The panel looks good Gareth. I'm looking for people with milling equipment and skills to help with my Modushop 10mm panels. Will start another thread for this.
Here is my Starfish effort so far. PCB finished - full monty 1.2 build, everything there. Wanted to try the full complement of feedback components and start from there.
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/6003/starfish1f.jpg
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/3235/starfish2.jpg
Looks great, but how does it sound?
Any benefit in using these: http://www.pinkfishmedia.net/forum/showthread.php?t=23208 in place of the 337/1086's in the circuit? Worth an experiment?
Cheers,
Sam
The panel looks good Gareth. I'm looking for people with milling equipment and skills to help with my Modushop 10mm panels. Will start another thread for this.
Here is my Starfish effort so far. PCB finished - full monty 1.2 build, everything there. Wanted to try the full complement of feedback components and start from there.
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/6003/starfish1f.jpg
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/3235/starfish2.jpg
Hopefully find out this weekend. Need to test circuits, rig up a HP power supply and make some DIN interconnects.
The panel looks good Gareth. I'm looking for people with milling equipment and skills to help with my Modushop 10mm panels. Will start another thread for this.
Here is my Starfish effort so far. PCB finished - full monty 1.2 build, everything there. Wanted to try the full complement of feedback components and start from there.
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/6003/starfish1f.jpg
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/3235/starfish2.jpg
You should also do the BOM-specified mods to C110, C210, C114 and C214. Especially C114 and C214
Is that the 10 and the 22uf Wima's?
Cheers
Gareth
Yup.
make sure that the heatsinks on the nert transistor dont touch each other - the tabs are at different potentials.
I'd suggest using a linear offboard supply if you can. I use a wall wart one - although it's more of a brick than a wart.
The HP power supplies are usually SMPS.
This can work ok, but you can also get interactions between the HP SMPS and the traco SMPS onboard.
You could try a, say, 100uF cap directly between the input pins on the traco.
Jim.
Looking nice. I'm worried about that oscon: there's 30V across that capacitor... does it have a high enough rating? It looks suspiciously like a 56uF/25V but I can't tell for sure. You should also do the BOM-specified mods to C110, C210, C114 and C214. Especially C114 and C214
Very clean build, I think you're going to be very happy. What's you current preamp?
Carl
Where can I get them from please? is there a Farnell or RS number?
Is the 100uF fix a good solution, as in does it sort the interaction problem completely? Could I power Starfish from my NAP 140 (24V I think) until i sort a better supply?
Which SMPS do you have Jim? Post a link.
Ok Carl I'll do the mods. What exactly were the reasons for the mods and how much better without the components?
At the moment I have a NAC72/140 set which i think are brilliant. The 140 will be with the Starfish until I sort out my NCC200's whenever... be interesting to see how good the fish really is and how far it can go. I'll spend some money on this hobby but within the realms of sanity!
Here is my Starfish effort so far. PCB finished - full monty 1.2 build, everything there. Wanted to try the full complement of feedback components and start from there.
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/6003/starfish1f.jpg
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/3235/starfish2.jpg