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Maple and Walnut Heaven

cutting42

Arrived at B4 Hacker Ergo
Hello my loudspeaker chums. Being a serious glutton for punishment and having only just (finally) finished my Ergo IIIR loudspeaker build that took 9 years pretty much; I got talked into building a pair of cabs for another pfm'r. I did warn him it might take a while!

Rest assured it is not another Ergo IIIR, not even I would do that to myself. This time it is make a fancy cabinet for an existing speaker design which is a known quantity. This time I am not using veneers but solid wood with all the challenges of designing to account for movement. We have been inspired by an existing cab but put some design ideas of the pfm'r into it as well to make it our own.

I am very excited to be building in solid wood and as per the title we have selected Maple and Walnut for the cabinet. Sketchup design:

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The sawn maple planks as purchased with walnut 3mm strips

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After a few weeks settling in the workshop environment I stared marking out the flaws in the planks and working out the cutting plan. The idea is to make up the boards for the whole cab as a sandwich of maple and walnut. To save effort, the plan is to glue up a long piece that can do the sides, top and bottom, get it to dimension and once glued up then cut into smaller pieces to the construction. A similar idea for the front and rear panels.

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All the cutting down is now done, roughly 5mm oversize to allow movemetn before we get into accurate planing, thicknessing.

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I used some offcuts to tune up the Planer/Thicknesser and get it accurate.

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Now the wood has been cut roughly I need to let it stabilise some more as you release tensions in the wood once it has been sawn. Will see if I can get anything done next week.
 
This time it is make a fancy cabinet for an existing speaker design which is a known quantity.
You'll need to spill the beans on which existing design you'll be accommodating. I like the Sonus faber-alike wooden staves top, sides and bottom, but I'd exercise caution on using solid timber for the baffles. They won't have much latitude for movement, if bonded solidly to the cabinet.

OTOH, I think E-IX would look fabulous finished in leather, maple and walnut.
 
You'll need to spill the beans on which existing design you'll be accommodating. I like the Sonus faber-alike wooden staves top, sides and bottom, but I'd exercise caution on using solid timber for the baffles. They won't have much latitude for movement, if bonded solidly to the cabinet.

OTOH, I think E-IX would look fabulous finished in leather, maple and walnut.


I will leave any bean spilling to the other pfm'r if they choose to disclose themselves ;-)

Regarding the baffles, yes there has been much discussion over aesthetics vs practicalities of wood movement. The baffles are a massive 48mm thick and will be solid maple. They will be securely glued in the centre but only sealed towards the edges with a mechanical fixing to allow for any movement but keep them solid. One of the inspirations to the design has the whole thing glued up tight with cross grains as well which surprised me. It might be that they season it, glue up and then further season before the finishing.
 
Hmmmm, looking good. Can I draw on your superior knowledge and ask what you like to treat your finished walnut with? I’m recently in possession of some walnut veneered speakers and they are dryer than Jack Dee. I asked about it on another forum and walnut or hemp oil seems to be the best thing. Contrary to what I previously thought, wax seems to be a bad idea.
 
As James says, Danish oil is great stuff. Put on several light coats, knocking back with very fine wire wool each coat. Try to get around 5 coats on and it will really shine. I sometimes use a commercial oil called Osmo Polyx oil which is designed as a floor oil so very robust but it is pricey. You can get just as good results with Danish and it is much cheaper, just a little slower to dry.

I usually use clean cloth to apply and then wipe the excess off with a clean cloth to not build up too deep a coat and so each coat can dry nicely. You can brush on for the first coat but after that it is better to use a cloth.

Wax is unnecessary.
 
Danish oil is a very easy finish to apply, you can use a scouring pad to apply and smooth the finish for a silky smooth surface, one word of warning the cloths used can spontaneously combust so spread them out to dry or burn them.

Pete
 
Big day in the workshop today. Spent the day making all the pieces square and to size using the planer thicknesser. Very repetitive but satisfying and a bit of technique required to get the boards flat and square.

You start by getting one flat side using the planer function. You need to move the wood firmly over the cutter but not bend it or apply too much force on an edge. A few of the boards had a slight bow so I started with the bow upwards like a very low bridge and use the planer to take the ends off first and repeat until the side is flat.

Next stage is hold the flat side to the 90 deg fence and let the cutter block square the first edge, again take multiple passes depending on how non square it is.

Once you have a flat side and a perfect 90 deg edge, you can put the machine into thicknesser mode and this allows you to use the flat side to run on the baseplate and the cutter makes the opposing side perfectly parallel. Repeat to get to the required thickness and then repeat for the edges.

Voila, one piece of squared and sized timber, repeat 32 times. Couple of oopsies requiring remedial action another day but I needed a beer at 7 and machines stay off after beer.

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Lovely cabinet design, like a cross between Sonus Faber & Diapason, I'm very much looking forward to seeing the finished results.
 
loving a bit of maple here as well. Love watching your builds as well, but you need to slow down, you might break a record otherwise !
 


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