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Pimping the Macmini M1/2 (non ‘pro’ models)

Heckyman

pfm Member
I’ve mentioned this on other threads, but it’s such a nice, under appreciated mod I think it deserves its own.

The new Macminis (not the older Intel machines) are ideal for this treatment as:
1) the stock machine already sounds (surprisingly?) decent, in my system the stock M1 replaced an Allo USBridge Signature / Digione sig. plus a bunch of PSUs, including a Sean Jacobs DC3+,
2) the stock switching power supply is easy to remove without soldering,
3) the machine is powerful (generally this means good sound) yet power efficient — most audiophile 12V PSUs can provide sufficient current,
4) there’s a cheap, ready made DC conversion kit,
5) it’s also possible to run fanless and headless (should further improve SQ)

Basically all you have to do is follow one of the many Macmini teardown videos (iFixit etc) until you have removed the power supply. You can also remove the fan if you don’t run the machine hard, as I’ve done. Fit the conversion kit, screw it all back together, plug in your superior 12V PSU and enjoy the music.

Obviously, this mod depends on the quality of the replacement power supply. I chose a Farad Super 3 12V as it’s an LPS but also supercap based. Inferior LPS’s on digital gear can sound a bit flat and mushy sometimes, SMPS's tend to be nicely dynamic but can be a bit “digital/thin/harsh” sounding, like the stock PSU really.

It takes about 5 or 10 minutes and is easily reversible. Besides having suitable tools, the main thing you have to take care about is not to damage any connections by yanking them out aggressively.

The conversion kit I initially used was an old product from the days when modding Macminis was quite popular:

https://kamaudio.com/TeraDak-Mac-mini-power-module

After checking with Mattijs at Farad, I wanted to try using just a cable as the whole TeraDak filtering module seemed unnecessary. The Macmini's voltage regulators are on the mainboard, the power connector just has to supply a single 12V DC. So I got in touch with Kam Audio and I was delighted when they offered to make me just what I was asking for:
https://kamaudio.com/Mac-Mini-modified

This is the one I’d recommend if your chosen PSU already has good filtering, it probably sounds better and it’s certainly cheaper ;-)

To give some context to the improvement, besides a change of speakers, this is the only change my son (a decent amateur musician) has ever noticed. I’ve changed DACs (even between the Macmini’s internal DAC and my Holo May) and amps and in those cases, he’s never really been able to say there if was any difference at all (based on his auditory memory of how the system had previously sounded, i.e. not A/B-ing between the 2 components).

I’m not generally a fan of mods, but this one makes a lot of sense. You can “invest” in good power for the long haul, and just upgrade the computer part from time to time as chips get ever more powerful and efficient.
 
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I use a Mac mini as my primary streamer, mainly because I wanted a streamer that worked with Apple Music. It sounds good as is, but I’m definitely intrigued by this upgrade. It does seem like a very simple procedure to make the change — and for just £25 for the conversion ‘kit’ (a cable) it seems like a no-brainer.
I can’t see me laying down over £600 for a power supply though, so I’m wondering if cheaper LPS PSUs would offer appreciable improvements?
 
Hard to say, unfortunately I don't have any other 12V LPSUs to try. Most of my earlier LPSU experiences were with 5V PSUs on the Allo / Qutest, the Farad 12V I already had after audiophile switch experiments (please don't ask!).

I do believe it's not an easy task to make a good LPSU for a streamer and especially at a low cost, probably harder than a DAC PSU. In fact some of the top servers even use SMPS's. And there's also the possibility that the stock Mac SMPS isn't actually that bad and the improvement I hear is more because the Farad is really good. A lesser LPS would likely still sound different, but not necessarily better.
 
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SBooster might be a cheaper option worth looking into, but couldn't recommend. There are quite a few UK dealers, you might be able to try before you buy.

There's also the TeraDak LPSU that the original conversion kit (linked in the OP) was designed for, haven't heard this either though! For older Intel minis this is likely the only affordable PSU that has sufficient current.
 
Could I please ask nicely, if you’re using an external DAC, why would you want to run the Mac from a linear supply? Plus, the fan speed can be controlled by an app, such as Macs Fan Control. Or have I misunderstood something?
 
Good luck, look for a decent amount of current, 12V/3A should be fine. Depends how hard the machine is working and if you attached any bus powered peripherals.

The stock PSU I think is overspecced for the new M minis, as it seems to be the exact same part as used in the more power hungry Intel minis.
 
Could I please ask nicely, if you’re using an external DAC, why would you want to run the Mac from a linear supply? Plus, the fan speed can be controlled by an app, such as Macs Fan Control.
Sure, but you won't believe me when I say it's because it sounds better?

Still, I have run the modded M2 via the internal DAC in the HP jack and it sounds very good too if you can find a decent mini jack/RCA cable. I would personally take a £600 Farad and just use the internal DAC, than use the stock PSU with a £600 DAC. But only on the M2 (and maybe M1), not Intel Macminis.

You can't stop the fan with a fan control app, only turn it to minimum (which it never gets above anyway). That's actually what I tried first. FWIW, I didn't notice a difference with the fan running at minimum vs removed, it's not the kind of thing I'd try to A/B test, but logically no fan can't sound worse than with fan!
 
... slightly off topic but I've found the MacOS system volume control also very good, and easily matches (and maybe beats) my best passive attenuators (Townshend Allegri+, Goldpoint SA1). So if you're already happy using a Macmini as a source, you maybe don't need a pre-amp either. Line out of the M2 HP jack (or my DAC) drives my power amp no problem. Not the most convenient arrangement, but sound per pound is unbeatable.

For context, current system is MM M2/Farad -> Holo May DAC -> EWA M-40 power amp -> Kef Ref 3 speakers
 
I wonder how all this compares to the M1Pro battery powered MacBook; don't think I've ever had the fans come on. I think the USB is pretty clean and/or my dacs can take it since with the Audial there might be a tiny improvement using a detox/decrappifier and with all other dacs, nothing.

I've never tried using the system volume control (Audirvana doesn't let you anyway) but was using the dac's volume. For early and late listening I was down to -40dB so I bought the Topping Pre90 (thanks Simon) to eliminate noise; doubt I'd hear the difference though tbh.
 
@Alex S I wouldn't like to say as I've not tested. I've encountered enough audiophile truths/theories, "no-brainers" etc that didn't quite stack up, that I only believe what I hear (and preferably only after a fair period of back and forths).

I don't think USB cleaners are necessarily indicative. Those things never improved the stock Mini M1 with the Holo May, I sold my Denafrips Hermes DDC, and still languishing in my drawers are a couple of USB dongles, good USB cables...

The Audirvana app on my phone has a slider that's actually the system volume if I've turned off the Audirvana app volume control in settings. In theory (ha!) the AV VC should be superior. However if you're down at -30-40 (which I often am too), it probably doesn't matter if you lose a few bits because whatever you lose will be too quiet to hear anyway.

Not sure if I'll end up sticking with no pre, but I won't be just taking a punt on one out of curiosity.
 
I and others have experienced drop-outs when performing heavy processing with HQPlayer (likely to be network related) with the 8GB M1/M2s so I recommend that people buy the 16GB version of these machines.

I have not tried connecting my M1 directly to the DAC, I use a microRendu endpoint/bridge for that purpose, making the replacing of the Mac’s PSU redundant.
 
Could I please ask nicely, if you’re using an external DAC, why would you want to run the Mac from a linear supply? Plus, the fan speed can be controlled by an app, such as Macs Fan Control. Or have I misunderstood something?

Computer processing generates electrical noise, USB ports and power supplies are noisy and the grounding has not been optimised for audio. That noise may be carried along with the digital audio stream and the that input interface may not be able to filter it or not entirely.
This noise will affect the performance of the clock and the D/A chip (there are Analog technical notes on this but I am currently away and can’t link them) and as the OP said reducing that noise may improve sound (although as always there can be expectation bias at play).
If you connect a PC directly to a DAC it might be worth considering the Intona or Topping USB filters, although there seem to be a few DACs which are all but imune to noise.
 
I and others have experienced drop-outs when performing heavy processing with HQPlayer (likely to be network related) with the 8GB M1/M2s so I recommend that people buy the 16GB version of these machines.

I have not tried connecting my M1 directly to the DAC, I use a microRendu endpoint/bridge for that purpose.
My 8GB M2 seems fine when used as a HQ Player (NAA) endpoint, doing the heavy lifting (e.g. PCM to DSD) in HQP on a work machine upstairs. But in truth I don't bother with that too often.

PCM-PCM upsampling direct on the M2 with Audirvana/SoX and/or MacOS core audio also work fine, the M2 doesn't break a sweat, and this is my "default" setting.
 
My 8GB M2 seems fine when used as a HQ Player (NAA) endpoint, doing the heavy lifting (e.g. PCM to DSD) in HQP on a work machine upstairs. But in truth I don't bother with that too often.

PCM-PCM upsampling direct on the M2 with Audirvana/SoX and/or MacOS core audio also work fine, the M2 doesn't break a sweat, and this is my "default" setting.

An endpoint is only a buffer, maybe that’s why. Jussi Laako (HQPlayer’s developer) is also recommending that people get the 16GB machine for running the Desktop.
 
...FWIW, I wouldn't expect a PSU upgrade to make any difference in cases where a computer is only sending a network stream to another computer aka "endpoint" like in Tuga's case. It's the endpoint and its PSU that's critical, IME.

But I'm sure there will be people saying they have done just this and do hear a difference!
 
...FWIW, I wouldn't expect a PSU upgrade to make any difference in cases where a computer is only sending a network stream to another computer aka "endpoint" like in Tuga's case. It's the endpoint and its PSU that's critical, IME.
!

Most definitely. The clue is in the name: endpoint is where one’s streaming system connects to the DAC.
And that’s why dealing with noise sources is crucial.
 


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