advertisement


Old Potterton boiler down. Advice etc. welcomed.

Mike Reed

pfm Member
Our 35+ (???) y.o. Potterton Netaheat 10-16 II failed to ignite on Sunday morning. It has been utterly reliable for the 20 years we've been here. Unfortunately and Sod's law, our plumber is away today for a 10 day hol., but he thinks, from my investigations, that it might be the gas valve/solenoids etc.

When I dropped the panel on Sunday, I noticed that there was no electricity getting through to the boiler, despite all good at the plug. On Tuesday morning I substituted a made-up lead and there was juice showing on all contacts and fuse. I only have a neon tester but it was clear that there had been a break in the very old lead. Coincidence or caused by sth internal, I know not.

However, the fan comes on upon switch-on, regardless of the timer and on/off position; not sure why unless it defaulted to the on position from Sunday morning and has become inoperative. After a few sec's it clicks once, though I can't see a pilot light, but nothing happens after that. Previously, it was the same procedure but fired up within 5 or so sec's.

I've spent some time reading up on this boiler and faults experienced by others (though from 2007/8/9 !). Have I missed anything obvious (I don't have meters or expertise) ?

I've no problems about getting a new boiler because my system needs flushing, new TRVs etc and was thinking about this for the spring/summer (not Jan./Feb.!). However, as it now looks like many weeks of around 15 degrees in occupied rooms and moving heaters about, I wonder if there's sth I can do or have missed. The 18 y.o. immersion heater works, amazingly (it has never been used), but hot water is quite limited; because, I think, the top-mounted immersion only heats the top of the big cylinder and the airing cupboard just ain't one any more.

Sorry; long text but wanted to give all info. Help/advice from the pfm plumbing fraternity and other informed fishies would warm my 81 y.o. bones.:). (My wife, Eskimo Nell, is a lot younger and quite content with the upheaval with a radiant heater in front of her.
 
If the gas control valve has failed, it is unlikely that a spare will be available, but never say never.
More likely is failure of the flame failure device, which is very highly likely to be replaceable.

You can Google for these and see what is available. The gas-fitter failed to find a control valve for my 20+++ year old boiler a few years back, but I managed to find one only 20 miles away, not far from the gas-fitter.

Old boilers have almost no parts in them to fail so it should be very easy to track down what has failed - I found the control valve failure on mine within a few minutes using a DMM.
 
My concern would be spare parts. We replaced our Potterton in December (of course) 2020 after 20 years service as if certain items failed we would be without heating. We are lucky and have a wood burning stove as backup. Hope you manage to get it going!
 
At that age you should consider replacement of the system as newer ones are highly efficient by comparison.

With fuel costs as they are it might save you a couple of quid longer term.
 
Might be scaremongering, also tempting fate but our 30yo boiler is still going strong and the BG engineer who did the regular service advised getting a boiler that is "Hydrogen Ready" when we decide/are forced to replace. Makes sense if Maggie gave away all our gas/there's none left/ the Russians are holding us to ransom/saving the planet he recommended Worcester Bosch.
 
Hope you manage to get it going!

Thanks David, but although gas valves for this can be found on eBay, I can't be sure that this IS the problem. Also, spending, what, £250 + of a diagnosis and spare part on a very old boiler doesn't seen a good idea.
 
the BG engineer who did the regular service advised getting a boiler that is "Hydrogen Ready" when we decide/are forced to replace.

The combi recently installed in a flat was 'hydrogen ready' (whatever that really means in practice (a bit like the TV claims for high def. a decade or so ago) but hydrogen for domestic boilers is a long way off and it's gas for at least the rest of my eighties (cynic?). Prob. all new boilers are 'hydrogen ready' nowadays.
 
The combi recently installed in a flat was 'hydrogen ready' (whatever that really means in practice (a bit like the TV claims for high def. a decade or so ago) but hydrogen for domestic boilers is a long way off and it's gas for at least the rest of my eighties (cynic?). Prob. all new boilers are 'hydrogen ready' nowadays.

Town gas had a high hydrogen content, and the introduction of north sea gas in the 60s required most boilers to have their burners changed to cope. Funny how we're likely to transition back to a hydrogen mix to reduce carbon emissions.
 
Unable to tell from the description,
has the pilot lit ?
Does it stay lit or go out after 10-20 seconds ?
 
Surely we cannot be 'assisting' an unqualified person to be messing around with a gas boiler?

What? Checking a pilot light? Actually, with my eyesight, you may have a point ! :D I don't have a clue about boilers (well, a wee bit more than I had a couple of days ago maybe) but all I've done is to drop the panel and remove the housing above it and that only because my plumber asked whether the fan was operating) and previously connected another mains lead; that's simple electrical stuff. Wouldn't even think of doing anything to the boiler and it'd need a Gas Safe chappy anyway.

has the pilot lit ?
Does it stay lit or go out after 10-20 seconds ?

Thanks Ian. I did read about this, but haven't actually seen a pilot light yet after the ignition click. However, the boiler's in an awkward position with the pilot window away from me. I shall try again later with a mirror and get back to you.

Just a thought; if there's no light after the ignition click, the fault may lie in this area. E,g., dust etc. blocking the aperture? Maybe not a viable possibility? Dunno
 
I had a trace on my potterton PCB fail.. ran a jumper wire between the respective components and all worked perfectly again.

Check the PCB for damage.
 
presuming it's not quite as old as you Mike and isnt lit with a taper or have a manual ignighter for thr pilot there should be spark generated when it attempts to start, if it doesn't, heating engineer required unless you fancy living dangerously
 
I had a trace on my potterton PCB fail.. ran a jumper wire between the respective components and all worked perfectly again.

Check the PCB for damage.

You should never do that. There may be a safety reason that happened. You don’t want a gas appliance doing anything it shouldn’t do.
 
Could be just electronics, dry joints maybe on the pcb or a burned out earth bracket on that particular boiler. You’ll have to wait for your trusted engineer to return or see if you can find someone else who knows what they’re doing (good luck with that).
The case seal is very important on those as they’re positive pressure. There was a safety bulletin from gas safe some years ago. Don’t remove the case.
 
At that age you should consider replacement of the system as newer ones are highly efficient by comparison.

With fuel costs as they are it might save you a couple of quid longer term.

As someone who hung on to a 35 y/o Potterton til the bitter end I would actually agree with this. When I did finally and begrundingly cave in, I was genuinely amazed at how much more efficient modern (Worcester in our case) boilers are, and with gas prices only going in one direction (especially if Putin decides to flick the switch)….
 


advertisement


Back
Top