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Linn Sondek LP12 : Purpose built, or not and to what Spec ?

I think the important part, is to make sure that whatever plinth you choose, that it has the corner bracing.

Any new plinth will do. If you have an old plinth without the large corner braces it's at least forty years old so if it's still straight and tight today it's probably going to stay that way. Sonically, I don't think it makes any difference.

You can still get fluted plinths. There are a few aftermarket options and Linn still do them occasionally, I have one. It might be an option on the plinths I'm sorting out but I'm wary of it. Lots of cuts and if you get a chip the plinth is scrap.
 
Beautiful quarter swan oak plinth you've chosen.. Such a shame the lovely medullary rays seen on both side sections are absent from the top of front piece of oak.

Funnily enough Peter had no new ones out , so he unboxed my one and said oh, that looks great, I had a quick glimpse without comparing other plinths and went for it.

Looking at it from the side view sitting down , the sides of the plinth actually blend well from the front to the side, so Linn have chosen the pieces of wood quite carefully.
 
think the important part, is to make sure that whatever plinth you choose, that it has the corner bracing.
I too visited Peter at Cymbiosis, and was impressed by his knowledge and attention to detail. I have a lasting memory of him discarding my old screws with contempt!
Had my old non-corner braced fluted afromosia, replaced with a flat Linn walnut plinth. I still think the classic Linn should have a fluted plinth, and still hanker after a return to that look, and could do so, but my walnut has a nice individual grain, and I took my time to pick it, so will probably stick with what I've got!
System is the best its ever sounded at the moment. latest tweak was a change of interconnect. Incredible how seemingly small changes can contribute to improving a system as a whole, and similarly, how bad choices can unbalance a system.

Actually what surprised me was the the phono wire from the Linn look so cheap. I didn’t expect that - and had I known this beforehand , I might have asked for a some better phone wires. But knowing Peter, he would have told me to stopped worrying and just enjoy what I was getting. He was very direct in his comments sometimes , but I liked his no nonsense approach.
 
Great reading how the demo went and how you went through the options! Would be good to see some pics of the new deck if possible?
 
Great reading how the demo went and how you went through the options! Would be good to see some pics of the new deck if possible?

Thanks - and to be clear I was helped “ to become dangerous in my thought processes” - through expert input here and the expertise of Peter @ Cymbiosis.

A picture of the deck can be found on page 12, one page back.
 
Actually what surprised me was the the phono wire from the Linn look so cheap. I didn’t expect that..

The phono cables are part of the arm, which is your old one! He couldn't have changed them as Rega phono cables are hard-wired to the arm. Linn cables plug in.

You can have those cables replaced by having the arm rewired but personally I'd just bide time until you can buy a better arm.
 
The phono cables are part of the arm, which is your old one! He couldn't have changed them as Rega phono cables are hard-wired to the arm. Linn cables plug in.

You can have those cables replaced by having the arm rewired but personally I'd just bide time until you can buy a better arm.

Haha & thanks - shows I have a lot to learn.
 
Any new plinth will do. If you have an old plinth without the large corner braces it's at least forty years old so if it's still straight and tight today it's probably going to stay that way. Sonically, I don't think it makes any difference.
The latest top plate and some after-market options require the corner brace to couple the motor more tightly to the plinth. It makes an audible difference. But too much tension also kills the groove.
 
The latest top plate and some after-market options require the corner brace to couple the motor more tightly to the plinth.

If you want to do that with an old plinth it's very easy. You just glue a corner brace to the underside of the top-plate support straps. You can do the same to the switch corner. Doubt it'll make any difference but if it makes you feel better? ;0)
 
I did similar, before I learned to "dress" the top plate properly so it fits correctly without rattles! Pete Swain's set up guide is invaluable for LP12 set-up & maintenance.

It's available via his Cymbiosis website. You'd do well to study it highfell.

I would not worry too much about the RB250's output cables, they're similar to Linn's early phono leads - cheap looking, grey & plasticky.
 
Thanks - and to be clear I was helped “ to become dangerous in my thought processes” - through expert input here and the expertise of Peter @ Cymbiosis.

A picture of the deck can be found on page 12, one page back.

Many thanks - completely missed the pic somehow - the deck looks fabulous!
 


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