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Naim DIY Integrated Amp Shocker!

slapup

Your local friendly bobby
My recently finally completed Naim DIY Integrated Amp! Hope my findings will be encouragement for anyone else who wants to give it a go.

Take A Look!

It is the culmination of many months of ingenuity, stupidity, pink fish idea pilfering, and several bodged attempts along the way, that have finally come to fruition.

The idea behind it was to reduce as much superfluous circuitry and cabling in my SNAPS+32.5+160 system, whilst adding certain no-cost tweaks. The idea was not to have to spend a lot money on esoteric capacitor and resistor replacements, and after hearing the finished result I’m glad I don’t have to. I have achieved, taking away the cost of a few frazzled(!) buffer and amp boards in the process, a truly no-cost (and in-fact money saving) STONKING improvement in sound quality.

The journey was thus:

Using Neil McBride’s site I first of all did all his well-known tweaks to the 32.5 – namely a lot of board pulling. Out went the MC boards, buffer input and output boards, relay board, balance knob, mono/stereo switch. This left only the 321 line level gain boards. All these mods resulted in a much cleaner sound.

Next came my SNAPS 2. Dual reg’d that and completed the DIN mod which takes the output from the pre-amp directly to the power amp thereby bypassing the SNAPS and doing away with a length of cable in the signal path. Again using Neil’s site, read about him recommending mounting the regs inside the pre-amp box getting them as close as possible to the 321 boards. A thought thus occurred – as I was only using the 32.5 as a volume control with a bit of gain, why did I need it?

Hey this is easy! Why don’t I add a passive volume control to my NAP 160 (thankfully already serviced!), thus bypassing the need for a 32.5 and SNAPs and all that circuitry! Bonus! Ordered the vishay/dale stepped attenuator off Ebay for a bargain £35 delivered. Removed the front on/off switch from the 160, re-wired this. Flipped the front fascia around so that the resulting hole was the other side – getting me nearer to the signal input and reducing the wiring need. Replaced the 4-pin DIN on the 160 with a 5-pin to accept an input, and fitted the attenuator through the front hole, wiring it up to the 160 boards.

Voila! Absolutely bloody awful! Loss of top end detail, dynamics, involvement – totally flat, dull and uninteresting. After some Pink Fish questioning, surmised it was the passive pre idea at fault – just doesn’t work the Naim power amps (despite what some people say!)

Was coming around to this idea of a 1 box solution though – very neat I thought. What if I could mount the 321 boards and SNAPS inside the 160 box! Plenty of room in there. A bit of internal re-jigging meant that where the capacitors were I had a bolt hole to secure the SNAPS transformer. This all seemed perfect – could mount the SNAPS regs directly to the 321 boards, and minimise all the cabling – no SNAICs even.

The result is the picture you can see. In the end, I had to use of set of buffer boards instead of the 321 boards as they produced too much gain. The remaining tweaks involved the removal of the 27R resistor on the buffer boards on Neil’s site to improve timing and the fitting of a couple of Elna Stargets to bypass the big electros. Ooo, and not forgetting the final touch of a bit of a spray paint!

The result is a one-input integrated, which isn’t as debilitating as it sounds. I now use a tuner and my laptop occasional for internet radio and simply plug in their DIN in place of the CD one when required.

The resulting improvement in sound quality is simply phenomenal from my 3 box original set-up. Timing and detail retrieval is now simply amazing, bass is firm and bouncy. Everything sounds so natural.

When i was doing them the mods were a lot of time and effort, but this was because I was making a lot of it up as i went along, and I’ve learnt a lot. When listed now the mods don’t seem that many at all, and i'm sure i could do it all again in a day or two. What amazes me though is how easy it is and cheap to achieve tremendous improvements.

For instance, my younger brother was looking at an old 32.5,140 set-up. Could have done with a black SNAIC obviously. Again a CD user. My plan now is to simply obtain a 140, another attenuator and a pair of buffer boards. Much cheaper and with a bit of work much much better!

I realise I could go further with component changes, but as I said earlier this was a value for money modding exercise first and foremost. If it hadn’t brought the improvements in sound quality it had I might have considered going further – as it is though, I can honestly say that I am truly truly happy with the results and don’t feel the need to. Liberated at last!


Take A Look!
 
The essence of DIY! I'm sure you had a lot of fun along the way to get something that's unique and you're really pleased with.

I suspect it won't stop there though:D

Over to the nay-sayers...

Cheers,
 
Well done. I'm leaning towards the same idea myself, (this week anyway!)
I'm sure the reduction in signal path length and less soldered and mechanical joints more than make up for squeezing everything in one box.

Paul.
 
Good job done and a very interesting posting. This makes think if a well designed integrated amp can sound better than a pre/power combo.

Hon
 
Thanks for your comments guys. I forgot to mention i also snipped the diode eliminating the protection circuitry on the 160 which i think can be seen on the photo, which i took note of from the Avondale site. Again to no ill effects - hasn't blown up yet anyway. :)

I think what i've managed is to get as close as possible to having no pre-amp. A simple active buffer stage necessary to drive the input of the power amp only.

Hi-Fi is in incredibly over-priced hobby and it's nice to achieve something simple and cheap but sounding better than any integrated i've ever heard, that anyone who can hold a soldering iron can do.
 
Hi slap.

Any idea why the 321 boards gave you to much gain? If they were giving the right gain in your 32.5 why not now? Different pot?
From reading Neil and Les's site I thought removing the buffer stage was a "good thing".

Paul.
 
Hi Paul. When i was using the 32.5, the removal of the balance pot shot the volume up up quite bit. I can only presume therefore that the removal of all the other circuitry meant further removals of resistance along the way hence even greater volume. I could have used 321 boards, but it meant on the first notch of my stepped attenuator it was already too loud for late night dozing in bed listening.

If i was more techncally knowledged i'm sure it's possible to turn down the gain on the 321 boards by changing the resistors, but as i'm not i didn't. :)

As far as i am aware the buffer boards are just gain boards like the 321s but to a lesser degree, hence i used these and they worked a treat. I think their removal when using a 32.5 brings improvement for two reasons: any superfluous to requirement boards suck power from the power supply, and secondly as their additional gain isn't needed it's just additional circuitry in the signal path.
 
I see, presumably you didnt use any/or high enough value resistor when you removed the balance pot?
Can the regulator boards be mounted onto the 321's as you have done? Or is this when things went boom, a feeling I know well!!
It also seems from your picture that it all fits with room to spare. My own plans, (which have a habit of changing daily) are also for a "super integrated". I was thinking of using a DACT pre amp board as they are so small, (I have a 62 board but its so big) but I would prefer to keep it all Naim/Avondale based, and also the DACT neds a +/- power supply. I also need to provide power for phono boards although I will go the DIY prefix route for these.

Keep the posts coming as you perfect your design, (you know you want to!!!).

Paul.
 
Hmmm...disasters...god there have been so many! Think my major mistake was in completing most of the changes without a multimeter! Thanks to Les at Avondale for supplying me with one!

Think sending DC to my Epos ES14 and melting a bass driver was the most expensive (never did find out how i did that!). It's also easy to wreck boards by supplying DC to the wrong input (been through 1x321 and 1x324 pairs). It's also very easy to miss little blobs of solder that can fall on boards which results in the smell of burning on power up (these aren't my original 160 boards - groan). But hey, it's all in the spirit of diy! There were many times when i nearly gave up and chucked the whole lot in the bin in frustration - but the increasing improvements in sound quality i was getting meant i could never have gone back to a traditional set-up.

Regarding the resistor, no i didn't use one as i don't like to add anything to the signal path if i can get away without. The regs are fine mounted to the 321 boards and then the main boards - keeps everything mega short. The case of the old style 160 has SO much room it's untrue, as it only uses twin caps unlike the later ones with four. Great for modding.

I've heard good things about the DACT and i nearly went down that path myself. I stayed with the Naim as it's simply the only brand of hifi that's really ever interested me to listen to, and i was afraid i would loose or alter the Naimness by substituting components.

You could always forget about your turntable and mod an Arcam 5 ;) But that's another story!
 


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