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Philips CD160 not working

a.palfreyman

pfm Member
Guys,
I have a CD160 that I used for the first time in many years (was stored in the loft, boxed up. Also, the display doesn't work so can't read any messages etc.) It seemed to work ok and played a few discs part-way through, but last week, I ran it through a full disc and it began to "skip back" i.e. replay the same few seconds of music. I opened it up and noted some very slight deposit on the laser lens so took the transport out and cleaned this off using IPA and tissue. On putting it back together it will not now play a disc. When you load it it will either spin up and stop, or spin up and then stop and then spin the opposite direction before stopping. Anyone know what this could be caused by? I also noted whilst I had the transport out that the tracking arm is "free" to swing. Is this typical of this mechanism? I would like to sort it as I just bought a NOS re-clocker (this one: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=201927999150) to try.
TIA,
AP
 
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Check all supplies first - preferably with a scope to identify any noisy rails. That might also be why the display is not working (although these were unreliable, normally it is segments that fail rather than whole thing).

Then I'd also be checking the servo board - can't remember what mech is in these, and replace alectrolytics there too.

I'd seriously doubt it is the laser, but guess it could be if all else fails.
 
OK Richard,
Thanks for the heads-up and will try to spend some time on this over the weekend. Been following your Cambridge CD player thread with interest and noted your comments about this (same) display unit. Before mine stopped working altogether I did note that sometimes it would work correctly and sometimes with an odd segment dropped-out but this would sometimes "come back again" so I think the display might be OK. Will try to do some reading round about this.
Thanks,
Andy P
 
I used to have an old Philips CD player and it started showing up with some intermittent faults. Someone somewhere, it might have even been the Philips service department, suggested that I look for dry joints on the main circuit board - I went over all possible joints with a soldering iron and it all worked perfectly after that.
 
OK, had the transport and main boards out, re-soldered all the sockets which appeared to have been hand-soldered originally, plus around the regs- the three at the back of the mother board (heatsink) and put it all back together but no change. Measured some voltages on the TDA chip (voltmeter) and these appeared to be OK according to the data sheet but you can't access the underside of the boards with it all wired up so not sure where to go next. I would need a schematic but not sure I have the time, patience or sufficient knowledge TBH. I wonder whether to offer this as a "spares / repair" on here (free but on condition of a small donation to the site). Thoughts please?
AP
 
A lot of Philips players from this era have some blue coloured axial electrolytic caps in the servo section which are known to be a real liability. From memory they are 33uF I think.

If your CD160 has such caps it might be worth changing them.
 
Thanks, I will have a look at the w/end and make a list and replace and see how we go from there.
Thanks everyone.
AP
 
Replaced the caps on the servo board (all except the pair of 220uf). I had no axial caps but plenty of radial ones so just re-bent the legs. The low value (2.2?) I replaced with a 4.7 and all the 47s and the 33 axial were replaced with 47s. I now found that it still wouldn't read the disc, but the display worked so took the mech back out and found I had not engaged the ribbon from the laser to the servo board correctly. Re-engaged this (and locked it properly with the sliding sleeve, DOH) and now it would read and play the disc but the display wasn't working again. I then replaced the axials on the mother board and display board but this had no effect on the display. I have actually "redone" most of the plugs by prising them open, pushing the wire in a further 3-4mm and then "re-closing" the plugs so not sure what to try next with these. Any thoughts please?
Ta,
AP
 
Hmm - seems strange. To confirm, it now reads and plays discs, but display is dead? Do you have the circuit diagram? The +1 5v line is shared by both servo and display - did you replace the caps around the 7805 regulator (6309 cct reference)? The big one before the reg is 6.8k uF, plus a 47uF after the reg.

I wonder if the rail has noise that is having an impact under full load and when you disconnected servo it was enough to allow display to function.

Otherwise there are a couple of local decoupling caps on the 5v rail where it connects to the display (pins 4 and 7).

I guess you do not have a scope? If that doesn't fix it, I'd trace everywhere the +1 5v rail goes (it is the only 5v regulator in player :)), and check all the local decoupling caps.

But maybe to check first, confirm display works reliably if you disconnect the ribbon connector again?

Good luck, Richard
 
Richard,
Yes it now reads / plays a disc but the display, despite working for a few moments, now doesn't work again. As for your suggestion, that was my thought so I removed the drive again last nite and disconnected the ribbon but the display didn't work with the ribbon out, nor with the drive completely disconnected. I took the mother board out and checked the continuity across the three grey board connectors from the backs of the boards (one with about 12-15 wires and the other with five wires to the servo as well as the five to the display) and these showed good continuity, as did the small ribbons across the front and rear display boards. I also checked the voltages on the five pin connector to the servo and got +12V, +5V, 0V, -6V and -13V which I assume is OK as I don't have the service manual. I will fire the 'scope up at the weekend and look at the supplies to see if there is any gross ripple.
Ta,
AP
 
This w/end I have mostly been listening to music!
Long story short: I have been playing with some 3-way speakers and wanted to try more than 1 digital source so although I have done the decoupling mod on the TDA1541 (non-A version) I can't tell you what difference this has made due to later changes to the speaker cross-over.
Anyway, back on topic: I 'scoped the following power supplies (+5V, -5V and -15V) at the DAC, as well as the +5V on the display board and all were "quiet" i.e. with minimal ripple. There are two wires on the five-pin connector from mother board to display board that carry digital signals which appear to be a burst of data about 7ms long at about 25-30ms intervals. IIRC one is mostly at 0V with +5V bursts and the other is mostly at +5V with 0V bursts. As I don't have a service manual or more sophisticated test gear I don't know if this is correct or otherwise, but it appears that "data" is being transmitted to the display board but no idea what to try next.
AP
 
Time to replace the display module maybe? It could have a dry joint under that black blob.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/707-5...0001&campid=5338728743&icep_item=192230772770

I have a non-original one which definitely works, but is also 4 or 5 mm more proud than the original. On a CD3 that meant front panel would not fit. How much space is there in the CD160 between display and front panel window? You could have the one I have for £18 plus postage.
 
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Hi Richard,
Have joined HiFiEngine and down-loaded the manual (German unfortunately) but will have a "poke" around next week whilst off work. If I think it is repairable using the display you have offered I'll let you know. I will also check if there is sufficient (5mm extra) clearance.
Ta,
Andy P
 
Richard,
I found out something about the display whilst off last week. Having de-soldered the unit from the circuit board I noted a small gap (0.5mm-ish) between the LED segment block and the green circuit board and that this gap could be squeezed shut. I did this and re-melted the little "pips" that protrude through the back of the circuit board with a soldering iron and re-fitted. It worked:) but only for about 10 mins prior to flickering / stopping working:mad:
I thing that the display you have should fit as there is clearance between the current display and the window. Would you post it all-in at £18 to Midlands region? Would pay by paypal friends and family.
Ta,
AP
 
£18 is what it owes me - let me check size of it and whether I can ship as a letter or a parcel. If letter it's only £2 economy.

I have a look this evening.

Cheers, Richard
 
Oops, sorry, completely forgot!

Just checked, it can go as a letter, so £2 economy (5-9 days, no tracking or liability), or £2.30 priority with tracking and 2-3 days.

I'll include priority postage for £20, payment via Paypal gift - OK for you? Let me know and I'll PM you relevant email.

Richard
 
PM replied.
I might have to pick your brains again...
Seems now that when I use the CD160 it tends to skip / jump for about 15 mins after switch-on and then settles down (will play the same tracks without jumping / skipping). Could it be the laser output needs adjusting?
Thanks for all your help so far.
AP
 


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