2016-07-06-at-16.09.38.png
 
Not to mention the use of half-C sprats, and brass-fitted nickel slits, and bracketed caps, and splay-flexed brace columns vent dampers to dampening hatch depths of one half meter from the damper crown to the spurve plinths. How? Well its bolstered by twelve husk nuts to each girdle-jerry, while flex tandems press a task apparatus of ten vertically composited patch-hamplers. Then, pin-flam-fastened pan traps at both maiden-apexes of the jim-joist. :)
 
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