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Painting a newly laid garage floor

This all depends on how long you want the floor to last and just how tough you need it to be.
Placing a layer of PVA on now will stop dusting, but will also leave a skin that may well stop future paint adhering correctly.
At work we have used epoxy of many different types over the years, over recent times water based epoxy was used, but it did not last that long and marked very easily.
What we have now done is ripped off (scrabbled) the top 5-10mm laid a new self levelling industrial floor screed, then an epoxy paint to that - but not just any epoxy.
Britania Floor Paints is what we have used. https://www.britanniapaints.co.uk/products/floors/epoxy-floor-coating/
Not cheap, but it seems this stuff is what we should have used from the outset.
Onece totally dry, a primer epoxy - then two coats of 2 pack.
This may be way more than you need as 5L goes a long way, but it worked for us.
Another thing to consider is Regupol rubber matting - from 5mm to 10mm.
Amazing stuff - get the correct one and it totally stands up to the likes of forklifts - a garage would be childs play to it.
It's also very nice under foot in a garage - been in ours for a few years now, but it never has a car in it..
 
Threshold guards can work well but a couple on things to note.

Ideally the bottom edge of the door should hang below the level of the garage floor. Generally that’s the way it is on new builds with the garage floor around a few inches above the outside level.

In cases where they are similar levels (or flat) then a threshold guard may work well but be aware of how much gap you have below the door, you don’t want the door jamming on the threshold.

Another option is a semi circular rubber seal that screws into the bottom of the door panel itself, again it’s gap / door dependant.

An alternative is to build a barrier in cement within a cm or so inside the door with a vertical edge of the required height at the door side sloping into the garage. I’ve done this a number of times and has been very successful.

One point to note, only the sectional type doors where the door panel(s) slide vertically onto a level surface ever claim to be weatherproof with rubber on the bottom and rubbers seals on the vertical sides.

Any other style by design will not offer a seal from the elements!
 
Great points W&F.

Both of my garages have Hormann sectional doors with vertical seals on the top and sides + bottom round seals.

Dave.
 
Hormann are one of the best made of them all especially the sectionals. Just checkout the online catalogue they offer a huge range of options. Quality bit of kit!
The above seal is good from the point of having a very thin section under the door but the 15mm height is unlikely to stop wind blowing water in but If the door is somewhat sheltered you may be ok.
You have to obviously seal the concrete first so some coats of pva and left to dry properly may help your grab adhesive keep it in place.
 
hifinutt said:
any links steve to such a product ?
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I just made one from wood strips, in my case from a wardrobe. I screwed them to the floor with rawlplugs and sealed the edges. Any wood will do, say 6mm x 10 or 12 if you have to buy it. All you need is a step to stop water and resist car traffic.
 
PVA is probably your cheapest and easiest option if all you want is to stop the dust. It's only a domestic garage, unless you want to set up a side business servicing fork lifts.
 
stevec67 said:
I just made one from wood strips, in my case from a wardrobe. I screwed them to the floor with rawlplugs and sealed the edges. Any wood will do, say 6mm x 10 or 12 if you have to buy it. All you need is a step to stop water and resist car traffic.
Click to expand...

Cheapskate!
 
I would consult with an industrial concrete products supplier. I treated all the concrete in my newly built home in 1991 with a product called Permacure, no longer made. It was designed for new concrete, was water based and safe to use inside. I applied it using a paint roller on the walls and floor of my basement as well as the garage floor, driveway, doorstop and sidewalks. It soaks into the pours of the concrete.

I have purchased products from this company to reapply to my garage floor and driveway. Looking at their products I found this product which looks similar to Permacure.

https://www.specco.com/curing-and-s...water-based-cure-and-seal/envirocure-309.html
 
John said:
I would consult with an industrial concrete products supplier. I treated all the concrete in my newly built home in 1991 with a product called Permacure, no longer made. It was designed for new concrete, was water based and safe to use inside. I applied it using a paint roller on the walls and floor of my basement as well as the garage floor, driveway, doorstop and sidewalks. It soaks into the pours of the concrete.

I have purchased products from this company to reapply to my garage floor and driveway. Looking at their products I found this product which looks similar to Permacure.

https://www.specco.com/curing-and-s...water-based-cure-and-seal/envirocure-309.html
Click to expand...
That's a pva product. Maybe with other stuff but still pva.
 
steve watkins said:
Cheapskate!
Click to expand...
Yeah, I know. Making my own solution. It's not the pfm way, I know. I should have had it cut to size in 316 stainless, had it gold plated and then paid a contractor to cut a precision groove with a diamond disc before cementing it in with specialist load bearing epoxy costing £50 a litre. Instead I used a bit of wood and some sealant. Letting the side down.
 
stevec67 said:
PVA is probably your cheapest and easiest option if all you want is to stop the dust. It's only a domestic garage, unless you want to set up a side business servicing fork lifts.
Click to expand...
We did our warehouse in a flat grey. Looked excellent. Then I started getting pissed off with the scuffs and chips and the wear in busy areas.

PVA every time for a garage. After applying, the floor looks just as shit as before it went on.
 
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