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NAP 250 and speaker cables

Don't know anything about your cables but I have owned a CB 250 and a 250.2 (which is what you have) and the 250.2 is far less fussy about cables. I can recommend Chord Epic and Sarum or Telerium from experience, either of them I found vastly preferable to Naca5, which, to my ears, is crude and lacking.

250.2 is as fussy (electrically) as the older 250 so you should still be using low capacitance cable of the correct length.
 
You can safely use anything of convention parallel construction.
That means standard figure 8 type and spaced conductor 'dumbbell' types.

Avoid anything plaited, twisted, flat parallel, or spiralled.

Basically, if it looks like QED 79 strand or NACA5 it's safe
 
I changed from NAC A5 to Atlas Hyper 2.0 as I needed to route through a wall and the Atlas was easier to fit. I was aiming for convenience rather than performance, but the quite obvious increase in clarity, detail and bass surprised me (but not my dealer). My NAC A5 was quite old though, if that matters.
 
250.2 is as fussy (electrically) as the older 250 so you should still be using low capacitance cable of the correct length.

ISTR that Naim expressed the view that the newer series was much more tolerant of other cables than earlier cb and olive versions. Certainly that's what I've found and have used all of them. In any case I don't think that "any" cable is being advocated, merely those that have been found to work.
 
With the 250 I’d personally stick with the excellent well–balanced Naim cable – a bit obvious really (system synergy) - or the Linn mentioned.

Other makes probably do ‘other hifi things’ but may lose out on basics like timing.

Lose the timing and you’ve lost the music.
Just my view.
 
You can safely use anything of convention parallel construction.
That means standard figure 8 type and spaced conductor 'dumbbell' types.

Avoid anything plaited, twisted, flat parallel, or spiralled.

Basically, if it looks like QED 79 strand or NACA5 it's safe

Twaddle

I have in front of me the Naim manual circa 250/1 era.
I quote

"for best results Naim Audio's own speaker cable should be used...Alternatively use two conductors of 4 sq mm single core multistrand wire (RS type 360-396) lightly twisted together, about 4 turns per metre...

Nowt wrong with multistrand twisted.
 
Twaddle

I have in front of me the Naim manual circa 250/1 era.
I quote

"for best results Naim Audio's own speaker cable should be used...Alternatively use two conductors of 4 sq mm single core multistrand wire (RS type 360-396) lightly twisted together, about 4 turns per metre...

Nowt wrong with multistrand twisted.

Of course it isn't twaddle - 4 twists per meter is bugger-all electrically and a very rare construction for a bought loudspeaker cable. That level of twisting simply stops the wires flapping around and the advice was given to those buying single conductors to DIY their own cable - back in the stone age.

I'm giving general advice for today, and generally people should avoid twisted cables because there are usually far more than 4 turns per meter.
 
Robert,

Can you explain to me why twisting the cables will make any electrical difference to a cable? Loops, of course make a difference, but twists?
 
Twisting in the common construction pulls the conductors closely and uniformly together which reduces inductance and increases capacitance compared to just running them near each other. This is desirable if you want a consistent and predictable characteristic.

Otherwise the twisting makes no difference. IMO.

Paul
 
re: twists
if you twist any pair of wires (or wool or cotton fibres for example) together their length will reduce. Therefore you will need a longer pair to begin with for the same final length. While twisting you're keeping them in very close physical contact for a long length. Two electrical conductors separated by an insulator is a rudimentary capacitor. The longer the length the bigger the capacitance of this cable. Separating the conductors like the dumb-bell construction of e.g. NACA5 reduces hugely the capacitance of the cable. Similarly only lightly twisting them together should achieve the same effect.

Mark.
 
Robert,

Can you explain to me why twisting the cables will make any electrical difference to a cable? Loops, of course make a difference, but twists?

Much as Mark has explained.

I'm really talking about tightly twisted cable.
Lightly twisting two conductors as in the advice given by Naim for the old RS 56 strand gives you something little different electrically to standard Fig 8, it just keeps two individual conductors uniform and is neater.

To remove geometry concerns just stay with dumbbell (preferably) or traditional F8.
 
I always wondered (though not enough to actually try it...) what the effect would be of routing the two conductors different ways around the room, so that they were a long way apart. This would make the capacitance essentially zero, and the inductance too (I think - I have much more difficulty getting my head around inductance!). Not sure if this is good or bad, but sure will upset the wife, who doesn't like wires.
 
That would increase the inductance/minimise the capacitance. If you coiled each conductor a bit on its way the inductance would rise further, as long as the out and back are separated.

You could always just add an actual inductor...

Paul
 
Running two wires around the room on different routes would be a great way to pick up undesirable RF interference that could find its way back into the amp. In this respect (very) twisted pair cable is used where common mode rejection is desirable above increased capacitance. Some speaker cables feature this as part of their design - the opposite of NacA5
 
Easily done. Les's NCC200 boards have these where Naim's don't and guess which one is unconditionally stable?
They also have reduced open loop gain.

In this respect (very) twisted pair cable is used where common mode rejection is desirable above increased capacitance.
You're going to have to explain this in terms of a power amp output.

Paul
 


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