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Naim cabling please help

FC united

pfm Member
Just been on holiday for a couple of weeks and mad as it sounds I take my system apart and hide it around the house.
Got back from holiday and set my system up again but no sound. Everything is lit as it should be.
Could anyone please tell me what I have done wrong from the diagram below?
Sorry if it's a bit rubbish and the wrong way around
dateposted-public
 
Tested the 152 XS in standard configuration - without the Teddycap?

Not yet Svein, just making sure I have the cables in the correct places first.
Everything is lighting up as it should I have tested the Avondales and they are working and checked Dins for broken pins up to now.
I get very confused with naim cabling especially with so many boxes.
Thanks for your reply
 
Be worth you taking a photo of the cable config once you've got it working.... for your records.
 
Are the cables from the two TC outlets the right way round, if it makes a difference, I assume they're both Snaics.
 
Your cabling diagram is correct.

The NAC isn't on mute, by any chance? :)

I would agree with Svein that your quickest first test would be to take the DualTeddyCap out of circuit (eliminating 1 signal carrying SNAIC5 in the process). You will need to replace the two link plugs on the NAC (the one with paddle on 'link 1', the other on 'link 2 or upgrade'), and move the SNAIC4 from Teddycap to NAC 'standard'.

If no joy, then you'll next want to test the SNAIC4* for continuity and the NAP for basic operation in isolation (more info available).

* The SNAIC4 could be 100% faulty (i.e. no continuity on any of the four conductors) and you'd still have lights on with the Teddycap in.

P.S. I'd also echo my own comments from the current 'Naim dead channel' thread:
As NAC inputs are nowadays programmable, restoring all settings to factory defaults may solve certain other control related issues. To reset, press and hold the remote handset disp key while the preamplifier is in program mode. Program mode is entered by pressing and holding prog (remote in preamplifier mode); the volume indicator will flash. The preamplifier will exit from program mode following the reset.
 
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I have had a NAC behave very oddly after a prolonged power down, and the reset described above needed to be done a couple of times.
 
p.s. I’ve been a Naim user for decades, but still use coloured stickers on the connectors to simplify re-cabling.
 
I use a dual teddycap with a NAC82 and I connect pre amp direct to power amp the Avondale way.
Now my memory's been jogged I recall that, of the 2 leads from teddycap to pre amp, only one carries signal from pre to teddycap - the other is power only, so if you connect the Naim way, pre to supply to power amp, you need to have the leads in the correct pre amp sockets or else the signal never gets out of the pre amp!
 
I use a dual teddycap with a NAC82 and I connect pre amp direct to power amp the Avondale way.
Now my memory's been jogged I recall that, of the 2 leads from teddycap to pre amp, only one carries signal from pre to teddycap - the other is power only, so if you connect the Naim way, pre to supply to power amp, you need to have the leads in the correct pre amp sockets or else the signal never gets out of the pre amp!

Peterm,
Do you notice an improvement in the sound doing it the Avondale way?
Would I be able to try it with my set up?
If so, how do you do it?
Thanks for the info regarding the dual teddy.
 
I'm not sure I could hear a difference, I just tried it because I was using a NAP250 - which doesn't have any pre amp supply ( and now I'm using an "Avondaled" NAP180, also with no pre amp supply).
I seem to remember talk of "special leads" to make sure you don't connect the power amp's 25 volt pre amp supply to somewhere it shouldn't go!
 
Glad to hear that you have it sorted.

BTW, the SNAICs are not directional, if you simply flipped the SNAICs round end to end, then powering the NAC down and back up once again likely unmuted the relays.
 
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I don't think he swapped them end for end but between the sockets on the rear of the pre.

Whilst not familiar with the 152 I believe it's like my 82 in the way the 2 HiCaps can be connected. The two 5 pin sockets on the pre-amp that connect 2 HiCaps both carry 2x 24v from supply to pre, but only one of them carries L+R signals out.
If using 2 HiCaps then the 4 pin lead from HiCap to power amp must be connected to "HiCap 1", the one connected to the socket carrying signal out. If it's connected to the other HiCap then there's no signal path from pre to power amp.
A similar situation exists with the dual teddycap, only one lead from the pre-amp carries signal through the power supply to the 4 pin socket to power amp, connect that one to the "HiCap2" non signal carrying socket on the pre and no signal reaches the power amp.
 
I don't think he swapped them end for end but between the sockets on the rear of the pre.

Whilst not familiar with the 152 I believe it's like my 82 in the way the 2 HiCaps can be connected. The two 5 pin sockets on the pre-amp that connect 2 HiCaps both carry 2x 24v from supply to pre, but only one of them carries L+R signals out.
If using 2 HiCaps then the 4 pin lead from HiCap to power amp must be connected to "HiCap 1", the one connected to the socket carrying signal out. If it's connected to the other HiCap then there's no signal path from pre to power amp.
A similar situation exists with the dual teddycap, only one lead from the pre-amp carries signal through the power supply to the 4 pin socket to power amp, connect that one to the "HiCap2" non signal carrying socket on the pre and no signal reaches the power amp.

Correct preterm, just swapped them over on the back of the teddy
 


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