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One for the Isobarik Experts

some serious damping there, John.

got similar stands under our current pair ( the stands on the first pair had the earlier stand with the two vertical strut towards the middle of the front)

is the black front panel original or did the dealer put it in himself?

Hi,

The stands came with the front and both sides with black panels already in place, it looked like a Linn fit, I don't think the dealer fitted the panels, they looked almost like a custom Linn part, plus the wooden panels looked like some of the the same wood I had seen on some other Linn equipment, they did not look like ply, more a very solid panel, very heavy.

One panel was the size of the hole in the stand the other bigger and inside the stand, I think both panels were glued together, I think the inner panel was then screwed to the stand or there was some form of mounting inside the stand to screw each panel to.

If I remember there were two sheets of this board,the outside one was covered in some cloth, that then slipped into the hole in the stand and was then flush with the stand when you looked at it.

The back was without a cover, I assume so you could have a crossover under the stand and the cables going in under the stand.

I think those wooden cross braces were 4x2, as I say a very tight fit as I remember asking if the stand would not come apart with the amount of hammering into place it took.

The stands also were seriously heavy, am not sure if they were special ones made, I had the ones before that had all four corners with struts but they were nothing like the weight these were, lifting one in each hand you knew you were carrying some weight.

Hope this helps a little.

Cheers

John
 
Youll find it hard to add lead shot to the stands as they should be solid steel.

David,

I can honestly say I have never inspected the stands that closely but at 14kg I doubt they are solid and I don't think they would 'ring' like they do if they were solid?? I'm going to have a closer look me thinks.

Regards

Richard
 
Only the uprights are solid, this is the last revision of isobarik stands and quite an improvement on the older types.
 
David,

That's me back home now and having measured the stand at 41 x 38 x 23cm and then going over to imperial = 17.45ft of material which with 1" square solid bar at 3.41lbs/ ft would make an entirely solid construction weigh 27kg (or thereabouts).

If the uprights were solid that would weigh in at circa 3.85kgs alone and if the balance were say, 3mm thick walled tube, that would be circa 9.5kg making all up weight of circa 13.3kgs which is pretty close to what they do weigh in reality.

It should there be possible to get sand/ shot into the stands if required????

I really do need to get out more. :(

Regards

Richard
 
You can tell if the uprights are solid just by tapping them. If theyre not I wouldnt recommend filling as it normally messes stuff up.

Some panels would be a good idea if like me you go for tight bass. Without the panels they sound fruitier..
 
+1 for using the panels, I tried without for a few weeks when running aktiv the theory being that shmbo would think them less imposing but they sounded better with them in
Rgds
Stuart
 
.. the stands on the first pair had the earlier stand with the two vertical strut towards the middle of the front.

That's the stands that came with my Isobariks. I bought a pair of Mana Isobarik stands fairly quickly. Anyone who is familiar with Mana under speakers will tell you that it's not subtle. Mana stands are no longer available but if anyone would like to have a pair of Isobarik stands made I could be persuaded to measure them up for you.
 
Good Evening All,

I'd assume the fill-in panels will likely be MDF??? I wonder how much it would cost to have some custom made??????

Regards

Richard
 
the panels are indeed MDF , with a small step in size between the inner and outer halves.covered by what looks like fairly standard grill cloth which gives a nice snug fit.
Rgds
Stuart
 
David,

So now I need to hold out my begging bowl to see if anybody has a set of infill panels they don't want..............

Regards

Richard

Bet you wish now that you'd hung on to the ones you sold in March :)

Can you remember whether they were screwed or glued to the frames
 
Bet you wish now that you'd hung on to the ones you sold in March :)

Can you remember whether they were screwed or glued to the frames

Yes I wish I'd held on to them......

All three sets I've sold have been 'held' in place by the external crossover PCB with no sign of any glue or screws.

Worst case is I could make my own :D

Regards

Richard
 
Richard, Davids question is quite valid, I don't understand your reply to him especially as he has been so helpful to you.
Re stand panels, they can have some benefits to the overall performance, if correctly installed can reduce ringing in the metal stand, some have filled the void with materials that in their opinion aid the overall sound (I certainly did).

Regds
David

When my original Isobariks were installed the dealer supplied acoustic wadding which he stuffed tight inside the stand/panels. He also claimed that further improvements to SQ could be achieved by filling the gap between the bottom of the speaker and the stand with silicon sealant. However I didn't try this, (and still haven't) as I didn't fancy gunking up the bottoms of what was then an expensive pair of brand new speakers, so I can't comment on whether this would make any difference.

Other things that have been suggested by various brik owners, is to put coins between the top spikes of the stand and the base of the speakers, and also to tilt the speakers back slightly, which is supposed to improve imaging. I have never got round to trying these suggestions either.

One thing I did do is to place a brace between the back of the speaker near the top, and the wall. Someone suggested this (I read somewhere) after accidentally dropping a toilet roll behind one of his speakers (how?) which became wedged and apparently improved SQ:). I use a wooden dowels cut to size, not sure exactly why this makes a difference, but it does, one theory is that it makes the speakers much more rigid, so there is no movement/rocking at all.
 
I use a wooden dowels cut to size, not sure exactly why this makes a difference, but it does, one theory is that it makes the speakers much more rigid, so there is no movement/rocking at all.

The idea that the more stable the speaker is the better makes perfect sense. From a physics perspective how can you argue with it? Yet Mana rings when you hit it and anything on a few Stages wobbles when you shove it! I can't pretend to know why this seemingly obvious contradiction works.
 
In fairness to Linn I was speaking to Hi-Fi Corner on Wednesday and they did point out that the Exactbox 6 is an Akurate level device whereas the Exactbox I is at the Majik level..........

Anyhows didn't a certain Mr. John Prescott have the moniker 'Two Jags' at one point.....

Regards

Richard
Well it was. They're both badged Akurate now.

They're both Katalyst DACs at Akurate level. But the amps in the Exaktbox-i are Majik level amps.

What you get with the 6 channel is a far better board layout, a power supply dedicated to just the one job, much less internal noise from the amp section. And no power amps. Sometimes less can be more from performance terms, although in material terms it is a struggle to come to terms with less functionality for more money.

Look across the range and you'll find from Majik to Klimax, as the price goes up, the funcitionality goes down. But the musicality goes up.

I have an Exaktbox-i and a regular Exaktbox, both with Katalyst - I should try a comparison of the DAC only sections one day.
 
Good Evening All,

OK so now I'm on a learning curve with DATS V3 assisted by Neil. Looks like I'm going to have to take a step back to take advantage of the 6 channel Exactbox Hi-Fi Corner now have and work on the 10 channel bit later.

I fed the DATS signal into all 5 pairs of sockets on both speakers which produces some 54Mb of data............

QFKXeMa.jpg


Memory 1 is the rear woofer, Memory 2 is the front woofer, Memory 3 is the top midrange, Memory 4 is the front midrange and Memory 5 is the two tweeters in series.

I'll now need to do some rewiring to take things back to (almost) how they left the factory i.e the two woofers and midrange in parallel.

Neil also wants me to conduct some on and off axis measurements using REW so I know what I'll be doing tomorrow evening..........

Regards

Richard
 


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