TonyScarlett
pfm Member
Should add that Radford STA15 or STA25 also on the bucket list but they are more lottery win/unexpected inheritance fantasies rather than real world possibilities at the moment!
TS
TS
Revisiting Jim Rogers JR149s
Tony L
Administrator
Some detail on the EX1 including pictures of the back panel here. It needs to sit between the preamp and power amp sections, so you need to use a pre/power, or an integrated with a feature to split pre/power (many do).
PS I may be being overly cynical here, but I’d put money on there being a price in mid/top clarity to be paid in using EX1 in-line with the HPF as intended as you are sending the signal through a lot more circuitry. I’d be far more tempted to use a preamp with two power amp outputs (many have this) and run the pre/power as normal and just send out to the EX1, i.e. run the 149s full range. I’d certainly try both approaches if possible.
PS I may be being overly cynical here, but I’d put money on there being a price in mid/top clarity to be paid in using EX1 in-line with the HPF as intended as you are sending the signal through a lot more circuitry. I’d be far more tempted to use a preamp with two power amp outputs (many have this) and run the pre/power as normal and just send out to the EX1, i.e. run the 149s full range. I’d certainly try both approaches if possible.
jimb0
Jelly Roll Soul
Some marble topped ones on quite incredible dalek stands in this current auction: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/22441107...d=link&campid=5338728743&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
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Tony L
Administrator
You could build an appropriate lead for the 33, but it would be rather more awkward than usual due to the cramped DIN plugs. Quite a few preamps do have more than one output for bi-amping, I can’t think of them off the top of my head, but as a random example my JC Verdier valve pre has two sets, and I’ve used them at times too. I’d not let it put you off the 303 if you fancy one, but maybe choose another preamp. Some smaller or hand-made brands, e.g. Croft, may even let you specify it when ordering.
Tony L
Administrator
If the drivers are a Kef T27 tweeter and B110 bass-mid they are Mk Is. The T27 is very easy to ID as it has two wires on the front plate either side of the dome. If yours have them they are Mk Is. Lots of pics upthread.
First post. Bought a set of Mk1's off Ebay, having heard some a few years ago. Sometimes you get more than you expect and for £350 I now have an immaculate pair of rosewood with green inlaid leather JR149s (16k SN). They are mounted for near-field listening on my desk on a set of IsoAcoustics stands (silver to match the aluminium and highly recommended). Still had the original Din plugs. I have replaced the absent foam with sheets from Wilmslow, but quite fancy the original bespoke foam.
Now for the driving. I have set them up with a new Class D Sonos Amp (125W/Channel) to stream lossless Deezer and (lossy) TuneIn and work meetings with my computer. I stream Radio 3 from BBC Sounds via the laptop with USB DAC. So it's HiFi while I work. I also have a Quad 33/303 in for servicing, but thought I'd give the Sonos Amp a try first. The high resistance presents a solid load, but the 125W Sonos really is very good indeed. It also has Line In that can switch automatically when it detects a signal from the computer. Of course controlling the Sonos from the Desktop App makes for a simple experience.
Now for the driving. I have set them up with a new Class D Sonos Amp (125W/Channel) to stream lossless Deezer and (lossy) TuneIn and work meetings with my computer. I stream Radio 3 from BBC Sounds via the laptop with USB DAC. So it's HiFi while I work. I also have a Quad 33/303 in for servicing, but thought I'd give the Sonos Amp a try first. The high resistance presents a solid load, but the 125W Sonos really is very good indeed. It also has Line In that can switch automatically when it detects a signal from the computer. Of course controlling the Sonos from the Desktop App makes for a simple experience.
ToTo Man
the band not the dog
Nope, not interested whatsoever......... only joking, - of course we're interested, this is the JR149 thread after all!
No idea if this has been posted on here already, sorry if this is the case. I found this link which might be useful.
http://ukhhsoc.torrens.org/makers/JimRogers/JR149_Brochure.pdf
http://ukhhsoc.torrens.org/makers/JimRogers/JR149_Brochure.pdf
ToTo Man
the band not the dog
Time for some more JR149 foam grille p@rn!
These (right) arrived from Graham Hartle yesterday, JR149 foams made to the original 1977 'Red Logo' specification. I had no involvement in the design of these, Graham contacted me last week to see if I wanted a pair and I thought, "yeah, why not, you only live once!"
You can debate whether or not they're 'period correct' for the 'Gold Logo' model, but they sure do look nice, as does the original wide bar design (left). I can't decide which I like best!....
So, just a heads up to let you all know that these 'Red Logo' grilles are available from Graham in very limited supply. I think he has only one or two pairs available but he may make more if there's enough demand for them. If you want a pair then I can PM you his contact details or you can contact him through eBay.
These (right) arrived from Graham Hartle yesterday, JR149 foams made to the original 1977 'Red Logo' specification. I had no involvement in the design of these, Graham contacted me last week to see if I wanted a pair and I thought, "yeah, why not, you only live once!"
You can debate whether or not they're 'period correct' for the 'Gold Logo' model, but they sure do look nice, as does the original wide bar design (left). I can't decide which I like best!....
So, just a heads up to let you all know that these 'Red Logo' grilles are available from Graham in very limited supply. I think he has only one or two pairs available but he may make more if there's enough demand for them. If you want a pair then I can PM you his contact details or you can contact him through eBay.
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Hi all,
I've just picked up a fairly battered pair of red logo JR149s. They're arriving later this week. I'm thinking it could be a fun lockdown project to tinker away at. My knowledge is next to none in a technical sense. Any one interested in helping out (paid, of course) tutoring me over Zoom? I was going to post a new topic Tony, but not really sure a where Zoom speak repair tutoring thread would live?!
Thanks!
I've just picked up a fairly battered pair of red logo JR149s. They're arriving later this week. I'm thinking it could be a fun lockdown project to tinker away at. My knowledge is next to none in a technical sense. Any one interested in helping out (paid, of course
) tutoring me over Zoom? I was going to post a new topic Tony, but not really sure a where Zoom speak repair tutoring thread would live?!Thanks!
OK, so I have just joined PFM because I found this thread; I own a pair of original JR149's with gold logo's and the early crossover board with the individual push on speaker connections as well as a battered pair of JR150's which I am still working on and one of the JR sub-bass amplifiers and a similarly housed active crossover unit that goes with it.
I also have an original NOS unloaded pair of the JR149/2 crossover boards that I want to try with new components fitted to avoid reducing the original's value, but this later version, like the JR150 boards, uses a push-on white connector shell with female click-in crimp connections inside; I actually have some NOS examples of these too but not the inserts or the pins, which is stopping progress right now.
These shells have no make or logo on them but does anyone know who made them originally; they are not Molex, Metway or JST and I am stumped!
A matter of note; all of the crossover boards I have and a pair of *KEF ones I have all use the black bodied Elcap bipolar electrolytic capacitors and all have been tested and are within 10% of their stated value, so I am inclined to leave them all alone and do the other thing.
*these came from scratch build copies of the old Mission Audio MA3 design, which similarly used a massive EMI 13" x 11" cast frame elliptical bass driver(!), only with original B110's and T27's as the mid and tweets instead of original MA3 mid/tweets. (I sold the ellipticals on ebay before anyone asks!)
I also have an original NOS unloaded pair of the JR149/2 crossover boards that I want to try with new components fitted to avoid reducing the original's value, but this later version, like the JR150 boards, uses a push-on white connector shell with female click-in crimp connections inside; I actually have some NOS examples of these too but not the inserts or the pins, which is stopping progress right now.
These shells have no make or logo on them but does anyone know who made them originally; they are not Molex, Metway or JST and I am stumped!
A matter of note; all of the crossover boards I have and a pair of *KEF ones I have all use the black bodied Elcap bipolar electrolytic capacitors and all have been tested and are within 10% of their stated value, so I am inclined to leave them all alone and do the other thing.
*these came from scratch build copies of the old Mission Audio MA3 design, which similarly used a massive EMI 13" x 11" cast frame elliptical bass driver(!), only with original B110's and T27's as the mid and tweets instead of original MA3 mid/tweets. (I sold the ellipticals on ebay before anyone asks!)