advertisement


NaNDAC Naim Shoebox DAC Project

booja30

pfm Member
Warning: If you're expecting an audio-centric, better sound-seeking audiophile project, look elsewhere! This is purely a cosmetic effort, with plenty of experimentation, tearing apart, desoldering, reconfiguring, chopping, hacking, 3D printing, etc. involved.

I've had this NAIT 2 for a while now, and have really enjoyed it with a surprisingly good Chromecast Audio as the main source. But I wanted to experiment with a stand-alone DAC to see if it was really worth it in this setup.

I wanted a DAC with 2 or more optical inputs because both the CCA and our TV only have optical digital outputs. I didn't want to spend a lot on this experiment, and I didn't want something huge sitting next to this nice, compact integrated amp. Also, a variable output would be very useful since the NAIT has very sensitive inputs.

The closest thing I could find to fit the bill was a Beresford DAC. I bought a used TC-7510 on eBay for £34, and it arrived with some of the selector buttons smashed in through the faceplate (bad packing job + heavy handed courier?). Shipping from Spain is a PITA so rather than send it back, I opened it up. One of the little PCB mounted switches was bent, and a little part that looked like a sequin had fallen out (spring contact). I got it working again, somewhat. But it was kind of ugly to start with, and dang it, I needed a project. I had recently come across a Naim shoebox sleeve for a good price. This would be fun to shoehorn in there if I could manage to make it fit.

The DAC has two PCBs in it. The front one has all the buttons, switching circuits, volume pot, headphone jack, LEDs, etc. The back one has all D/As, caps, and other stuff that I don't know what it is. The two boards were connected by two ribbon cables.

To make it work, I'd have to cut ~5 cm from the front PCB width. Fortunately, one end of the board was just traces to get signals from the ribbon cable to the volume pot. I cut the PCB narrower and then ran wires directly from the back board to the pot. I also ended up replacing the ribbons with individual wires since it was hard to shift the boards relative to each other the way it was.

Ird9Pez_61S3sglepslEKDVKEeBaXn58IwNPEGM07-Ni8mi_ep49dsHxXH5WvOMJVEQ5iiE463jC1mTn3Ud9qVps-5gU2S7vhbSAyfoG-jMRrdOvBYGo6bZREETPgXzub8Qm0TLE6VjfCpLfy7l6Vp80LDGPbzoxiivPauh4lIFHsTXUHFxbFHwxcILc8cp0d0W0A2u_HCbvXkxEcNWgqahWgnCIcHLtZXDp2NC7PoVTma6vfdq5EKdRtJ94tjaLsQvmyjYhf_OVxtsr3kHqDvq374OFq8wiFEE8nj73Xp6lvo5hZoTagRGTAjohoQuSWCkG18mFJgTif80gVG9UbgBrGTW8Mv4SbCr4SOvJ1ZbnVUSnm2XrH38hr4Hes33I-kQsSL3QxblPyTKJZCZSlEiqKDxB5OUfk_TsmW4Yxvzxthb9uVqFVgi4Fc7U5OjV45U-QN6fY2sqXl5y_8YARXdF9KcdVUT-cvTlwlIrPImxvmwBL2jzqTCYEMPzX0XdficNE5bAifV05GcZzs8nAY7e1iEhkwFt5KdyCQrAF-2Dpf9WnI6S2ThZ0RJEup8l4LQLMkYI67PhSm-GHv30COy_jZfugrd5xYqK4hw0=w800-no


I also started experimenting with a multimeter and trying to figure out how the selector and power buttons worked. It turns out they're all connected to +10V on one side, and the other side goes back to the ribbon, so some mystery chip on the back board. I wanted to convert from the ugly gold momentary contact buttons to something nicer. Maybe a rotary switch. I thought it might be a problem to go from a MC switch that pulses some chip somewhere, to a rotary that would effectively be like holding the selected input button down all the time. But I did some measurements and found that whatever was on the other end was actually sending back a few volts on whatever input's switch line was selected. If I grounded it, it would actually lose the selection and multiple input LEDs would light up. So sending 10V to it continuously instead of momentarily wasn't a problem.

To make things fit, I took the whole DAC apart and cut the metal case half laterally, and then narrowed it a few cms so I could use the back fascia as-is. To keep the two PCBs together, I quickly learned some CAD skills (Fusion 360), and then also learned some 3D printing skills. :) I designed a frame to keep the cards together and mounted this assembly on a conveniently sized plastic cutting board from the corner store.

-P7H0MnGIzS-nKgPfIqckBauUqiMqADnwNgl6sONA2OgFbvI7IxcI-ANpE7q_diKYI9Fatn9Ff9OlW0YbomZUjRDQj_YasU8bNIyv8jUURI1ZivFn-xtwg1xWRfSLPBxK5TuqJnNkH8LiVCXvaUQ8SLQvBiEd6ojxjExpX0RqO_p5GgHvFhfokn6LQdgquU4D_WzSINvs_lE9mAjwuNEVrJc17pcGEE4_QCIaaqzBs3feLt9Fh1WXHWVHNgAbHMJa3jmhU-vqsvQd_zY9nQ-kdAH8GALl-bXt2ZmlJqw0qaiRZzJfGRS3CYW04s1FeaEFxygRFdIzFv3blqynG-3iaHuLLoVtdmmasnHRViFILAi-U31DDYQSLujBA01gpsAMw30WkDsDz5P2GdFoCIIVdzzhr0gize5dojJvmVl_Njw2vQohcts1CdDjsBP1GUpwfktY8MplIRRaeTzjPmkYMkybvM_Z7oD3Wlt26EZMH-TOt5YnYpl-LkJoCu3xncf_jihA7pUeVGcHUj4gh8EA7eZGBU-TBXA7kuxqFegWDZ88iLzbgbH_VI2AlySDwvEm7M0nni3iCVjXpKBynPNoP2NGA6LHEdajEusSwDf=w800-no


For the front faceplate, I knew I'd need some sort of frame to hold a rotary switch, some fascia material, and the power button. With a little trial and error (and some more CAD learning), I had something sturdy 3D printed that held the rotary switch in place (the Lorlin switches are hard to turn at first!). For the power button, I decided to use the existing PCB switch. For the button, I just used one of the ugly gold ones from the original DAC box but sanded it down to black plastic by chucking it in a drill and using sandpaper. To span the gap between the microswitch and the faceplate I made guides to hold a length of CF rod that I 'stole' from a cat toy.

WezqpuF-VXMvSsDe7tLCC2ntilKEOdG_WfJlfPRtHi5CTDV6ibpp_e1d9lX7W_6Wv7zZJa2QSjpCDUITpLjN7KXCzhv2aEuievoQvUgGv7F1ZpIiu4PH4yo-UI6oEN5_MP3BLPxWo0vrcy-IBYQBblMEMvHJyDuaWNL2mFrD50wRq4aRYFlXSD1CeLbyC2hNGScKCSMwrXFd3gRkPKrlp0My2SHUPaivzTT8ujXnmO5c0p08R-gBsBGiXhBW6BWVTNpKHjAk25K4gBoTdFXThx9Tcc7EU6AyI7LipA3lRM40-Y_paWWARy3ZTz8Ozv4XZfZE56VB9DCRv6JQwk33LrrDRAeMFLRJRXXIXKUnYX5b_sItlMR43JeE2X4YCQi5-opSUDjhShbWubHWzhLcGY2l8o-flC17ramfRjmh5h2QOxtxAy15MNgjpWfLdbz2IZ3rjIy1pX5TaEFF282pfngB2j7O71CRC5fAy-KkzCwKw_DxBnupPWfHK82e9pRYfr_dWT5liPY1iR-70SU7e_g51LjI0sOmGzTD1u5an2VuyuJ7IivvJNz4-RH2TOq9NnVW0eFRNSM8TchErwmEVuTo1VKVO1DNGlFSFicZ=w800-no


rWESj4ifWfhGvhMMdcpgDusnDDX-sTspyueEk9A6KokSzbauuvGECgKvfgC3mRcxb1KqoKGOUVWNc1se7yI2vHaFB0tyyptRGYhrbtCtR9aflGo08xDGDe4__4r_kBgaJt-pUc2BRE7V128gxQUVPnc4NH47vkR0ivtYWDUNIOEqlbTpzzcLRCYb_kdvhfD6fM_dip1B6OM4G8HYTZdTQCuxPbFMP_g-73DabyjwyQF_Y_CKAj_aSk1LqvyWNRc7y74v5itnbEOB8OxmqUnZitJPTnzhlVij6MNbq2oCF-j0R2vRYZr4k4vT1zuuLCRnlYa1WTVgL-O4YHxdH7OybfI4jnpxJA6ahD70Yqwsv5GCMKy6Y3x21qii9EUE00ODC08q9EjQNZ0qwoFz6GQrWOEDUnUT4JBaUDwaZPRmlee8sN1BFpTPYZK-053Glo2qQjz7e4BxB6spzFihpwEi2pAvRB6__LP0p62VqzD35RDb9HpJi0ZLODNgUQAWwyWzE6MUgxhG1n8rG6KXBF9KV0eGvTkyDyYfZ86GemiYoUT18kRzGrUtGeROMCCcnAVJB6NKkyQeL3nz-dJNcmLcI14vPVr3WrXuLtaBOEg3=w800-no


1G8CoGCc7LeNnlswBhBsoHEFmqaB6F6GilYKnXW18_d2Jan3UXD_Zpn9uSuCegwktsQVufHf0U38pvKG_XxUOdKAD9T2QcsKj6ryTHaj8ReH2384sDTSbUAYOLHzB9F9r70SS3B2GLbkLTfQy8aJhfcp1CW6_bnDG8l1y5G--rJfPblT14flxClXchjZiZJ2iNiUgIb17u4zoadnUvZE46zU5CgfUOCO2WUrKhsMlmlJ7d37o_AhetlB2nz4GTBMKXmOu0lZDatAePYZiFx0NfDU6QZeSJAEZAB3cbjQfWr0vHn5bNPhRT4pjji3gwy_4sACIbODySVd8YD6eI4jLPxxgR08pLyGhf-TyPIe4w8I1E5l9ybKZiyG9fzRe_2_Xw8U8YFQCrSpblW75LeMHITe81eyoY_NB3mdGeNxYCHhzKGryTn7ha-Cmci-YvhqcClTnwkJu8Aw0eP7Q3pP2eLe2O3ha7QV1tSGxgXS0A3RYU2h0zTJIafUIeStjFKqpXFHcRj5JW_HGhRVdIRu-0ezZ57J5DmP93wQ3BR-ValjCaLRtAYPYu9fhPPr1SSo41_BQnrUHNwHGvVjpVMPJ-8HEr1xnmvy1VLPcXSk=w800-no


For the fascia, I went to a tiny copy shop on the block and found a nice plastic presentation binder that had a similar texture to the NAIT's faceplate.

For the knob, I used some calipers and some trial and error with CAD, slicing software, and the 3D printer. It's not as dark as it should be -- NAIT 2's have black knobs, not normal CB gray knobs -- and it doesn't have the rough texture like the real knobs, but it works. I'm going to try to use some thinned acrylic model paint to darken it down. Being able to so quickly design something like this and then have it materialize is amazing! I went through several iterations of just this knob design, and it was really interesting to be able to start with a friction fit design, then work my way to a captive nut and screw that would work for both round and flatted shafts.

w5JIWj2YqBkJrbhPy3HSw6U2dgrV9gXZMolpixQgZ1h7OC4a0g4A9NCm4oD_I8kGw9Cgy6Gv-w1K_M-wDKkHQ62Slx22NKp-VZDJn3T6pH9pVPKk3tcDFFdSl3SYJ09lIpsA4NOQb1JxvKsXPAvFc1NUMlXSIXCQ8NhmZOlZZjMEi6s7t_lidoHnYaq8TA19EHUsxaO725WmpIyA39SPpGORlzjT3kLSQaSvYiCZ4kRahkoSfC3Rb58r_7A7GKzpyoqliE7-Tz4O6PmiDtXogYwStWgImHoHFflnj8aeutu8GXKVp83C6Pgf_ARwjOL6AqHvtwtb4gcNNIcLftKxNamN6w86I0s8RpJPOcsQk05nOsnO-p410_E_1RfWtf2pruhutEQ5yNx6g9lVie2NWPq6bp5TsrogWarD7BJWREaldxavgQ1n0MhFnjoVwcHY4vyvKKrF5U2l3kqEUHTyoqYo7B7hvzbPwr2WsxrZDVsbEHgx_IGBeuVcQVLKctbkLoQWFKgFLDQydU6lyNo5qMxMm8bWNKgmNjIv9aTFn-fOAtXEIAnTlsE3HhNaP26Uzf9ugqDhKCa-VZLgF1nhUXPnwvKltX7il3o1Cr5X=w800


Anyway, after all that manhandling, desoldering, soldering, desoldering, mounting, unmounting, etc. it all works great, and I'm really pleased with it. It looks nice with the NAIT 2, looks tons better than the generic Beresford TC-7510 IMO, and it sounds great. I've been too exhausted after this project to even care about whether it actually sounds better than the Chromecast Audio alone, but a project is about more than the end result, right? It's about learning, about getting frustrated, about burning yourself on the 3D printer, about staying up way too late many nights in a row. So even if it sounds worse than the CCA, I don't actually care!

HFjGz-dxvsZ0TS5eIWraUTAODZd5haGVLjDxQUEVXsOGXznHezDhlgvHEMt3blmyNEWfdR345B3RAQrp8KprQprUGaME0XPtsZTXKUbyr1Qk8o5qwbAH0RTHWVa6YiI3CWSwX68_buvu-vJxrIuaBeYM1D9R1lqtWgJ80_3UK0wwtTUPvWAyi877BNlbgel_8AWKlmdNcczmRzqcowKx0wC7E5-scUYmkyvu6DXhKv_5HvTBmrwtFs8JEI9GYQkhCpAKZX6X1nKJjVI9jtUMJx0vmuG27vPTWo7-oPdRiG938HtblRdb9krBkmJHfOj3bc8ewKbV3oAPdd7jmJbtdgsotQ-SVXnnZJX1wKnK7WYEWHo6oAnW-PhifAysPAYQNpCDVUAg-zZdZCskwQlennZXTZJsKAkkyJ6ldcvnVrBpihUWIvG6Rtn7OVRXIPGLGajWzYzbj0hwSOzqSlCqTCFj7c2HSXly69q5YfbzyoylJCbiIiGt7MCRF4AyG5i9vKszdV60wtxkiOHeJ9EbbEUMO6tx6ErrjUwOH7xwZUNP2OeHY9ljOciaErhpiuQDHo4PHOrasB-dJyjGr1vFm0WwwqoD1snAnyHnpKVP=w800-no


AsWNuf-2b0QgiRKF3jKLbGJNMhZIxo5Vm3Xtgjv0K4XQvG-eGGoNK8hp9_dcRBetWEupsvwdzv8cceGLtBKjg1UV7BszCaOh6sdHwyoU8aULVwm9-44_UAbP0yjKuHZiL3WM__JMIL7WZI8yIB4mU5ytwPQ_zGK8982HvA_67b6EfwcxwqbqApyxFAyku02P60iCPuh8XfE-UxnI4QKk3QO2zH4w3Xw3HJ6lkk4WW7mjZ3toHAy9VnxNmkmCsQepTs9xakpoEeSaFeQYKnm448bHUZMSdXG_8JxX9KAVLKepqHwiAIVpToqe56zFtDgGWAkBPUWd0LSW35COkQFA1HNBsTPUevbF5GU1P69QjKMMF13EqyAyrvQggMk0irOfcaVhj9nN0WCsLnXMapitN4KNA9HPLREfWuggpHDKGmsuYO0vJr-wBiZKN7qDDhp3BEEiyegLPICEmtO6teGbywuVxt2X91rwRHZ_uyjK_Ozau4ps4oymTu6SkkzpqoO7Ja_JZNqXsPCSWTtUTB81fEHV9dc9h8FJnIXywvnlexaWAVH7fF9z0BjgKQ7Qc2szF4MBOdr0d4oXuQQIy11Ey2NP1qzkMm81NNkZEI_K=w800


iUETzTzlD2QRf39mAyIDzIwxx8orSH2L2ZVPtKAWsCQ8G0XmTDX9oMi9Yn3qVU3pBo8Nf9QnNe5GPVOAxA2gwNAdO1e5WCWImBOcG_QjQjeOEJKylo2kzMldUDxzdtsfg9LMxUZ-06WaOoh2azuX9ODfFKfmV8oysxTJHsN-SWNrQOUZYrXCX89BMWepAUE_YICIkv4Z-wRNz8yQLYDAykCeZVOJu_Jn-xp8aVfCPC1Oq_-KxqOqbG-S9gDwx_9ZMkNjN3dtsAUerbVMqSfZV-AcgGIdxX2ZsXNZeGM8ARevDCr9RFpttzFn3Z4AXSpMLnogNr0lkn1-t0meedx4dVZhSQ8L5n_rkzuDsU_-xHT7Qj_ZGtkQ5EP_-epnRmmbI9op46pbLn-PsQYDQbc3dZebRb96rz4GQy1HwkiBgMqcK3oCBHKIfnRPPSA1mZ48aKkeBuU0e66PF5giNIJJUv09rb9ckxSB0MaINXeT1-jw0Be7fm5CxINUTBY-dGmOJlbKxq0L8W8lWYwcrnCWFn4N8JJjzRKvgejeEhXyH2UKjIDh1GDd1DyLBtinVz5oZ8-vDmUFCUqz5RRPBrJbC3IjH-CS9oorblPr3Oox=w800-no
 
That certainly does look nice. I have a hankering to stick my Raspberry Pi streamer in an Olive shoebox...if only I could find one (rarity value on a par with hens’ teeth :D ). OTOH I’ve got a spare NAXO lying around somewhere.........
 
That certainly does look nice. I have a hankering to stick my Raspberry Pi streamer in an Olive shoebox...if only I could find one (rarity value on a par with hens’ teeth :D ). OTOH I’ve got a spare NAXO lying around somewhere.........

Yeah, a Naxo might be shallower (is it?) but you don't really need a ton of room for lots of the DACs out there. And you could always box up the 'innards' including the original sled and fascia so you could revert it some day to sell.
 
This turned out so well that I'm tempted to take it to another level and try to make something that looks like a CB NAT but the tuner display would instead be a (green of course) dot matrix display. It could show track info or something. But the Chromecast Audio is so flexible with a phone that it might be a step backward.
 
Very nice indeed!
I had the same intention but with a different DAC, unfortunately I was unable to make that particular DAC fit in any practical kind of way :( .

Said case is now a PSU.
 
Last edited:
My photo reorganizing broke a bunch of my photo links on PFM so I wanted to re-add the photos that are missing from above.





 
BTW, I'm considering selling this (without the sleeve!) to make space and funds for something else. If anyone else has an empty half width sleeve and wants a very unique DAC to fit in with their CB/olive stack, let me know!
 


advertisement


Back
Top