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Mana Isobarik Stand

Thanks for all of this

I can appear knowledgeable when I talk to the prospective makers - and also save expensive mistakes
 
I am trying, It's the non standard size of the ATC stages that people find hardest to cope with. All the stages *must* look the same...

Anyway I don't quite know how it all goes together... Perhaps you can help the OP
 
I think its more guidance on how to set it up, what order of the bolts behind or in front (I see so many variations it confuses me), the correct torque for nut nipping and all the other mystical stuff that you do that seems to make it work its mojo... There is I recall a board tapping vs lifting strategy and a thing you do with the glass I no longer know how to do. It is one of the bits I am not as absolutely sure about as I once was).

tl;dr not my skillset
 
mikemusic said:
At a nice price would be good.
When I have some time I'm going to find a metal basher and have some made
Click to expand...

Mike,

I also have a load (up to 12 of them) of Mana soundstages that I am going to sell off and can do so now if you are interested. I have changed my amps to much smaller ones so the stack under my previous amps has become redundant.

Ian
 
Ian

Thanks.
Being a cheapskate I was going for the option of making them to save a load of money so I think you would do better selling to others
Also need to work out how many I want and some bigger ones for my slightly oversize rack.
If a few of us get together maybe a supplier could make up a lot and I assume the unit price will reduce massively

Mike
 
Early Mana speaker stands were more stylish.

1hifi_1954_00.preview.jpg
 
Ah, the Swindon edition, very rare.

Unlike the brisket, boiled the double toasted so nary a drop of cattle blood remains amidst the Englishman's favoured gristle.
 
Bill Colledge said:
Did Mana sound stages/bases intended for use under speakers have glass or laminate shelves?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

In multi-layer installations the top layer was sometimes glass but generally the laminated boards were used in top layer and always used in lower layers.
 
JW told me to bolt a drilled glass sheet to the base of the speakers via the spike threads as a sort of plinth which was then supported on the upward-facing spikes of the Soundbase. I did this with my Totem arros and seemed OK - it certainly helped their stability. Spike adjustment/Set-up was done with a spare glass sheet and then once all four were locked you removed the sheet and the speaker was placed on the spikes Anything bigger and heavier, dunno. In the end it was too much farting about. I´ve still got some Soundbases without balanced boards. Maybe I´ll put them under my heybrook HBS1 stands to see if they do anything special. At least they´ll match looks-wise.
 
Fox said:
Ah, the Swindon edition, very rare.

Unlike the brisket, boiled the double toasted so nary a drop of cattle blood remains amidst the Englishman's favoured gristle.
Click to expand...

are you referring to the tart in the picture? :cool:
 
I’ve been in contact with the company mentioned at start of this thread to get some boards made up so I can configure my Mana racks as needed.
Can anyone suggest what the original spec would have been. I have a choice between

18mm MDF Fundamentals Black shell 2 sides all edges.
These are laminate faced boards, a Formica type material bonded to MDF, much harder wearing.

alternatively they can also provide
Melamine Faced Chipboard (MFC) not as hard wearing but if there is no wear & tear you
would probably get away with it.
And it’s 50% of the price Of the above.

I’m thinking the hardest laminate isn’t going to prevent a mana spike weighed down by a rack of NAP250s penetrating it and once assembled actual wear & tear will be minimal to none, so should I just go with the cheapest option.
Would really like to know what the oem spec was if anyone can help.
 
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