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LP12 Motor @ 7o’clock

I suppose that would also depend on the floor and the particular stand you were using. A heavy coupled Mana stand would not be ideal.

Heavy, resonant and doesn't help on wobbly floors. On the face of it Mana should be hopeless!
 
But doesn't sound as good so who wants that eh? :0)
Well footfall is only an issue for most when stomping across the room. For me, a five tier amp stand for my LP12 was a non-starter on my suspended wood floor. It works fine on a concrete floor in the basement.

Way off topic but I found this site to be interesting as I have in the last few years started using stainless steel under all my sources and loudspeakers.

http://starsoundtechnologies.com/liveVibeDetails2.php?THE-PROVING-GROUNDS-3

The thread starter has some interesting points throughout this thread.

https://www.whatsbestforum.com/thre...-products-still-considered-accessories.30911/
 
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Well footfall is only an issue for most when stomping across the room. For me, a five tier amp stand for my LP12 was a non-starter on my suspended wood floor. It works fine on a concrete floor in the basement.

I had the same problem and resorted to a Mana wallshelf to get the Turntable away from all the energy in the floorboards and the echo box beneath.

Way off topic but I found this site to be interesting as I have in the last few years started using stainless steel under all my sources and loudspeakers.

http://starsoundtechnologies.com/liveVibeDetails2.php?THE-PROVING-GROUNDS-3

The thread starter has some interesting points throughout this thread.

https://www.whatsbestforum.com/thre...-products-still-considered-accessories.30911/
Thanks for the links.

That was along the lines of how I thought that Mana worked, but not completely. I am now having another think about this as these stands etc look interesting.

When I had Neat Ultimatum XLS on Mana stands built for them and many Soundstages underneath you feel less ringing / energy as you went down the stack.
 
The thread starter in the other link developed a stand a decade ago that clamps the gear to the stand. I found another thread on the forum where he shows the stand and explains more about it. It’s interesting that JW now has a support that clamps to the side of the hifi component. I like the idea of metal in contact with the case vs rubber feet in contact with glass.

https://adriancowderoy.com/the-mana-acoustics-clamp-customer-review/
 
I was thinking that the motor is the thing vibrating the most in an LP12. The motor is connected to the top plated using metal screws and washers. The top plate is fastened firmly to the plinth. I imagine those vibrations get passed to the plinth to some extent as folks have mentioned different species of wood plinths sounding better than others.

What I have done is to modify a solid Linn baseboard by bolting 4 metal cones to the bottom plate corners replacing the rubber feet. Fastening the bottom plate firmly to the plinth using the 10 screw holes in the plinth couples the bottom plate and allows the vibrations from the motor somewhere to escape. The cones are placed on a Symposium platform that has a stainless steel top and bottom with a foam and wood center that give the vibrations somewhere to efficiently go.

Tangerine Audio makes a metal plinth that I was thinking might be better as the vibrations would more efficiently pass through metal than wood.
 
I imagine those vibrations get passed to the plinth to some extent as folks have mentioned different species of wood plinths sounding better than others.

The plinth is a major part of the structure of the deck. It is not only made of a resonant material but it is the only thing connecting the working chassis of the deck to the surface the deck is sitting on. If you can accept that different top-plates sound different and different support surfaces can sound different, which they do, you have to concede that different plinths can sound different too.

What I have done is to modify a solid Linn baseboard by bolting 4 metal cones to the bottom plate corners replacing the rubber feet.

The base board is there for safety reasons, and to make the deck look 'finished'. It doesn't serve performance and does in fact make the deck sound worse. Linn can't admit this as they can't sell or advocate the deck without one but, if safety considerations allow it, the best thing you can do is to remove the thing altogether.

I'm sure a metal plinth will sound different but will it sound like an LP12? Not sure about that.
 
I ran my deck on Mana with the supplied bumpons for years before moving on to my current setup which I feel moved the deck in a positive direction. It was after installing a Khan top plate and some Symposium products to my system that got me thinking…
 
The base board is there for safety reasons, and to make the deck look 'finished'. It doesn't serve performance and does in fact make the deck sound worse. Linn can't admit this as they can't sell or advocate the deck without one but, if safety considerations allow it, the best thing you can do is to remove the thing altogether.

I'm sure a metal plinth will sound different but will it sound like an LP12? Not sure about that.[/QUOTE]

I remember years ago around 1986 I wanted to listen to a Asaka on my LP12 Ittok and my dealer kindly brought up theirs for a home dem for a week.Thought their LP12 sounded fabulous and brought a new Asaka for mine.
One thing I did notice with the dealers there was no baseboard on it and they where Linn dealers !
When mine arrived with the Asaka fitted.I was slightly disappointed as their deck did bass lines better.I did think maybe the cartridge needed more running in.But after a lot more hours it still didn't sound as good as theirs.
I raised it with them and they said remove the baseboard.Which I did and the magic came back.That was my first LP12 and the other 2 I have had,I always removed the baseboard.
To my ears the sound just opens out more.
Only my observation .
 
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The base board is there for safety reasons, and to make the deck look 'finished'. It doesn't serve performance and does in fact make the deck sound worse. Linn can't admit this as they can't sell or advocate the deck without one but, if safety considerations allow it, the best thing you can do is to remove the thing altogether.

I'm sure a metal plinth will sound different but will it sound like an LP12? Not sure about that.

I remember years ago around 1986 I wanted to listen to a Asaka on my LP12 Ittok and my dealer kindly brought up theirs for a home dem for a week.Thought their LP12 sounded fabulous and brought a new Asaka for mine.
One thing I did notice with the dealers there was no baseboard on it and they where Linn dealers !
When mine arrived with the Asaka fitted.I was slightly disappointed as their deck did bass lines better.I did think maybe the cartridge needed more running in.But after a lot more hours it still didn't sound as good as theirs.
I raised it with them and they said remove the baseboard.Which I did and the magic came back.That was my first LP12 and the other 2 I have had I always removed the baseboard.
To my ears the sound just opens out more.
Only my observation .

I assume you had the 1986 stock baseboard. The newer solid baseboard is much better and held on with ten screws.
 
The tangerine stiletto retains all the qualities of the LP12 but builds on them substantially.

Tunes are easier to follow, rhythmically it gets better punctuated and strands that you didn’t previously notice are now locked together with rock solid timing.

It also cleans up the top end and allows great insight into cymbal work that the unstilettoed deck only hints at.

Im a big fan!
 
One thing I did notice with the dealers there was no baseboard on it and they where Linn dealers !

The first time I took my deck to a Linn dealer for servicing, late eighties I guess, I remember them laughing and saying 'Haven't seen a baseboard in ages!'.

It doesn't matter how good the new ones are, they still won't be as good as no baseboard.
 
The first time I took my deck to a Linn dealer for servicing, late eighties I guess, I remember them laughing and saying 'Haven't seen a baseboard in ages!'.

It doesn't matter how good the new ones are, they still won't be as good as no baseboard.
I don’t know how you would know unless you tried one.
 
I don’t know how you would know unless you tried one.

I guess that's a fair comment but I don't see why it might be better?

It doesn't matter how non-resonant it is, it'll still be more resonant than nothing at all. It still has more mass than nothing at all. It's still going to reflect more sound inside the box than nothing at all.

Linn have to fit one so it makes sense that they try to improve it but it doesn't follow that a better one will be better than no baseboard. And they use it for attaching things to because...it has to be there anyway so why not make use of it.

And they can charge you for a fancy baseboard. Hard to charge hundreds of pounds for nothing at all! Even Linn are not that good. Yet.
 
I made a baseboard for mine from black acrylic. I needed something substantial to fix the new feet to. I also cut several large holes in the acrylic and modified the wall shelf so I could tweak the suspension without all the hassle. I honestly can't say it made the deck sound any different but it was something to show the lads :cool:
 
Someone mentioned that JW/Mana was on Instagram and I found a photo of a clamp on a LP12. I’ll contact John, but anyone know much about this? I’m wondering if the plinth contacts the frame or is just held floating in place with the four clamps on the side.
 
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I’ll contact John, but anyone know much about this?

Yes. It's called the Clamp. I have one here. I got to try on my CD player. Yes, it works.

Each Clamp is made to suit the size of the component it will hold. The one I have is for the LP12, it just happens to be the right size for the CD player too. Four spikes fit against the sides, you can see two in that picture, and there are two underneath. One just behind the logo and another at the back.

Yes, fitting it is pretty difficult! Four metal disks with dimples in the middle are supplied which you can use between the side spikes and the box to stop the spikes damaging the case. In the picture the spikes are clearly going into the plinth!
 
Have you tried it on your LP12? Does the bottom of the plinth rest on the frame?
 


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