advertisement


More advice and opinion please this time it's power.

NickofWimbledon

pfm Member
Experiments over the last year or so have given some useful results, and we have had lots of useful comments - thanks. So far…
  1. You can genuinely improve a good rack and/ or wall shelf without vast expense - but actual SQ improvements are small (even for the LP12) and very room-dependent and some are volume-dependent too.

  2. On a ‘light and rigid’ support, an LP12 is to me better with no base than with a Tramp. However, the SRM base is an improvement over no base and works well with the matching platform. Without the platform, and on a good wall shelf, I am not convinced that my LP12 with SRM base sounds materially better than a newer LP12 with Linn’s aluminium base - it is the SRM base and platform together that get my vote.

  3. For any who do not believe that all cables sound identical, Witch Hat to me beats Naim for sound and convenience (e.g. Morgana beating Hi-Line), at least in my room and system.

  4. My record cleaner is so effective that my Krystal looks good via microscope after well over 1200 hours and may do another year+. Don’t assume the max lifetime numbers suggested by some makers or sellers of cartridges apply to you.

  5. There is no material and consistent SQ difference between playing a CD, ripping and serving a CD and just using Qobuz - but there are plenty of albums where streams are clearly better/ worse than my CD.
I think that last thing to investigate will be power, an area that encourages me to expect twaddle and worse even more than mega-expensive interconnect cables.

My hi-fi is powered by a double-socket on the wall. One socket powers a 4-way Hydra from Grahams (so 4 kettle leads), and that powers Supercap for 52 and Superline, PS for CDS2, XPS2 for NDX2 and 250.

The other sockets has a Grahams-supplied 6-way power block. That powers the Lingo 4, Nakamichi tape deck, ethernet switch and a standard lamp.

First question, should I change that?

Given the quality of my kit (high) and of my house wiring (uninspiring), should I be organising all that radically differently? Can we easily beat the Grahams-supplied powerblock and Hydra in SQ?

Please bear in mind that answers that begin with a complete rewiring of my house and pulling all the wires out of the walls imply a lot more dedication that I have.

Second question, Powerlines (or rivals) instead of the old and basic Naim kettle leads?

I have previously assumed that there is no point having one or more Powerlines for electricity that has already been through this non-ideal route from street-to-powerblock. Is that probably fair, or should I (for example) be powering everything off the powerblock (discarding the Hydra) and should the cables from powerblock to Supercap, XPS2, XPS and 250 all be Powerlines? And what difference can that sort of cable make to a Lingo 4?

Third question - does anything else need doing? My exposure to WH has encouraged the view that perfect cable dressing on Hi-Lines et al may well make the SQ difference of Naim versus WH very small, suggesting that EMF issues from my bad dressing is a contributor to the unnoticed low-level mush that can get in the way of the music. Applying that to the ultra-obvious area of main cables suggests that I might need to think about shielding (and knot-avoidance) here too, but what else?

All suggestions and opinions gratefully received.
 
I put in a dedicated line to the hi-fi years ago and it did make a difference. It was running off a fuse in an old fuse box. I recently replaced the box with a new consumer unit and RCBMs and I can't hear any difference compared to the fuse.

I have tried a few different power cables and I can hear a difference. The fancy one I made with gold plugs and sheiled cable sounded the worst. Sucked the life out of the music.
 
Dedicated mains spur seemed an improvement to me but I think by far the best thing I did was install a separate socket for each component negating the need for any type of multi-way power block. This was done on a single spur off the dedicated one (daisy chained). All the kettle leads are naim/Linn from the box and they live under the racks away from interconnects. I am going to make up a custom kettle lead from components sourced direct from the manufacturer that are used by one of the well reviewed power cables (which one depends on how easy the bits are to source). When I’ve done that I’ll swap it between the units to see if I can hear anything good. Budget will be under £100. But this project will only happen after I’ve re-painted my motorbike helmet the same colour as my bike (you needed to know that :)).
 
So much depends on the quality of your electrical supply and voltage supplied as well as circuit. I inherited a supply of 253 volts and despite the experts! saying that the equipment adjusts the voltage( it does) it does not get close to a regenerated 230 volt supply. If you improve the quality of your supply you do not need to get sucked into super expensive cables.

Because we run our systems with fused 13amp plugs using a suitably rated fuse ( some use unfused plugs) that is a very weak point of the audio chain and I must confess that I laughed when some bright sparks said on here that fuses do not make a difference, they absolutely do and can provide an incredible improvement in sound quality.
 
Dedicated mains spur seemed an improvement to me but I think by far the best thing I did was install a separate socket for each component negating the need for any type of multi-way power block. This was done on a single spur off the dedicated one (daisy chained). All the kettle leads are naim/Linn from the box and they live under the racks away from interconnects. I am going to make up a custom kettle lead from components sourced direct from the manufacturer that are used by one of the well reviewed power cables (which one depends on how easy the bits are to source). When I’ve done that I’ll swap it between the units to see if I can hear anything good. Budget will be under £100. But this project will only happen after I’ve re-painted my motorbike helmet the same colour as my bike (you needed to know that :)).

If it's a red Ducati or a green Kawasaki, I can see that.
 
So much depends on the quality of your electrical supply and voltage supplied as well as circuit. I inherited a supply of 253 volts and despite the experts! saying that the equipment adjusts the voltage( it does) it does not get close to a regenerated 230 volt supply. If you improve the quality of your supply you do not need to get sucked into super expensive cables.

Because we run our systems with fused 13amp plugs using a suitably rated fuse ( some use unfused plugs) that is a very weak point of the audio chain and I must confess that I laughed when some bright sparks said on here that fuses do not make a difference, they absolutely do and can provide an incredible improvement in sound quality.

Thanks. At the risk of provoking ire from unbelievers, can you elaborate? What plugs and what fuses? How can the fuse matter?
 
Having denied power-side parts and pieces for years I recently came to hear and understand how superior mains isolation and shielding could have such an immediate and beneficial effect.

How indeed, your equipment if decently designed should proper filtration and regulation, nothing else needed.
Keith

If it's audible it then seems to me that "proper" wants for a working definition. Given that no circuit has infinite rejection or isolation, apparently in physical terms proper can never have such a definition...
 
If there is power supply breakthrough on the output of a device it will be visible in the measurements of course there shouldn’t be any just check out any measurement based site.
Keith
 
Thanks. At the risk of provoking ire from unbelievers, can you elaborate? What plugs and what fuses? How can the fuse matter?
The entry point into your system is via a fused cable which is designed to protect your cable, if you upgrade the fuse to include graphene ( I am not a technical person) which seems to provide enhancement to both the electrical supply and sound.

Fuses are not cheap which alienates the people who place total emphasis on what the book says as opposed to me and many others who are interested in sound.. increased musicality, depth and detail.

Cables are so weak that the improvements are greater than with internal fuses although they also add improvements..

Not interested in the opinions of knowall's who tend to stifle debate and often add rudeness because their parents failed them. Ignore system is your friend.
Hifi tuning fuses offer improvement but to me the Synergistic purple is a wonderful fuse, worth the high cost to try one and I think they are returnable.

The only caveat is that although they are brilliant in my system, Jadis, TW acustics ,lyra I cannot comment on other peoples system. A regenerator and fuse upgrades in my system create a performance I could only dream of.
 
If there is power supply breakthrough on the output of a device it will be visible in the measurements of course there shouldn’t be any just check out any measurement based site.
Keith

Thanks Keith,

As one of the most sceptical and measurement-focused here, would you say that the whole exercise is pointless, in that if my kit works properly and gets sufficient electricity to work, nothing else matters?
 
Having denied power-side parts and pieces for years I recently came to hear and understand how superior mains isolation and shielding could have such an immediate and beneficial effect.



If it's audible it then seems to me that "proper" wants for a working definition. Given that no circuit has infinite rejection or isolation, apparently in physical terms proper can never have such a definition...

As you know, I have a lot of sympathy with this myself, but am trying to get info without diverting into a 'vigorous' mass debate on whether we should use ears or meters to judge what we hear, whether literally all cables sound equally good, whether ASR is the last word in good science, or whatever.
 
The entry point into your system is via a fused cable which is designed to protect your cable, if you upgrade the fuse to include graphene ( I am not a technical person) which seems to provide enhancement to both the electrical supply and sound.

Fuses are not cheap which alienates the people who place total emphasis on what the book says as opposed to me and many others who are interested in sound.. increased musicality, depth and detail.

Cables are so weak that the improvements are greater than with internal fuses although they also add improvements..

Not interested in the opinions of knowall's who tend to stifle debate and often add rudeness because their parents failed them. Ignore system is your friend.
Hifi tuning fuses offer improvement but to me the Synergistic purple is a wonderful fuse, worth the high cost to try one and I think they are returnable.

The only caveat is that although they are brilliant in my system, Jadis, TW acustics ,lyra I cannot comment on other peoples system. A regenerator and fuse upgrades in my system create a performance I could only dream of.
Wow, that’s pretty rude of you.
You are correct though that the ignore button is your friend.
 
Thanks Keith,

As one of the most sceptical and measurement-focused here, would you say that the whole exercise is pointless, in that if my kit works properly and gets sufficient electricity to work, nothing else matters?
Yes, there is always the chance you have some poorly engineered equipment but if you look over at the number of components tested at the other place very few suffer and even if they do it is usually beneath the threshold of audibility.
Keith
 
As you know, I have a lot of sympathy with this myself, but am trying to get info without diverting into a 'vigorous' mass debate on whether we should use ears or meters to judge what we hear, whether literally all cables sound equally good, whether ASR is the last word in good science, or whatever.
I doubt information will be plentiful where by necessity only opinion exists.

Further, as we saw in another thread, the "objective" argument is so oddly-formed in its declarations - consider the never-defined "proper" and now, the "poorly-engineered" component, also proffered without an objective evaluation - that all it can be is sighted bias, interpretation, and opinion.

Meanwhile the literally objective view is to try it and see.

This being audio somehow that last notion is strictly taboo, somehow. Something about ears not hearing, memory not existing, minds being terribly weak, and presumably, there being no allowable joy in that Mudville...
 
Dedicated mains spur seemed an improvement to me but I think by far the best thing I did was install a separate socket for each component...

Those two kinda goes hand in hand. I've got six un-switched Crabtree sockets on mine. Now could do with adding a couple more.
 


advertisement


Back
Top