pickwickpapers
pfm Member
I have a D/D 'table - and seem to hear any amount of pitch / tone instability which I mostly put down to recording / mastering equipment or record eccentricity.
I bolted on my Ekos and threw in a Mike New bearing. Considering the deck had cost me £200 with a Rega RB300, I did not think spending £500 on a beautifully made bearing was going overboard.
At that point I compared it to a Klimax Sondek and felt that its noticeably better speed stability edged it ahead. My Technics was sporting a Dynavector XX-2 into Uphorik. Arguably the Sondek retrieved an iota more detail via Kandid/Urika but it was barely noticeable whereas the way the Technics delivered tunes and beats and sustained notes was well ahead, to my ears.
Thanks, thats really interesting and useful advice. Out of interest did you add the MN bearing and the Ekos in one go ? If not can you say what each change added to the sound of the deck - bearing and arm?
I've been wondering for some time what the Naim aro would sound like on the Technics ?
Whilst listening to the Technics concentration kept drifting, so i guess that is equivalent to not hunming.
Intrigued by Pink Triangle as a suspended belt drive that i believe are more neutral than pre Cirkus LP12s. I know they were not necessarily as reliable but there are still parts and people who service them around.
Have to say, I rather like the look. Classic and solid.The main drawback for Technics TTs is how fugly they look. Only my opinion but I couldn’t have one in the house
I switched first from Rega RB300 to Ekos II. My recollection is that this change brought a little more clarity, detail and control, but perhaps not as much as the cost difference might justify. I had spent some time comparing different tightnesses of mounting nut on the RB300, on the advice of the very helpful proprietor of Origin Live, and concluded that it was a trade-off between dryness and detail. I recall that the Ekos was better than any variation of RB300, and the trade-off in various tightnesses of mounting screw on the Ekos was narrower but of similar effect.
I added the MN bearing later and can make no claim that it significantly bettered the stock bearing, but to this day I have still not modified the chassis with the stiffer bolts and brace supplied, so I can't claim to have heard the MN bearing at its theoretical best. I should investigate this issue further when I have time, but I suspect the stock bearing is very adequately engineered, knowing Technics, so I will need some time on my hands to go further. I'm sorry I can't provide more views on this question.
I can say that I have removed and reboxed power supplies from several SL-1200s and always concluded that they sounded very satisfactory afterwards, with what I suspect is improved channel separation, strangely, don't ask me why.
I very much like the look of the 1200 MkII, it really is a design classic. Less keen on the 1210.
PS The blue LED strobe lamp on the modern variants is an abomination, a heresy, an act of treason against audio history, and just plain ugly. If I’d kept the G I’d have certainly found a way to replace it with the traditional yellow/orange colour.
I don’t like the DJ style decks in terms of appearance but don’t doubt their build qualityHave to say, I rather like the look. Classic and solid.
Beats some of the "hair shirt" amps and other kit looking like my dad made it in his shed I've had over the years tbh.
I don’t like the DJ style decks in terms of appearance but don’t doubt their build quality
It looks better than the more recent ones but still horrible IMHO.
I just look at it as a hifi deck DJs started to use rather than a DJ deck. The MkI above was introduced as a pretty high-end hi-fi deck (around 2-3x the price of an LP12 IIRC!). The MkII ups the damping, the MkI has a very resonant plastic base, plus it adds a big pitch slider rather than the two knobs.
PS Studio 54 used Thorens TD125s!
As stated elsewhere I lasted literally one evening with an SL1200G (the £2.5k one). I just had that sinking feeling as soon as I stuck it in as whilst it was objectively superb (silent, great pitch etc) it just sounded totally dead in the water. It just didn’t sing/communicate. I stuck the TD-124 back in and Dexter Gordon was alive again. I can’t explain it beyond having a feeling it is far more to do with mass and damping than drive mechanism. The 124 has a laughably poor noise floor compared to the Technics, and whilst I never notice any pitch instability at all (mine has the vastly superior iron sub-platter, I never got on with the light alloy one, it just sounds ‘vague’ by comparison), I’m sure the Technics would murder it on specification as it is basically perfect, or as close as one can achieve with vinyl replay.
The 124 has obvious flaws; it rumbles a little (I have very full-range speakers, so can hear just a hint between tracks) and as with all ancient machinery takes a little time to warm up to speed and needs ongoing servicing (I hate modern 124 drive belts with a passion, they are all wrong in some way). As such it becomes a hobby in itself, but the thing sounds bloody great! It really communicates. Put a really well recorded similar vintage jazz album on and it is clear we have learned next to nothing in the past 50 years. The 124 just sounded so much better to my taste/priorities I just boxed the 1200 up and accepted I’d made a mistake that would cost me some real money. Even so it was a useful evening as it gave me a highly respected modern benchmark to compare my ongoing 124 restoration against. I’m now far more confident with my choices.
I’m sure the 1200 could be improved with mats, feet and countless other tweaks, maybe significantly, but we are talking a close to 1966 spec 124/3009 here! Carts were a 2M Black and 540/II. I even used the same arm lead once I realised the extent to which I preferred the 124 to rule that out (my 3009 has been modded with the later SME RCA armbase, my arm lead is vdH 501).
PS FWIW I still love the idea of direct drive as it is just the most logical way to drive a turntable by far, so I’d be curious to try something like a Trio L07D, Micro Seiki DDX, Pioneer Exclusive or whatever. I’d actually like to hear an old JBE slate as that looks like quite a sensible way to make a record deck. They are one of those quirky outsiders that if a mint boxed SME cut one landed on eBay for £200 or so I’d likely take a punt!