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Naim Nap 110 power led Repair

M

Milspec1

Active Member
My first post on this forum ( been loads of help reading the many discussions. ) and this may not be in the right section. please let me know if it is not.
I am currently restoring a Naim Nap 110 and have already replaced all the caps and the last repair is the led for the power switch. I tried to remove the light and broke the green wire to the lamp. Upon inspection it looks more like a resistor that was covered in heat shrink ? I thought I read there was a resistor tied to the bulb or maybe I am confused ? Also does anyone know what size/ type of fastener is used to hold the knob on and do I need to remove it ?
 
Congratulations Milspec!!
You have mastered putting pictures on the website
Something other "more senior " members haven't managed to do for years !

Someone should be along to help you with your problem shortly...but in the mean time...welcome aboard
 
Hi there,
Welcome aboard.
The knob has a fine flat blade grub screw. Once loose the knob will pull off.
You can then release the led in it's holder and sort that out. The led is powered from the 24v supply designed to go out to connected pre amps, as far as I am aware. They just use a dropper resistor to limit current to get a suitable brightness from the led. I suggest stripping off the heatshrink to read the resistor value.
Good luck!
 
Just looked at a nac 42 that I am working on here. The resistor is 2.7k in this case. Gives around about 10mA, which is in the ball park.
 
Thank you sir. I tried to remove the heat shrink and it indeed was a resistor but it has deteriorated beyond legibility. I think I have a 2.7k 1w resistor I will give that a try.
 
Ok. I tried the 2.7k resistor and it lit for about second and than went out. Not sure if I need a larger resistor or if the bulb was just bad.
 
I’d recommend a resistor of the same value but a higher wattage rating, say 1 or 2 watts.

Might as well replace the LED whilst you’re at it.
 
I suspect you have burnt out the LED. I would replace the LED, then start with a much larger resistor. Perhaps 50K. If that's not bright enough, then you slowly work towards smaller ones.
 
Yep, replace the resistor and the led, bo are cheap and available everywhere.
Make sure to verify the polarity of the led and put a shrink wrap.
FYI : I didn’t put any resistor on one of my NAP 110 and it’s fine for me, brighter but I didn’t get blind yet.
 
Well Unfortunately,
I must have got something installed or reconnected wrong as the unit went up in flames on the right board. All of the green resistors smoked and failed terribly ? So back at it. This may be beyond my scope and I might need to seek professional help. For me and the amp hahaha
 
Milspec1 said:
Thank You sir. I like the way you think . I will shoot these guys an email and see what we can do.
Click to expand...
The thing I really like about these Avondale amp boards is that they don’t require any soldering to be fitted and can be installed by almost anyone rather easily and quickly.
 
For the record, the LED resistor in the 110, SNAPS, Hicap etc is a 3k3. Don't put it back under a rubber sleeve ;)
 
Thanks MJS. Would having the wrong value cause such a short ? Could it be one of the new Tants that I installed failed ? Any idea of the value of the large green resistors on that amp boards ?
 
If the green high wattage resistors are smoking then you have serious issues. It's nothing that can't be fixed but it will need a technician and test bench.
 
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