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Revisiting Jim Rogers JR149s

Well with all these conversations going on - I went back in with the soldering iron and replaced all the capacitors with a set of replacements from Falcon. They have been in an envelope for a couple of years , pending the motivation to take apart a pair of speakers that sounded great to me.
Let's play a few vinyl albums ( in honour of RSD ) and see what and if there is a difference :)

PS I went out to a couple of shops and did not buy a single record today.....I might take a more longer look tomorrow when the fuss has died down.
 
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Got my 50A fuses! These have to be pretty much the same as bypassing entirely as the “fuse” bit looks more solid than a PCB track or component lead! I’ve just stuck them in anyway...
 
Tony L said:
Got my 50A fuses! These have to be pretty much the same as bypassing entirely as the “fuse” bit looks more solid than a PCB track or component lead! I’ve just stuck them in anyway...
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Nice one! Ordered mine on Tuesday so will hopefully have them for some weekend playtime. What do they sound like, 50A fuses? ;)
 
I don't know why JR put the fuse in the input, rather than the tweeter output. Where it is will not protect the tweeter as it has to be rated to handle the bass power.
 
I’ve no desire to take them out, the system really is sounding good!

PS It wouldn’t surprise me if people were blowing B110s rather than T27s, I’d have thought that would die first at a party or whatever. The T27 can cope with far louder 3-way systems such as Kef Concertos etc.
 
Tony L said:
The T27 can cope with far louder 3-way systems such as Kef Concertos etc.
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Usually 3 ways cross the tweeter higher. The Concerto was 3.5 kHz. Higher is an easier life.
I suppose that the high BSC levels of the JR149 might have led to excess B110 coil excursion on warped records and deep bass
 
I guess they will do but I would certainly solder a link across fuse holder personally. There are still contacts, which can slacken off or become tarnished. Performance is everything and appearance of zero concern for me!
 
Arkless Electronics said:
I guess they will do but I would certainly solder a link across fuse holder personally. There are still contacts, which can slacken off or become tarnished. Performance is everything and appearance of zero concern for me!
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I'm going to dab my ends with some Caig DeOxit Gold to stave off the tarnishing process... I might try it on the fuses too! :D
 
Why order 50A fuse just solder a piece of wire across a 1A fuse end caps if you want to leave it reversible

alan
 
337alant said:
Why order 50A fuse just solder a piece of wire across a 1A fuse end caps if you want to leave it reversible

alan
Click to expand...

With cerebral palsy, 50A fuses are a much easier solution for me. Saves having to ask my dad to dig out the soldering iron!
 
337alant said:
Why order 50A fuse just solder a piece of wire across a 1A fuse end caps if you want to leave it reversible
Click to expand...

I considered that, though assumed the heat would crack the glass.

PS FWIW I’m now back to my initial position of thinking bypassing/uprating the fuse makes a worthwhile difference. It just sounds a bit ‘more’, and as everyone knows more is better.
 
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Just to prove it is doable here’s a bit of mains ‘twin & earth’ soldered to a pair of the 50 Amp fuses - I wonder how many Amps it is now?!

PS Not listened to them yet...
 
Hello, I have just purchased a pair of JR149 red logo speakers
Although they are working fine I would like to go ahead and recap the crossover.

Mine is a lot more simpler to the ones pictured and has among others 2x 3uf none polarised caps.
I cannot find them anywhere only 3.3 uf, can I use those ?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/169760958@N03/33777709118/in/dateposted-public/
The link above is a picture of my crossover

I am located in Perth Western Australia so my choices are limited so am looking on line

Also I am in need of foam covers

Thanks everyone and it’s good to see all this info on the speakers

Cheers

Brian
 
That is a different to the one reverse engineered above.
Generally 3uF and 3.3uF should be a straight swap.
If you can, make a measurement with REW or Holmimpulse to see what you are starting with.
 
Woadl said:
Hello, I have just purchased a pair of JR149 red logo speakers
Although they are working fine I would like to go ahead and recap the crossover.

Mine is a lot more simpler to the ones pictured and has among others 2x 3uf none polarised caps.
I cannot find them anywhere only 3.3 uf, can I use those ?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/169760958@N03/33777709118/in/dateposted-public/
Click to expand...
They look like the crossovers in the eBay speakers linked to here, which have at least one 3.3uf Elcap fitted, presumably also from new.
 
As the link/capacitor is part of the tweeter crossover, it is part of the tweeter power handling story, so it is worth replacing the link with the capacitor.
 
davidsrsb said:
As the link/capacitor is part of the tweeter crossover, it is part of the tweeter power handling story, so it is worth replacing the link with the capacitor.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply’s, David are you saying to take out the wire link and insert a capacitor in there ?

I’ll message Falcon and see what caps are in the kit that they sell for the 149’s

At the moment they sound fine but I just want to restore them.

Is the foam that Wilmslow Audio sell ok for these speakers ?
 
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