Linn Kanns modification?

[peckhaminterior]

I've just bought some Linn Kanns and wanted to take them apart to do some mods. However, I notice that the speakers are nearly impenetrable and are glued together with silicon glue or something equally strong.

Has anyone modded these speakers and have any suggestions as to 1. how to get through the glue and 2. what mods have worked well.

Thanks all,



Charlie

 

[prowla]

I think you have to take out the speakers and work from the front.

 

[jonnoshore]

worth seaching the old forum if it is still available...

Baffle cutting is one, updated tweeters, crossover tweaks etc etc...

 

[prowla]

Somebody is selling some on ebay at the moment with the baffles removed, if you want to see what they look like (eg. where to prise off).

 

[jonnoshore]

There is a black pair with the grills removed.

Removing the baffle step is getting rid of the outer 'square edge' which will create a sharp edge for noise to diffract from.

 

[James]

John,

Removing the baffle step is getting rid of the outer 'square edge' which will create a sharp edge for noise to diffract from.

Baffle step is the progressive attenuation of perceived amplitude as frequency drops from a 2 pi radiation to 4 pi radiation. This baffle step frequency is entirely dependent on the size of the baffle. The bigger it is, the lower the frequency attenuation occurs. For a true free-space loudspeaker, the attenuation is 6dB, which generally means a 90dB/w pair of drivers (midbass and tweet) will sound fairly bass light and forward. Hence, most loudspeakers have L-Pads to reduce the tweeter output to match. In a boundary design such as Kans, the baffle step is much less and may be close to 0dB, although proximity to the wall brings other diffractive anomalies you allude to. In most real rooms and for most free-space loudspeakers, the baffle step correction required is generally between 2 - 4 dB.

Baffle edge diffraction is altogether a different problem.

James