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Newbie TD124 restoration

bill spears

bill spears

Bill S
Hello new around here. Didn't see an introductions thread so will dive straight in

Am just starting a first ever plinth build for a Thorens TD124. Been promising myself this for so many years. I know the basics and have good diy skills but just putting some feelers out for any guidance /ideas /completed projects etc. Initially wanted to go the familiar Lenco route but the Thorens was acquired some time ago from a local auction for relatively little money. My electrical skills are few and I want to do it justice so will be sending it away for a full professional service. The plinth build however will be a dedicated diy project which I’m really looking forward to : )

Oh... how do I upload pictures here, from personal files on my computer ? When I click on the 'add and image icon above' it asks me for a URL ?
 
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Hello Bill,

Welcome to the saner side of pfm. I assume that that is ice in the water of your avatar pic there. When I first looked, the lighting/reflections made it seem as though you were crouched upon a giant lily pad.

Speaking of images, I use postimages.org as hosting site, no login required, simply drag your photo in (or browse to it) and then copy the generated URL for forums to here.

Looking forward to seeing/hearing of your TD124 adventures.

Craig

P.S. You don't really need any electrical skills, if you can turn slotted screws, you're good!
 
Welcome Bill

I suggest you have a read of Tony L's Thorens 124 rebuild and then decide from there where you want to go and what you want to do:

Thorens TD-124/II restoration / upgrade | pink fish media

If you're not up for doing the 124 yourself, consider Jaap Peeps at Hanze HiFi in the Netherlands who is very highly rated with the 124.

I really like the 124 in a Ortofon style plinth. This one by Peak HiFi is very nice:

SMDAcousticsThorensT2.jpg
 
Everything I know about TD-124s is in my thread, though I’d advise either reading it all start to finish, or starting at the end and working backwards as there is much learning along the way. The tldr of that thread is a) the core problem is likely the belt, b) pretty much all modern belts are crap, and c) beware people selling very expensive aftermarket boutique items, self-proclaimed knowledge and servicing, as the real issue is likely the belt! It is impossible for a TD-124 to be too clean. That whole drive system needs to be absolutely spotless.

50307808201_2cf5b19a93_b.jpg


I got there in the end, it is a great deck, and ultimately I very much enjoyed the journey. I’d definitely advise anyone with basic mechanical aptitude to learn how to do this stuff themselves as it is fun and hugely satisfying. It is the basic mechanical servicing of a beautifully made classic turntable, not magic. It’s just a nice record player! The people claiming to be experts and often charging astronomical fees are entirely self-appointed and their fees of their own choosing. There is no ‘market rate’ for this!

I certainly learned a lot. There is some excellent advice all over the internet and many of us here on pfm have picked up enough to have the knowledge to get around most hurdles, so do consider taking it on yourself as you won’t be alone. Sharing this stuff is what this site exists for.

PS Instructions how to upload pics can be found in the FAQ in the reference room, though you need >3 posts before you can post any links (spam deterrent).
 
Thanks for the moral support guys, I'll need more of it to keep me going throughout the journey ! All advice gratefully received.
As for doing the mechanicals myself, I did consider it. Am pretty adept at most things practical but resources and time are often limited. I want to put my energy into the plinth build as that's where my skills are and it's what I enjoy the most. There's also a new table rack to construct.

Was considering sending the TT off to NorthWest analogue who I've heard good things about but havent decided yet. And yes have heard of Hanze HiFI, and also Schopper.
Considering these things are 50+ years old and I dont know it's history, it's likely the motor needs to be stripped, cleaned, bushes replaced etc. I bought it for for around £200 along with an SME3009 tonearm so an absolute bargain. It's a MkII and cosmetically very tidy.
I can see how easily it is to run up unnecessary costs though. Received in the post today a set of 'deluxe' Thorens mushrooms which cost over 40quid (for basically 4 small blobs of silicone !!) Bit annoyed about it really as I'm usually more savvy.
 
Craig B said:
Hello Bill,

Welcome to the saner side of pfm. I assume that that is ice in the water of your avatar pic there. When I first looked, the lighting/reflections made it seem as though you were crouched upon a giant lily pad
Click to expand...

Haha yes I see what you mean. It's a frozen quarry in January ! Look up 'The Wim Hof Method' : )
 
bill spears said:
Haha yes I see what you mean. It's a frozen quarry in January ! Look up 'The Wim Hof Method' : )
Click to expand...
No need to look it up, Bill, I'm an ex-pat Newfoundlander and have swam with the icebergs (not for some decades mind).

Here's a Newfie from Twillingate demonstrating how it is done...(there's a video of him swimming out to it here, if you are interested)

iceberg-swim-and-climb-twillingate.jpg


That pic is from July, 2017, so his testicles have likely dropped back down by now.
 
bill spears said:
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Click to expand...
We call that the before pic, round these parts. I'll just tuck it in here for future reference/convenience, if that's ok with you(?).

The chassis appears to be in superb condition. A good cleaning and possibly a bit of black lacquer touchup on the tonearm board, and one would think it just back from a full restoration (or new out of the box, for that matter).

There are 8, possibly 9, SME metal parts/fasteners that are obviously missing, though (plus 4 x rubber bushings that are likely perished/crushed to death). Possibly more, should you not have the arm cable. Should you not have these, I'll do you up a list with links to sources later on.

Photos with platters off, and of the underside, would also help us to help you (just be careful not to lay it upside down with the tonearm on).

DSC-4903.jpg
 
Think I have most of the other parts.....somewhere, bias, rider weight etc. Not familiar with the set up though. The tonearm cable and screening can is present plus also has a Shure V15 MkIII

Yes thats just dust you see on the armboard. It's been lying ontop a cupboard in the house for years just waiting. The paintwork really is very tidy. I want to make a nice hardwood armboard for it.
Will upload a picture of the undersides later
 
Looks like a bargain for £200, well done!

It is clearly on its second arm as the 3009 S2 Improved wasn’t released until well into the 1970s and the 124 was gone by 1967-8 or so (though some dead stock was sold after that). What is the cartridge?

One thing to be very aware of when handling it as it is out of a plinth is the metal control ‘belt’ that links the speed/power switch to the cam system. It is apparently very easy to break, and if you do you are out £90 or so! I’ve never done so, but I’ve read about many who have.
 
Here's nice clear shot of the underside of TD 124 for reference, including the control belt mentioned by Tony. Note the 'modern' 3-conductor power lead with ground connection to chassis (via the yellow wire with blue insulated spade connector there).

This one has also had the motor serviced/rebuilt and an aftermarket thrust bearing fitted.

Thorens_TD_124_det5_web.jpg
 
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Had the feeling it was possibly all original when purchased at a house clearance auction, but obviously dont know the history. It was sitting in a rather shoddy hollow plinth with nasty wood veneer. Cart is a Shure V15 III although stylus is broke.

Fragile belt issue noted... thanks. I'm handling it quite a bit because of starting work on the plinth template. I'm diving in to your thread Tony on the restoration you did
 
Thanks for those...all very useful. Yes it's easy to loose a few hours in the TD124 Dept !
I'm trying to strike a balance of putting my own stamp on the plinth design, without going down the boy racer path. It's an agricultural looking TT so am hoping for an industrial type of look
 
Ok so it's been a few weeks but am plugging away at this plinth design. The original idea was to use a slate cut-out but as you can see we had a disaster on the water jet cutter. Rather than risk another piece I decided to use a sheet of steel for the top surface. This obviously raises concern about negative acoustical properties ie: the metal chassis of the turntable against the steel plate. Fairly sure this can be overcome by bonding the steel to some acoustimat (or standard rubber matting) and then to some 25mm thick birch ply. Initial trials seem good and there is no 'ringing' whatsoever when the surface is struck, it's a completely dull thud. The Thorens also sits on it's silicone mushrooms, further isolating from the plinth surface.
IMG-0408.jpg


Was quite chuffed I managed to cut an accurate steel template using a very old and well worn jigsaw
IMG-0403.jpg


IMG-0442.jpg


Am going to try a 'Blueing' technique on the steel. Basically heat with a propane torch and then dip in a bath of Linseed oil. Might be tricky to get a uniform heat but if all fails will probably go for powder coating. The outer wood frame will be 2 pieces of 18mm birch ply laminated together

IMG-0449.jpg
 
IMG-0660.jpg

Blueing partially successful but as anticipated (cant see it in the photo) difficult to get a clean uniform colour. Top plate is now at the sprayers for a powder coat.
THORENS nameplate was cut by the lazer people and will be lit from underneath
 
bill spears said:
IMG-0660.jpg

Blueing partially successful but as anticipated (cant see it in the photo) difficult to get a clean uniform colour. Top plate is now at the sprayers for a powder coat.
THORENS nameplate was cut by the lazer people and will be lit from underneath
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Nice work, Bill.

It appears that your illuminated 'THORENS' nameplate will be reading along the tonearm side.
 
Just a mock-up atm and still loads to do
Yes Craig it's alongside the tonearm. Dont know why but I was just drawn to that position. Tonearm doesn't obscure but am still tweaking alot

IMG-0014.jpg
 
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